Cotswold Way - Chipping Campden

It’s a lovely, crisp sunny day in the beautifully preserved market town of Chipping Campden. I am outside the 17th century Market Hall that was built as a shelter for market traders. Gorgeous archways surround the perimeter wall as the building takes pride of place in the centre of town. At one end is a discrete plaque marking the Cotswold Way with the words “The Beginning and the End”. Beside the sign on the ground is a circular marker stone with a brass acorn in the centre, the symbol for all UK National Trails, and a quote encircling the acorn by T.S. Eliot with the words: “Now the light falls across the open field, leaving the deep lane shuttered with branches, dark in the afternoon”. Such wonderfully inspiring words as I am about to embark on my journey.

 

The Cotswold Way is a long-distance walk from Chipping Campden to the Roman city of Bath. Running the length of the Cotswold escarpment, the route travels through historical villages, past stately homes, churches and battle sites. Along the way, wooded areas with ancient trees are interspersed with rolling pastures and wide-open meadows. The route can be tackled in either direction, hence the words on the plaque.

 

As I begin my journey, I head down High Street and take in the honey-coloured buildings lining the road. Most of them date back to the 17th century and are constructed from the oolitic limestone that is known as Cotswold stone. The oldest house in town, further up the street, is Grevel House. Built in 1380, parts of the house were remodelled and extended in the 1800s. Two gargoyles at the top of a perpendicular bay window stand guard, whilst a sundial sits in a gable above leadlight windows with coat-of-arms designs. The house used to belong to William Grevel, a wealthy wool merchant whose family have been residents of Chipping Campden for more than a century.

 

Less than a mile out of town, I passed by Dover’s Hill, one of the Cotswold’s many great viewpoints. Near a bench is a toposcope illustrating the visible landmarks and the views down the grassy slopes are accentuated by sheep grazing and chestnut trees hugging the perimeter. It is here that Robert Dover started the Costwold Olimpick Games in 1622 where games such as ‘shin-kicking’ (yes, it’s true), tug-of-war, wheelbarrow relays and running races are the highlight. With the exception of a 101-year gap, it has been held every year on the first weekend of June.

 

Perplexed by the thought of the shin-kicking contest, I slowly toddle away from the hill and towards Broadway.

 

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