Estrada Real - Congonhas

Congonhas is a city of 55,000 residents and is primarily known for its basilica, the Bom Jesus of Matosinhos Sanctuary. It is located on a bluff that is part of the Ouro Branco Mountain range. Access to the 18th century sanctuary was via a steep cobbled street. A stride up the hill brought me to the sanctuary’s forecourt, encircled by a parapet and topped with twelve statues. Depicting the Twelve Prophets from the Old Testament, the soapstone (a type of metamorphic rock) sculptures were created between 1800-1805 by Aleijadinho. Several high-profile artists worked on the sanctuary including painter Mestre Atade and architect Francisco de Lima Cerqueira. With a Baroque exterior and Italian Rococo interior, in 1985 the church was designated a UNESCO site.

The construction of the sanctuary was commissioned by Portuguese adventurer and miner Feliciano Mendes. After recovering from a grave illness, he promised to Bom Jesus of Matosinhos he would build the church. Bom Jesus is a polychrome sculpture in Portugal. Thought to have been sculpted by Nicodemus, a man who knew Jesus in real life, it is believed that the sculpture has a perfect likeness of Jesus.

When the sanctuary was built, a copy of Bom Jesus was imported from Portugal. Bom Jesus was seen as a “powerful vehicle for intercession” and believed that prayers uttered before the sculpture would be answered. The Room of Miracles next to the church became a place for pilgrims to make offerings as thanks for their answered prayers. Hundreds of photos and small tokens line the walls and display cabinets inside the room.

A walk down the hill leads to six chapels, each with polychrome sculptures – sculpted by Aleijadinho and painted by Atade – depicting various scenes in Jesus’ life. The chapels are not accessible, but I could peer through the windows to see the works. A scene depicting the Last Supper was in the farthest chapel, with sculptures in vivid detail bringing the whole thing to life.

Throughout its time, the sanctuary drew pilgrims from afar and continues to retain its importance as a pilgrimage site. The setting is beautiful and serene, with remarkable works that are worth taking the time to observe and enjoy.

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