Monday, December 25, 2023

Road to Hana - Upper Waikani Falls

Maui has a plethora of waterfalls of which many are along the Hana Hwy (sometimes out of view due to heavy vegetation), largely due to the 50+ streams that cross beneath all the bridges. The waterfalls form at the top of Haleakala Mountain and may take anywhere from 6 to 12 hours to travel down the mountainside to become these falls. The strength of its pour will be dependent on how much rain has fallen and it can be anything from a trickle to flooding with very little in-between.

Haleakala Mountain is a huge inactive volcano on the east side of Maui taking up more than 75% of the island. The west side of the island is taken up by another volcano. Accessible by car the tallest peak is 10,023ft (3,055m). From the summit facing east is a massive crater measuring 7mi (11km) across, 2mi (3.2km) wide and almost 2,600ft (800m) deep. Devoid of vegetation the crater has several walkable trails and right in the centre of it is Kawilinau, a 65ft (20m) deep ‘bottomless’ pit.

The very first waterfall on this route is the Twin Falls and although not visible from the road, it is only a short hike into the lower falls, then up a sloping path to the second one. Both with plunge pools to swim in and cool off it is quite often very busy. For the adventurer, a little further upstream is another waterfall (unnamed) tucked within the dense rainforest in absolute tranquility.

The Upper Waikani Falls, also affectionately known as Three Bears Falls is visible from the highway on the mountain side via a small viewing point. The falls are three thin parallel cascades with the left one at a higher point, followed by a drop in height for the middle one and even lower for the third one. The falls cascade from a height of 70ft (21m) and plunge into a swimmable pool below. Getting to the base of the falls is via a trail beneath the bridge accessed from the southwest side via a steep descent through tropical vegetation until it levels out.

Amongst the foliage, splashes of Red Torch Ginger plants abound. Brought to Hawaii in the 19thC, this striking plant harbours medicinal and culinary properties. Its brown root is used in tea to aid with cold symptoms, morning sickness, motion sickness to name a few whilst also providing the tingly flavour in gingerbread, used to complement sushi or added in thin slices in bowls of ramen (Japanese noodle soup).

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