Kokoda Trail - Owers’ Corner

I started the morning with slightly damp boots at the base of the Maguli Range and its nine false peaks. Heading through grassland, the first false peak was at 3,280ft (1,000m). I counted each one of them, so I knew how many I had left before I reached the top at 4,429ft (1,350m). It was very tiring, and it felt demoralising when each time I reached a plateau thinking I was at the top, there was the next false peak just waiting for me.

Of course, just as I reached the top, having climbed 1,960m (600m), I had the equal descent down to Ofi Creek, with a good dose of muddy terrain awaiting me for the next 2,296ft (700m). I kept going, passing through Ioribaiwa village, flanked by more kunai grass, crossing over small boulders at Va-Ule Creek and then another steep descent into dense forest until I reached Imita Ridge.

Imita Ridge was Australia’s last stand after a relentless two-month Japanese advance. With tin helmets and bayonets, the Aussies dug themselves in and waited but the Japanese never came as they hadn’t advanced beyond Ioribaiwa Ridge. With exhausted supplies, starving and in a terrible state, the Japanese were ordered to quietly retreat all the way back to the north coast. For the Aussies, the arrival of fresh reinforcements gave them the strength to start their counter-offensive in early to mid-October. Within a few more weeks the Japanese were pushed back to the north coast at Buna-Gona. By January 1943 with the assistance of United States forces, the Japanese were completely routed from Papua New Guinea.

From Imita Ridge, I descended to Goldie River – 82ft (25m) wide and 3ft (1m) deep, the river had a strong current with no logs for crossing. Boots off and steady fording, I waded through the river to the other side. Back in 1942, the trail from the river to Imita was further east and ascended via the “Golden Stairs”. The stairs consisted of over 2,000 (some say it was 3,000) timber steps cut into the mountainside, climbing 1,312ft (400m), descending 1,640 (500m) before climbing another 2,296ft (700m) over a distance of 3mi (5km). This was an exhausting climb for the troops, each soldier laden with 44-66lb (20-30kg) of weapons and supplies. Once they reached the top, they needed to be in fighting form to defend Imita and then engage in the counter-offensive.

With a final uphill push and over one more false peak, I crossed beneath the Kokoda Trail Arch at Owers’ Corner. Turning towards the north, I marvelled at the enormity of my accomplishment, having conquered the Kokoda Trail. I was in awe of the soldiers who, through a seesaw of advancement or retreat, never wavered, pushing through rain and slushy mud, climbing numerous peaks (some near vertical) and crossing endless rivers.

Humbled by the history, yet empowered by my experience, I take my leave from Owers’ Corner and head for Port Moresby for a very long shower and a mighty hearty feed.

This poem is an apt description of what the Aussie soldiers endured during their time in the Kokoda campaign: https://www.kokodawalkway.com.au/a-poem/

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