Wednesday, March 1, 2023

Kruger Park - Crocodile Bridge

When I dream of being on a safari, I imagine wide open grassy plains, sweltering days and magnificent sunsets. I see big cats crouching, hiding in the grass, assessing their prey, or lounging on a tree branch, ever watchful of their surroundings. I can hear the mighty roar of the lion and I know why he is king of the jungle. I can picture a herd of elephants being led by its matriarch or zebras camouflaging themselves from colour-blind lions with their monochrome stripes. I could go on and on in my imagination, but a better experience is to journey through Kruger National Park (“Kruger”), one of the largest wildlife reserves in Africa.

Shaped like an elongated, reversed “L” the park is located in the northeast corner of South Africa. Bordered by Zimbabwe to the north, Mozambique to the east, the Crocodile River to the south and several private lands to the west, Kruger is South Africa’s first national park. Its predecessor, the Sabie Game Reserve, was founded in 1898 by Paul Kruger, the President of South Africa, following grave concerns about the rapid decline of wildlife due to hunting and agricultural expansion. Unfortunately, the Anglo-Boer War (1899-1902) significantly reduced works around wildlife preservation. After the war, work resumed and in 1903, Shingwedzi Game Reserve was also created. By 1916 the two reserves were consolidated, creating the Transvaal Game Reserve and in 1926 it was renamed Kruger National Park.

Encompassing an area of nearly 7,600mi² (20,000km²), the park is home to 147 mammal species, 127 reptile species and over 500 species of birds. Kruger is widely popular for its Big 5 Game: lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo and its Big 6 Birds: ground hornbill, Pel’s fishing owl, lappet-faced vulture, saddle-billed stork, martial eagle and kori bustard.

Kruger is teeming with wildlife amongst diverse vegetation and water sources, including big cats, big mammals, wolf-like canines, ungulates, antelopes, crocodiles, and plenty of small and unique looking animals like the pangolin, aardwolf and mongoose. Besides the Big 6 birds, keeping an eye on the sky can be just as wonderfully rewarding with birds such as the: Plum Coloured Starling with its iridescent purple upper body and pure white belly; Black Headed Oriole with its bright yellow body and black head; and a real delight is the Lilac Breasted Roller and its kaleidoscope of colour; pale green, lilac, greenish blue, black, off-white, brown and cobalt blue.

Wildlife faces various threats, from drought, urban development and mining to poaching and hunting. Rhinos, buffalos and elephants are especially at risk as they are hunted for their horns and tusks. Armed anti-poaching units patrol the park with help from specialist canine units and aerial support such as helicopters and drones.

This journey begins at the ring-fenced Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp, one of four original ranger posts in Sabie Reserve and one of the entrances to the park. Located north of Crocodile River, it has great views of the river and the farmland beyond. Nearby are the remnants of an old railway bridge that in the 1920s was used as a tourist attraction to visit the Sabie Reserve. Armed rangers would lead tourists on short bush hikes during their journey. The line became defunct, and the tracks removed when it was decided to expand the rail network around the park in order to keep the wildlife safe.

The gates at the rest camp close for the night to keep the wandering wildlife out. It’s at this point I make sure I’m safely tucked away in my cabin with mosquito repellent on, keeping an ear out for anything that slithers and check that uninvited critters are not roaming around in my sleeping quarters.

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