Berlin Wall - Brandenburg Gate

Within a mile of each other are two very important historical features that played crucial parts in Berlin’s history: Checkpoint Charlie and Brandenburg Gate.

Checkpoint Charlie was a major border crossing between East and West Berlin and the only crossing accessible to foreigners and Allied forces. A mere wooden shack, the checkpoint was in complete contrast to East Berlin’s side that featured guard towers, barriers and a shed to check vehicles for hidden escapees. The simple shack was meant to illustrate that the Berlin Wall was not a legal international border and that the checkpoints were meant to be temporary.

In October 1961, a US diplomat crossing into East Berlin was requested to have his documents examined by East Germans. He refused on the grounds that as per the US-USSR agreement, only Soviets were authorised to check documents. The diplomat was denied entry. Repeated efforts to restrict access to American personnel followed, culminating with a tank stand-off between the two superpowers at Checkpoint Charlie. Over a 24 hour period, the American and Soviet tanks (about 10 each side), barely 100m apart, faced-off, trained their guns on each other and were ready to fire. Concerns that the first shot fired could set off World War III, swift diplomatic negotiations ensued. Reaching an agreement, tensions were diffused and the tanks withdrew peacefully.

One of the most distressing moments that captured the plight of East Berliners worldwide was the fatal shooting of Peter Fechter. He was 18 years old when, together with a friend, he attempted to flee over the Wall, near Checkpoint Charlie. Having reached the wall, his friend made it across but Peter was shot in the pelvis by border guards. Lying injured, help was not forthcoming. The West side couldn’t help because he was on Soviet territory. The East didn’t want to help for fear of being shot at by the West. Peter, caught in the middle, was left at the Wall and bled out. An hour later he was carried away by border guards. 

Brandenburg Gate was built in the 18th century, as a representation of peace and as such was initially named the Peace Gate. In 1806, Napoleon used it for a triumphal procession and promptly took the quadriga atop the Gate as a trophy. The quadriga was returned by the Prussians a decade later. In the early 20th century, the Gate became a party symbol for the newly ascended Nazi regime and by the end of WWII, it suffered significant damage following the heavy air raids on Berlin. After the war the Allies restored it.

When the Berlin Wall was built, the Brandenburg Gate found itself amid the ‘death strip’. With the concrete wall running behind and a boom gate barrier in front, the Gate was closed off from the public. Viewing points from a fair distance were only available in East Berlin.

When the Wall fell, Brandenburg Gate became a symbol of peace and unity, reminiscent of its original purpose.

 

Berlin Wall - Waltersdorfer Chaussee

 

The thriving city of Berlin is home to 3.8 million people. It is the capital city of Germany, the largest city in the country and one of the most populated in Europe. A tourist destination, Berlin is rich with culture, diverse architecture, vibrant nightlife, a plethora of festivities and a very high quality of life.

Yet not so long-ago, Berlin was a decimated city, a result of heavy bombing during WWII. When Germany lost the war in 1945, the country was divided by the Allies into four sectors. The Allies consisted of the United States, Great Britain, France and the Soviet Union (USSR). East Germany was occupied by the USSR and West Germany was split between the other three. Berlin, as the capital city, was located in East Germany and it too was carved up into East and West Berlin. 

Movement within the capital and around other parts of the country was easily accessible. For years, people were able to travel across borders for education, work, visiting family and so on without worry of being stopped. 

Whilst West Germany was rebuilding quickly, improving the residents’ quality of life, East Germany was lagging behind and the Soviets became increasingly concerned when large numbers of its population were defecting to the west, particularly professionals, thereby causing a ‘brain drain’. To stem the tide, the Soviets closed their borders to West Germany but the border in Berlin remained open. The East Berliners swiftly took advantage of this opportunity to escape and by 1961 more than 300,000 had left within the first six months of the year.

Border crossing came to an end in August 1961 when the Soviets laid more than 6,000mi (9,600km) of barbed wire around West Berlin’s 96mi (156km) perimeter. The first generation of concrete walls was built within the same year, with subsequent fortifications following over the next 14 years. A secondary wall was built about 100m from the first one with the gap between them becoming what was known as the ‘death strip’.

Overnight, families, friends and neighbours were separated. East Berliners whose homes crossed the boundary between East and West found themselves with their back door nailed shut and bricked over. Many were relocated as buildings were razed to make way for the ‘death strip’.   Waltersdorfer Chausse, where my journey begins, was a border crossing for West Berliners/Germans and foreigners heading to Schönefeld Airport in East Germany. The airport was the site of a daring escape by a couple, who hijacked a domestic flight shortly after take-off and tried to force the crew to fly to West Germany. The plan failed. When the couple realised they were landing back at the airport they killed themselves. In their words “All we want is to live our own lives the way we would like… Should our plan fail, [we] are going to depart this life… Death is then the best solution.” 

Stories of bold escapes and failed attempts will unfold as I head north along the Berlin Wall Trail.