Ring Road Iceland - Laugarbakki

Laugarbakki may be small but they were forward thinking when they converted an old school into a hotel with modern Nordic designs. With all necessary amenities on the premises, I settled in for a few days and explored the surrounding area.

My first stop was the nearby Folk Museum which houses Ófeigur, the 19th century ship that refined oil from the sharks it caught and sent it to Europe to use in their streetlamps well before the age of electricity. Built in 1875, the preserved vessel is the last of its kind in Iceland. Imagine 10 men hauling this vessel into freezing icy waters in the middle of winter in search for the Greenlandic sharks which they fished for meat and liver oil. The meat was cured and fermented to create Iceland's national dish Hákarl which is still made today. The Museum also exhibits rural living at the turn of the 20th century, displaying living arrangements, cooking during these times, criminal cases and women's history.

In need of some lore, I was curious about the gorge Kolugljufur that legend says was dug out by a troll called Kola. Living in a nearby cave Kola hunted and cooked salmon from the river Víðidalsá which cascades into this narrow but deep canyon forming the Kolufossar waterfalls. The lore ends with Kola eternally resting amongst her treasures on a nearby hill. 

On my way to Vatnsnes Peninsula I took a small detour to see the Borgarvirki volcanic plug. Made of basalt strata in a columnar shape, it stands 177m (580ft) above sea level. Although a natural phenomenon, evidence of walls, stairs and other additions indicate that it was once used as a fortress. The Icelandic Sagas (circa 9th-11th century) mention that Borgarvirki was used for military purposes.

To add to my volcanic mood, I did a quick stop in Blönduós to have a look at the church on the hill that was built to resemble a volcanic crater. Made of concrete it has a strong and striking look showcasing Iceland's modern architectural designs that is ever-present throughout the island and particularly through their churches.

Having made it on Vatnsnes Peninsula, I was particularly interested in seeing the Hvítserkur rock formation that some refer to as an elephant shape and others as a rhino. I think it looks more like a triceratops drinking water. A little more lore, it is said that the rock formation is really a troll frozen in the light of day. This 15m (49ft) tall basalt rock protrudes from Húnaflói Bay and is the nesting ground for various birds. The three large holes may have been carved by cascading sea water but its foundations have become brittle and it has since been reinforced with concrete to protect it.



I finished my day with a picnic watching the seals lazing on the rocks and the pups playfully frolicking in the water.

Regards,

 

Richard



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