Crustal Rapids

It’s been 83mi (133km) since the last manmade structures when I rafted below the Navajo Bridges. Now within half a mile of each other I came across two suspension bridges, both serving pedestrians. The first one was the Kaibab Bridge which was built in 1928 to replace the swinging bridge that was built seven years earlier. It is often referred to as the “Black Bridge” and it spans 440ft (134m) across the river connecting the North and South Kaibab Canyon trails.

The second bridge, Bright Angel Bridge (aka Silver Bridge) was completed in the 1960s and aside from connecting the two sides of the river, it also provides support to the trans-canyon water pipeline that is suspended beneath the bridge. The pipeline pumps 500,000 gallons of water per day from Roaring Springs near the North Rim to the tourist area on the South Rim. Several sections of the pipeline can be seen along Bright Angel Trail.

Following two easy-going rapids, I came upon one of the more difficult ones in the canyon, Horn Creek. Although short it was also very steep as it dropped into a series of waves and holes. A huge sinkhole is to the left of the rapid’s start. I entered to the right of it navigating around big waves that were bouncing off a submerged ledge. Steering left, beyond the sinkhole, I crashed through oncoming waves getting soaked all over again. It was a fast, heart-pumping thrill.

The rapid was named after Tom Horn, a late 19th century US Army Scout who was the main interpreter during the surrender of Geronimo, leader of the Apache people. Later, he became a detective which he took up when all his cattle were stolen one night from his ranch, bankrupting him, then a Pinkerton agent due to his tracking abilities; and finally, a gun for hire for which he paid with his life when he was found guilty for killing a teenage boy and hung. To this day his guilt/innocence continues to be debated because the investigation lacked detail, sufficient evidence and lastly, Horn’s confession was made whilst inebriated.

More intense rapids ensued with Grapevine, Hermit and Crystal. Each with their own hair-raising characteristics. There’s always something to look out for: strong currents, sinkholes, twisting waves but with Crystal there’s the added rock garden in the middle of the river where a raft could get pinned or the small whirlpool near one of the rock walls that almost guarantees a flip. I navigated through the left of the rock garden, keeping it tight through the centre as I rode the waves out of the rapid avoiding the big holes. With each intense moment, I doubly appreciated the calm that followed.

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