Estrada Real - Tiradentes

Tiradentes is over 300 years old and like most of the villages and cities on this route, sprung up as a result of the mining industry during the colonial era. Elevated to city level in 1718, it was originally named Vila de São José do Rio das Mortes. The town was renamed Tiradentes, after the failed conspiracy of 1789 known as Inconfidência Mineira (Minas Gerais Conspiracy).

Tiradentes was the leader of the conspiracy. He was born in a nearby village as Joaquim José da Silva Xavier and trained as a pharmacist and dentist. Because of his dental profession he was nicknamed Tiradentes (meaning tooth puller).

Tiradentes became dissatisfied with the state's continual poverty. The decline in gold production put a lot of pressure on the state to fulfil the quota demanded by the crown. Then he met José Alvares Maciel, who had just returned from England, where he had seen Britain's industrial progress. Inspired by the idea of freedom and progress, a group of freedom aspirants was formed. Membership consisted of businessmen, public servants and professional writers. Together they spread their ideas of freedom and independence among the people with the intent to take to the streets in Ouro Preto and declare Brazil as a republic.

The plot was exposed by an insider who traded the information on the conspiracy for a tax waiver. The group was arrested and tried over a period of three years. Tiradentes, who claimed full responsibility for the conspiracy, was sentenced to death and publicly hanged.

In 1889 Brazil became a republic and a national holiday was proclaimed on the anniversary of Tiradentes’ death. Revered as a national hero, his moniker has been used in public squares, streets and includes the 11th Infantry Battalion Mountain Regiment Tiradentes, an army unit specialising in difficult mountainous terrain.

On a lighter note, Tiradentes is home to a narrow-gauge railway track that was part of the late 19th century Minas Gerais railway networks. When large parts of the railroad were closed and tracks removed, a stretch of 8mi (13km) was retained to be used for tourism. Using steam locomotives, the railway operates between Tiradentes and São João Del Rei, Brazil’s largest railway museum.

Tiradentes is a lovely, quiet city retaining well-preserved old mansions on cobblestone streets. Artisanal shops line the streets and rumours suggest that it has quite the gastronomic culture. Curious about duck rice, a local reinvention of a Portuguese dish, I went in search of a serving.

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