Separated by half a mile (800m) from each other are the towns of Maiori and Minori. Both tucked in valleys and known for their beautiful azure beaches, they are separated by a promontory. Atop the promontory is the small village of Torre which is full of terraced vineyards, lemon groves and olive trees.
Maiori
was at the epicentre of a major flooding event in 1954 when its main
street, Corso Regina, that was built on top of a flood-prone stream
collapsed, taking many buildings with it. The reconstructed buildings
carry many of the late 20th century influences.
The mouth of the stream is in the middle of the longest stretch of beach on the Amalfi Coast
and a promenade runs along the whole length of the beach. To the east
of the town is the 13th century Norman Tower built on rocky outcrops
that once served as a watchtower protecting the coast.
To the west of the town on a hilltop is the 13thC Collegiate Church of Santa Maria e Mare. Its main treasure is the collection held in the Sacred Art Museum located within the Church’s crypt exhibiting religious artifacts such as statues and busts of saints, crosses, chalices and silver artifacts to name a few.
Exploring the Path of the Lemon trail in the village of Torre I am introduced to the special Amalfi Lemon. Cultivated in terraced gardens all along the Amalfi Coast, the lemon is described as: long, tapered and double the size compared to other lemons with thick, wrinkled skin, intense perfume and sweet, juicy flesh. What gives these lemons their special properties is the Mediterranean climate, protection from the cold northern wind by the mountains and exposure to the sea breeze and strong sun, much like the Menton Lemons found on the French Riviera. Used extensively in cooking very little of the lemon is wasted: juice to flavour; leaves for aroma; or wedges dressed in salt, oil and mint as an appetizer.
Skirting around the terraced promontory, I arrive in Minori and its small rectangular beach tucked in a cove. One of the main attractions in town is the remains of a 1stC villa that was used as a holiday getaway by the Roman aristocracy. Partial remains were discovered by accident in 1932 when some local homes collapsed during renovation and the Roman chambers were exposed. Further remains were unearthed after the 1954 flooding and again in 1956 when St Lucia Hotel was built.
Minori may be small but it’s famous for the Pear and Ricotta Cake created by pastry chef Sal De Riso. Made of thin hazelnut sponge, the filling is a combination of ricotta and whipped cream mixed with cubes of pears cooked in syrup. The locally grown ingredients, pears from Agerola and ricotta from Giffoni, both within a short distance of Minori, makes this cake a specialty and a symbol of the Amalfi Coast.
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