Transylvania - Sinaia

The “Land Beyond the Forest” lends an air of mystery and adventure. Such is the English translation of the Latin word Transylvania, a magnificent mountainous region in Romania that in modern times has been closely associated with the fictional character Dracula and the legendary warlord Vlad Dracula otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler.

Occupying nearly 42% of Romania’s total surface, the region is hugged by the Carpathian Mountains (“the Carpathians”) to the east and south and the Apuseni Mountains to the west. At the centre is the Transylvanian Plateau made up of a network of valleys, canyons, and small mountain ranges.

Occupied by Dacians, Romans, Huns, Slavs and Bulgars, until just after the end of the first millennium AD Transylvania became part of the Kingdom of Hungary and then the subsequent Austro-Hungarian Empire for the next 900 years. Following the end of WW1 and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Transylvania was transferred to Romania.

The region is populated by a mix of Romanians, Hungarians, and German Saxons. This cultural diversity beautifully shows up in the well-preserved Gothic architecture, the Saxon fortified towns, traditional folk costumes, and its finger-licking good food.

I am currently in Sinaia, a mountain resort town that is located in the historic region of Wallachia, south of Transylvania. Wallachia, referred to as Muntenia by Romanians, was a region that was often at war either with the Ottomans to the south or Hungarians to the north. It continued this way until the late-19th century when Wallachia together with Moldavia, a vassal principality in the northeast, joined to become the Kingdom of Romania with King Carol I, a member of a German royal dynasty, as the first monarch to rule.

King Carol commissioned the construction of Peleş Castle, a summer residence in the north of Sinaia on an extant medieval route linking Wallachia with Transylvania. Built at the end of the 19th century the castle has a Neo-Renaissance and Gothic Revival architecture. Completed with more than 170 rooms, it is a beautiful structure of spires, wood panelling, a clock tower and highly detailed frescoes. The grounds are filled with terraced gardens, niches filled with statues, fountains, grand lion statues standing guard and more.

Whilst outside is just stunning, the inside is an absolute visual feast. Spectacular carvings, walnut panelling, themed rooms, gilding on walls and doors, sumptuous velvet seating and curios abound all around. The central atrium was covered with a large stained-glass ceiling allowing natural light to filter through. Medieval weapons adorned the walls where I recognised the curved scimitar swords of the Ottomans, 16th century muskets, battle-axes and various daggers and swords. Everywhere I turned there was something to study or admire.

Filled with all the wonderful art and architecture, I stepped outside and took in the crisp, clean air of the Bucegi Mountains. As the castle proudly sat on a hill surrounded by dense forestry, I imagined this was a quiet getaway for the family from their royal duties.

Taking a stroll, I visited the nearby Pelişor castle the King built at the turn of the 20th century for his nephew, Ferdinand I, heir to the throne, and his wife, Maria. Much smaller in size, the Art Nouveau castle is famous for the Golden Room that is decorated floor to ceiling in golden leaves.

Passing by King Carol’s towering statue at the main entrance, I head out of the estate and towards the city of Braşov.


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