Torres del Paine - Welcome Center

At the southern end of Chile on the continent of South America is the exquisitely pristine mountainous terrain of Torres del Paine National Park. Established in 1959, the park is filled with tall peaks, ample glaciers, turquoise lakes, rivers, plenty of wildlife and hundreds of species of flora. In 1978 the park was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

The name Torres del Paine translates as The Blue Towers, and it refers to the three famed granite towers that the park is named after. Located within the Paine Massif (aka Cordillera del Paine), The Towers are amongst a dozen or so other significant peaks within the mountain formation ranging from 6,560ft (2,000m) to 9,462ft (2,884m) in elevation.

The park and its two major trekking circuits are very popular with hikers. The "W Circuit" is the shorter route that as the name suggests travels in a "W" shape through two of the four valleys and beside Grey Lake close to Grey Glacier.

The "O Circuit" is a hiking trail around the entire massif, past several lakes, rivers and glaciers. The circuit was pioneered in 1976 by John Gardner with two local rangers when they successfully circumnavigated the massif. This is the journey I will be undertaking.

Beginning at the Welcome Center on the southeast corner of the massif, my journey will be heading anticlockwise, hiking north on the east side of the mountain. Following the river to Los Perros Glacier, I climb over John Gardner Pass and cross several suspension bridges. Once beside Grey Glacier, I will keep skirting around the mountain alongside Grey Lake on the westside, then Nordernskjold Lake on the southside and finish back where I started.

I anticipate gusty winds, shifting weather patterns and some tough trekking sections. Whilst I'll be happy to see a herd of guanacos on my travels, any puma sightings would be preferred from a distance.



Time to hit the trail.



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Yosemite - Liberty Cap

Reaching the Half Dome Trailhead, I re-joined the John Muir Trail and made my way back to the start of my journey at Nevada Fall. Hiking through stunning woodland with the sun streaming amongst the leaves, I reflected on my last adventure hiking up the Half Dome. It took courage to tackle the cables and trust in my capabilities and fitness.

With a spring in my step and a smile on my face I returned to Nevada Fall. Adjacent to the fall was the imposing granite dome called Liberty Cap. The dome got its name in 1865 when the then California Governor thought its shape resembled the cap of liberty on the half-cent coin, the smallest US coin denomination that was minted between 1793 and 1857.

Right next to Liberty Cap was the slightly smaller dome called Mount Broderick with its rock climbing routes. It was named after David C Broderick, a US senator from California who was mortally wounded after being shot in a pistol duel following a disagreement with his opponent.

The summit of Liberty Cap was accessible from the northeast gully. Feeling brave enough, I tackled its rocky terrain with a little bit of scrambling to reach the top. Taking in the last of my aerial views and of course just a few more photos, I descended to the base and looked for an ideal spot to sit down and enjoy the end of my journey.

This journey seemed over all too soon. I truly understand why Galen Clark, John Muir, President Roosevelt, Ansel Adams and scores of other conservationists worked tirelessly and lobbied wholeheartedly to protect this pristine wilderness and keep it in its original condition as much as possible.

Farewell and see you on the next journey.



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Yosemite - Half Dome

Having left Yosemite Falls, I criss-crossed Merced River, connecting with a trail that took me to Mirror Lake. Being a calm day, the clear lake reflected the surrounding cliffs, providing gorgeous reflection-themed photo opportunities.

Whilst the lake is full during spring and early summer, the rest of the year it dries up and is often referred to as Mirror Meadow, filled with grasses and sandy spots. Taking in my surroundings, I could see Mt Watkins, Washington Column, North Dome, and another perspective of Half Dome which I was heading towards to climb to the top.

The Half Dome climb to the summit is not for the faint of heart. Rising 5,000ft (1,250m) above Yosemite Valley and 8,800ft (2,680m) above sea level, the trail to Half Dome was the longest and steepest hike in the park. There were two major components in climbing the dome. The first was tackling the sub dome which I climbed via steps in a zig-zag fashion. The steps were rugged without handrails for support or balance. As I moved to higher altitude the air got thinner and my breathing harder. Keeping myself in check for altitude sickness, I made sure I drank plenty of water and monitored my physical well being. Any sign of headache or dizziness and I would have had to return to lower altitude.

The next stage was climbing the cables. Two sets of cables are set into the rock with wood plank steps set at intervals. The 400ft (120m) climb was vertical and exposed.

Luckily there were no clouds over my head because in wet weather the rock becomes slick and the cables difficult to hold on to. Getting stuck on the cables would expose me to the risk of lightning and the cables themselves can become electrified. Thankfully, the sky was blue and I could focus on getting to the top. Reaching the summit, I was met with stunning views of the valley and the High Sierra.

Absorbing the beauty of this place, I lined up a series of panoramic shots on my trusty camera before I turned to go back down. Descending those 5,000 vertical feet (1,250m) was surprisingly much harder than going up. The risk of falling or slipping was ever-present but a slow and steady approach saw me back at ground level safe and sound.



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Yosemite - Yosemite Falls

Passing Devil’s Elbow and El Capitan Picnic Areas, I turned off Northside Drive back into the valley and the meadows. Trekking along an unmarked path, my greatest joy was whenever I was walking beside the river, ever so peacefully flowing on its way.

I crossed the Swinging Bridge over the river which ironically was not swinging since it was made of solid wood. However, prior to 1965, crossing this part of the river was done on an actual swinging bridge made of narrow wood planks and a couple of cables holding it together. Any cheeky individual wanting a heart-pumping experience could jump up and down and swing side to side on the bridge so that anyone else on it would need to either lie down or hold tightly to the cables to keep from being tossed into the river. Although the spring floods posed the greatest danger, they could often damage or wash away the bridge. I prefer the safety of a solid bridge to admire the crystal-clear water below and Sentinel Dome above.

Back in the meadows I got my first glance of Yosemite Falls, powerfully plunging over the edge of the mountain. As the highest waterfall in the park, it drops a total of 2,425ft (739m) over three levels. The upper fall, which is what I saw from the meadow, makes up nearly half of the total drop. The middle section is made up of four smaller plunges and collectively named as the Middle Cascades. Given its location in a narrow gorge with limited access, the middle section is often overlooked and visible in only a small number of places. The lower falls is the smallest of the three and the most accessible.

Looking for a bit of adventure I tackled the arduous hike up to the upper falls. The 3mi (5km) ascent was on a steep trail through oak woodland. The terrain was rocky and uneven, filled with switchback after switchback. Staying on the path was mandatory as adjacent to the trail were many steep drops. The trail was difficult but my perseverance was rewarded with spectacular scenery from above the waterfall. I extended my hike to the nearby Yosemite Point where I had direct views of Half Dome and the nearby Lost Arrow Spire, a detached pillar that became a hotspot for highlining (slackline in high places) over the valley. In 1985, Scott Balcom became the first person in the world to successfully highline from one side to the other.

Taking in the panoramic views, I mentally photographed what I saw and understood why Ansel Adams would go to such lengths, climbing treacherous trails, carrying heavy camera equipment to capture the splendour of this park.



Footage of Scott’s 1985 highline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6RYJFz1tqI&ab_channel=SlackDaddytools



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Yosemite - El Capitan

I spent the next 3mi (5km) on an uneventful meander, enjoying the beautiful forest and having the Merced River’s company as it wound its way beside me. I took a little detour to Bridalveil Fall. It is known for thundering during the spring so much that reaching the trail's end is sometimes impossible because of the strong spray created as it plummets 620ft (189m) from above.

I crossed the river on its northern side and stopped at one of the valley’s viewpoints. The granite cliffs rose above the treelines with a commanding presence whilst Bridalveil Fall tumbled in the distance from a hanging valley. Here I sat in silence, listening to the birds singing, the river babbling and feeling the trees filling my lungs with clean air. It was easy for me to imagine the valley's summer color palette of green and grey slowly changing to a warm palette in autumn and a cool palette of white, grey and icy blue by winter.

My next stop was the 100-million-year-old, granite rock called El Capitan (‘the captain’). A million years ago, glaciers carved this vertical rock formation. Whilst the summit of El Capitan can be reached via a trail hike, the challenge is in the technical climb up The Nose, a route ascending 2,900ft (880m) up the central buttress of the monolith. The first ascent was completed in 1958 by Warren Harding, an accomplished rock climber who succeeded in climbing some 28 first ascents in Yosemite. It took him 47 days to summit El Capitan and it would take another 27 years before The Nose was successfully completed in one day.

Leaving the climbing to the experts, I chose to enjoy this grand rock formation from the meadows adjacent to it. Laying out a picnic blanket in the centre with snacks and drinks, I took in the splendid 360 degrees of towering cliffs and surrounding trees. I think I may while away some time here in the sunshine amongst this magnificent landscape.

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