It's easy to become overwhelmed by the size of Beijing. First of all, it is a sprawling megacity with a population exceeding 20 million. Second, navigating it can be daunting for the uninitiated like me. But here I am, undeterred by the city's vastness and determined to discover its many wonders, none more stark than the juxtaposition of its modern skyscrapers towering over ancient sites.
Beijing is a very old city, more than 3000 years old, and it is widely believed to be one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. The earliest record is from its pre-imperial era when the ancient states of Ji and Yan established the City of Ji as the region's capital during the Warring States period (475-221 BC). This marked the city's beginnings.
Throughout China's history, Beijing served as a capital during different periods. Kublai Khan's establishment of Dadu (one of its earlier names) as the capital during the Yuan dynasty (1270-1368) denoted the first time all of China was ruled from Beijing. Since 1279, except for two intervals, Beijing has continuously remained China's capital, with its longest uninterrupted period spanning from 1421 during the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty in 1912.
Encompassing several centuries, Beijing has evolved into a cultural treasure trove featuring many museums, iconic landmarks, and traditional performing arts such as the Peking Opera and Chinese acrobatics. Of particular note is Beijing's distinction for being the first city in the world to have hosted both the Summer and Winter Olympics.
Beijing's cultural landscape is so incredibly rich and varied that it boasts seven World Heritage Sites, of which I plan to visit four: the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, the Temple of Heaven and the Ming Tombs.
To begin my journey, I ventured beyond the city's centre to the foothills of Tianshou Mountain. Here, nestled in a carefully chosen landscape, lies the Ming Tombs, a complex of traditional buildings that serve as the final resting place for 13 of the 16 Ming Dynasty emperors. The remaining three found their resting place elsewhere; one vanished without a trace.
Among the tombs, the first to stand was Changling (“Forever Tomb”). It was constructed in 1409 by Zhu Di, Yongle Emperor, the third emperor of the Ming dynasty. As the oldest and largest in the complex, Changling set the tone for the others that followed, each varying in size. Dingling Tomb is the only one excavated with its burial chamber open to visitors.
Zhu Di's choice for this location was strategic. He wanted a place to construct a grand mausoleum befitting an emperor's palace in the afterlife. He adhered to Feng Shui principles, setting the complex in a serene valley surrounded by mountains near a flowing river. It also harmonised with Taoist ideals of unity between nature and humankind. Subsequently, it became the designated imperial mausoleum complex, witnessing the construction of tombs for the twelve succeeding Ming emperors over the next 230 years.
The entrance to the complex is via the imposing Great Red Gate. Painted red, the gate has three grand arches. During the Ming era, the gates were sealed, and guards posted, restricting access to the general public. Even emperors followed certain protocols when entering these sacred grounds.
Once inside the "Sacred Way", a path lined with statues of animals and officials leads to Changling Tomb and the grounds beyond. Taking my time to stroll through here, I enjoy the quietness and solitude and wonder how many Ming emperors were directly involved in constructing the famous Great Wall of China, just north of the Ming Tombs.
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