Amalfi Coast - Amalfi

 Amalfi is a popular tourist destination located at the foot of Monte Cerreto. It was an important town between the 9th and 11th centuries when Amalfi was the capital of the maritime republic and an important maritime trading port. From the 1920s-30s it was a holiday destination for the wealthy and aristocratic Brits. Now it is the main coastal town on the Amalfi Coast route and known for its Byzantine cathedral and specialty Amalfi paper.

The cathedral was built in the 10th century and is dedicated to Apostle St Andrew whose relics are kept in the cathedral’s crypt. Redecorated many times in various architectural styles, the cathedral’s façade collapsed in 1861 requiring a full reconstruction of the church’s front. It was during this rebuild that the church received its current façade with its richly decorated, intricately patterned design showcasing Arab-Norman and Italian Gothic styles. Completed in 1891, the church is accessed via a wide and steep staircase, totalling 62 steps. The interior has a central nave and two aisles that are separated by 20 arches. Two rows of chandeliers hang above the pews, each one aligning with an archway softening the rich and contrasting colours of the interior.

North of the Piazza is the Amalfi Paper Museum showcasing the origins of this specialty paper. Also known as Carta Bambagina, this thick, soft, exquisite paper that is primarily used for special events and hand-sewn books was once a cheaper form of paper than parchment.

Its roots are traced back to its trade with the Arab world when the first paper invented in China (c106AD) had made its way into the middle-east. Through commercial relations the paper crossed the Mediterranean and by the 12th century Amalfi became one of the first locations to begin production of such paper in Western Europe.

The paper was made from cotton rags by beating it to a pulp, then spreading a thin layer of the pulp over a thin wire mesh and placing it inside a vat of water. When the pulp was removed, the water was drained and pressed between two pads to remove the excess water. The final stage was to hang the sheet out to dry. The production of paper took a hold over the following centuries and reached its pinnacle in the 18th century when as many as 14 paper mills existed in Amalfi. Due to new technologies, a shift towards wood and vegetable pulps for raw materials and ability to mass produce, sent the production of paper from cloth into decline. The final blow to Amalfi was the 1954 flood that destroyed most of the paper mills. Today only one paper mill remains.

Amalfi Coast - Minori

Separated by half a mile (800m) from each other are the towns of Maiori and Minori. Both tucked in valleys and known for their beautiful azure beaches, they are separated by a promontory. Atop the promontory is the small village of Torre which is full of terraced vineyards, lemon groves and olive trees. 

Maiori was at the epicentre of a major flooding event in 1954 when its main street, Corso Regina, that was built on top of a flood-prone stream collapsed, taking many buildings with it. The reconstructed buildings carry many of the late 20th century influences.
 
The mouth of the stream is in the middle of the longest stretch of beach on the Amalfi Coast and a promenade runs along the whole length of the beach. To the east of the town is the 13th century Norman Tower built on rocky outcrops that once served as a watchtower protecting the coast. 

To the west of the town on a hilltop is the 13thC Collegiate Church of Santa Maria e Mare. Its main treasure is the collection held in the Sacred Art Museum located within the Church’s crypt exhibiting religious artifacts such as statues and busts of saints, crosses, chalices and silver artifacts to name a few. 

Exploring the Path of the Lemon trail in the village of Torre I am introduced to the special Amalfi Lemon. Cultivated in terraced gardens all along the Amalfi Coast, the lemon is described as: long, tapered and double the size compared to other lemons with thick, wrinkled skin, intense perfume and sweet, juicy flesh. What gives these lemons their special properties is the Mediterranean climate, protection from the cold northern wind by the mountains and exposure to the sea breeze and strong sun, much like the Menton Lemons found on the French Riviera. Used extensively in cooking very little of the lemon is wasted: juice to flavour; leaves for aroma; or wedges dressed in salt, oil and mint as an appetizer.

Skirting around the terraced promontory, I arrive in Minori and its small rectangular beach tucked in a cove. One of the main attractions in town is the remains of a 1stC villa that was used as a holiday getaway by the Roman aristocracy. Partial remains were discovered by accident in 1932 when some local homes collapsed during renovation and the Roman chambers were exposed. Further remains were unearthed after the 1954 flooding and again in 1956 when St Lucia Hotel was built. 

Minori may be small but it’s famous for the Pear and Ricotta Cake created by pastry chef Sal De Riso. Made of thin hazelnut sponge, the filling is a combination of ricotta and whipped cream mixed with cubes of pears cooked in syrup. The locally grown ingredients, pears from Agerola and ricotta from Giffoni, both within a short distance of Minori, makes this cake a specialty and a symbol of the Amalfi Coast.

 

 

Amalfi Coast - Cetara

Cetara is a small and unassuming coastal village removed from the hustle and bustle of the more famous towns on the Amalfi Coast route. It would be easy to breeze through Cetara in search for more dynamic and lively locations if it wasn’t for one famed delicacy.

Cetara has a thriving seafood industry particularly red tuna and as such is not quite as dependent on tourism leaving this village largely untouched by overdevelopment, and open to authentic cultural experiences and local foods.

The village was originally settled by Arabian pirates around 880AD and later conquered by the Normans. When it was attacked by Turks in the mid-16th century, the village built the Tower of Cetara, to defend its coastline. Most of the village was eventually abandoned until the few residents that remained joined the municipality with Vietri until 1833 when it gained its independence. 

Now you might be wondering what that famed delicacy was. It came in the form of the small bluefish that many of us find too strong in flavour and extremely salty - the anchovy. Since Roman times, Cetara has been perfecting a special anchovy sauce known as Colatura di Alici (anchovy drippings). The sauce contains only two ingredients: anchovies and salt. Taking a wooden barrel the anchovy fillets are layered with salt, sealed and left to ferment for several years. During this fermentation process the anchovies release liquid which becomes the sauce. When the process is complete a hole is made at the bottom of the barrel and the sauce drains through the anchovies and then bottled. The final sauce is a transparent, amber-coloured liquid that is sparingly used on various dishes including pasta and pizza. As you might imagine this lengthy process creates a product that is both a specialty and expensive. Using it sparingly would make for a wise decision and long lasting bottle.

With that in mind and always willing to explore new flavours, I went in search of a Spaghetti con la Colatura di Alici in one of the local restaurants. In its simplest form this pasta dish is reminiscent of the well-known Aglio e Olio Pasta (garlic and oil pasta) except that it is flavoured with colatura. Savouring each forkful of twirled spaghetti coated in olive oil, I enjoyed the hints of garlic and pepper flakes, the subtle saltiness of the anchovy sauce, the acidity of the lemon zest and the lightly toasted breadcrumbs for a little texture.

 

Amalfi Coast - Vietri Sul Mare

Beginning in the small fishing village of Vietri Sul Mare is the gateway to the Amalfi Coast, a coastal journey along the Tyrrhenian Sea, through small cliff top villages, famous towns like Positano, past vineyards, villas and lemon groves. 

Amalfi Coast isn’t particularly long but it is full of surprises. Listed as a UNESCO site since 1997, Amalfi Coast is known for its limoncello liqueur, painted tiles, the elegant Amalfi paper, the Emerald Grotto, the semi-sweet Amalfi lemon and of course its dramatic views along a winding route.

Whilst traditionally the Amalfi Coast begins in Vietri Sul Mare and ends in Positano, my journey will go beyond Positano, across the Sorrentine Peninsula and into the town of Sorrento. At 35mi (56km) long, I look forward to endless sea views, small beaches and Italian cuisine.

I began my travels at the Villa Comunale, a public square perched up on the edge of a sheer cliff face with expansive views across the Gulf of Salerno. Constructed entirely out of ceramic tiles, this terraced square is a kaleidoscope of colour and mosaic tiling and pays homage to Vietri’s long history of ceramics and pottery production in the region.

Vietri’s ceramic tiles date back to Roman times, when exactly is unknown though. There are some records that indicate trade in the late 9th century of vases and tableware but more detailed recorded history begins around the 14th century. The quality and craftsmanship of Vietri tiles took a leap in the 17th century and by the 20th century with the arrival of renowned artists and craftsmen, mostly from Germany, took Vietri’s ceramic tiles internationally. The Germans were also skilled chemists and through their experiments many unique colours were invented with “Vietri yellow” being amongst them. 

Vietri showcases its ceramic tiles throughout the village from the cupola of Parish Church of St John the Baptist, built in 1732; to the various laneways and buildings that are decorated with the tiles; and along Corso Umberto where shops specialising in ceramic wares line the street including Cassetta Ceramica, the oldest family of ceramists who began production in the early 16th century. 

Just to the north of Villa Comunale is the Solimene Artistic Ceramics factory, an impressive custom made building for the founder of the company, dating 1954, that continues to produce handmade ceramics combining old traditions with new technologies. 

Italian cuisine is known for its simplicity, using few ingredients that are fresh and flavoursome. Being in a fishing village I chose a seafood risotto. Made from arborio rice, it is gently cooked in broth with tomato puree added before the rice is fully cooked. A seafood combination of clams, mussels and shrimp tossed in olive oil with garlic and mild chilli is added on top and garnished with fresh parsley.

 

Mt Kilimanjaro - Uhuru Peak

This was the final stage of my journey.  Having left Barranco camp, I carried on westwards in a zigzag fashion, descending 984ft (300m) until I reached the Machame Trail junction at 12,139ft (3700m).  Turning right onto the trail I knew this was the final ascent but also where my breathing would be challenged the most.  

Trekking through alpine desert, the sun was strong and glaring and the temperature cold and dry. As I gained more altitude, the air thinned out further.  It became very important to set the right pace to manage my heart rate and oxygen intake.  Move too fast and I would get dizzy, lose energy and fatigue the muscles.  Move too slowly, I’d fall behind and potentially run out of time to summit.

With a slow and steady approach, I arrived at Lava Tower.  At 300ft (91m) tall, Lava Tower is a volcanic plug.  During one of Kili’s past volcanic explosions lava erupted out of a vent, cooled then hardened like a plug.  Luckily Kili is no longer active because this kind of plug could build pressure below the surface that could potentially erupt violently.  

There was a time when the tower was climbable but due to safety concerns it is now prohibited.  Those who had the chance to climb it in the past said the views of Uhuru Peak were just amazing.  At the base of the Tower is the Lava Tower Camp.  Set a little lower, the camp provides an opportunity to rest and recover from the lengthy ascending hike and effects of high altitude. 

From Lava Tower there are two ways to climb up to the Summit.  Either via a descent to Barranco Camp, before an ascent to Stella Peak and then Uhuru Peak or the treacherous Western Breach Wall.  

I opted for the latter.  Although the Western Breach Wall is known as one of the most hazardous routes to the summit, I chose it for several reasons.  One, it was the shortest route to the top.  Summit is done during the day rather than overnight and no traffic jam at the top.  I was also able to sleep in a crater and explore glaciers.

Now the downside is that the Breach Wall, which is a gap formed by lava flow, is made up of soft loose rocks, the result of a rockslide.  The top third of this wall is very nearly vertical and the rocks here are often held together by the glaciers above.  When the glaciers melt and retreat the previously bound rocks are released and tumble down the mountain.  Beneath the wall is a 30-45 degree mountainside which collects the fallen rocks from above and shoots them down a narrow chute to the bottom.  

As such, the difficulty was not in the climb itself, even though there were many switchbacks to tackle, but the ever-present glaciers that gave no indication if they had retreated and loosened the rocks above.  Although I had to trek through the dangerous chute, my time was kept to a minimum and as quickly as was possible at that altitude I traversed to a safer pathway.  It didn’t completely eliminate the danger but I was in a better position than if I had climbed directly through the ‘danger zone’.

When I reached the top the first thing I saw was the remnants of an ice cap that once used to cover the summit.  Named Furtwängler Glacier, it seemed almost odd, looking at this large block of ice sitting atop very fine beach-like black sand.  It was interesting to see the glacier and the sand cohabitating in the same space.  Sadly in the last century almost 85% of the glacier had vanished.  There was a time when Kili had 16 named glaciers and 3 icefields.  In the last half a century at least four have vanished and at the rate they are melting it is predicted that in less than 50 years there will be no ice left on the mountain.

I skirted the crater rim to Crater Camp, elevation 18,865ft (5750m) to refuel and pondered that last stretch.  I was a mere 475ft (145m) below the summit and about half a mile (800m) in terms of trekking distance.  Of course without further ado, I pushed for that final ascent.  Slow and steady over the next hour, focusing on just one step in front of the other, I wound my way up to the weathering summit sign and the spectacular views of Mount Meru, another volcanic mountain, to the southwest; Kibo’s three concentric craters; and the Northern Icefield beyond the crater.  

In Swahili, Uhuru means Freedom.  Here at the top of Africa, I felt free and unconstrained, just like this tall free-standing mountain called Kilimanjaro.
 

Mt Kilimanjaro - Barranco Camp

 Heading south across the saddle that connects Kibo and Mawenzi, I descended about 1312ft (400m) till I reached Maua Route.  Taking a right turn at the junction, I joined the Horombo-Barafu Trail on an upward westerly approach.  Skirting one of Kibo’s lower ridges the elevation gained from the junction was 3280ft (1000m) slowly inching toward the top of the ridge.  As the local guides say in Swahili “pole pole” meaning “slowly, slowly”.

At the top I continued across the edge of the ridge to Barafu Camp to rest, refuel and rehydrate.  It was not unusual to drink 4-5 litres of water per day.  Typically I had 2-3 litres during the trekking phase, a litre before dinner and another before I went to sleep.  Staying well hydrated helped with acclimatisation and altitude sickness.  

I traversed southwest for the next 2mi (3.2km) to Karanga Camp and then a northwest climb to Barranco Wall.  Now for anyone on the southern or western trails up to Kibo would have had to contend with a 843ft (257m) scramble up this sheer cliff face making it even more challenging to those afraid of heights.  Barranco Wall was vastly different to the mostly gentle slopes of Kibo.  The Wall was the result of a huge landslide that occurred about 100,000 years ago.  Kibo was originally taller, almost 19,500ft (5944m) when portions of its summit pyramid broke away, slid down the southern face and created Barranco Wall.  Although not a technical climb, the scrambling needed all four limbs to climb up.  Because the path was narrow and it cut back and forth along the rock face, solid placement of hands and legs throughout the climb was necessary.

Given that I took the circumnavigational route, I didn’t need to undertake this climb and was pleased to take in the views from the top of the Barranco Valley below.  However, I did have to descend it in order to get to Barranco Camp for the night.  An extra workout for my quads, hamstrings and knees.

Located in the Barranco Valley the campsite was amidst a grove of giant dendrosenecios.  Looking at them in abundance, I couldn’t help but see them as these small compact hanging gardens atop tall thick trunks of trees.

Wondering into the mess tent, I eyed the hearty beef ghoulash with vegetables and the fresh bread but not before I indulged in a comforting potato and leek soup.  The banana fritters for dessert were also well received along with my usual hot cuppa.

Mt Kilimanjaro - Mawenzi Tarn Camp

Leaving New Pofu Camp, the trail led me to the Upper 3rd Caves Camp where it intersected with several other trails such as the Rongai, Kibo Hut and School Hut Trails.

The camp was in a somewhat desolate grey-looking environment devoid of colour with only some shrubs and tufts of small grasses.  Although it could’ve been perceived as aesthetically displeasing this alpine desert environment was still fascinating to experience with its raw and barren wide open space.  If the terrain was rusty red you’d almost think you were on Mars. 

With Mawenzi Tarn Camp as my next destination, the most direct route would have been to take the Rongai Trail.  With this approach I would remain at the same elevation since I began the Northern Circuit and descended into Mawenzi Tarn Camp at the end.  However, I chose to take a lower route by first descending approximately 1640ft (500m) and swung my way around the eastern side of the mountain to Kikelawa Camp and the Kikelawa Caves.  The camp is located in a large meadow of tussock grasses and giant dendrosenecio plants. White-necked ravens were waiting around the campsite for scraps or unattended food.

The nearby cave was one of many on the flanks of Kili which in the past were used as overnight shelters but have now been superseded by designated camp spots with nearby water supplies.

With under two miles (3km) left the trail ascended steadily reaching a lake at the foot of the rising steep ridges of Mawenzi, the second highest volcano southeast of Kibo.  Mawenzi along with Kibo began erupting about a million years ago.  The two peaks were separated by the Saddle Plateau. From the western side Mawenzi looked like a single jagged rock jutting from the saddle which was vastly different from Kibo’s gentler-looking and trekkable slopes.  This western side of Mawenzi was the highest point reaching 16,893 ft (5,149 m).  It was named Hans Meyer Peak, after the first person to summit Kili.  

However, Mawenzi was actually a horseshoe shape with three steep ridges and two deep gorges in between them.  With such steep ridges, Mawenzi can’t hold any glaciers leaving no permanent snow, unlike Kibo with its permanent glaciers and year-round snow.

Although Hans Meyer attempted to climb the Mawenzi peak in 1889 after he summitted Kibo, he did not succeed due to illness.  The first successful summit was made by two German climbers in 1912.  Because Mawenzi is a technical and hazardous climb the peak was closed to climbers for more than a decade.  Although reopened in 2017 climbers and guides must be experienced rock climbers and can only proceed two at a time.

Leaving the peaks of Mawenzi to the experts, I will gladly admire its jagged appearance from the lakeside camp.  With a hot cuppa in hand and a load off my feet I reflected on my journey so far and what is yet to come.
 

Mt Kilimanjaro - New Pofu Camp

 As I continued on with the hike through the forest the trail gradually steepened crossing several streams.  Rounding the northern slope of the Shira Ridge at 3937ft (3600m), I emerged from the rainforest onto the expansive Shira Plateau descending 328ft (100m).  The pace has slowed to help with acclimatisation.

The Shira Plateau stretches over 8mi (13km) at an elevation of 12,998ft (3962m).  It was originally one of the three volcanic cones and the first volcano to die out.  About half a million years ago, Shira collapsed in upon itself creating a caldera.  When the Kibo cone exploded 360,000 years ago for the last time, the lava and debris filled the Shira caldera turning it into the plateau it is today.  Dark lava rock was visible as I hiked my way across it.  

A heather and moorland zone, the plateau was filled with grasses, wild flowers and the unusual looking ‘Dendrosenecio kilimanjari’ a giant flowering plant from the sunflower family.  Another beautiful and endemic plant to Tanzania found on the plateau was the ‘Lobelia deckenii”.  Growing for several decades with multiple rosettes, the Lobelia produces one large inflorescence and hundreds of thousands of seeds, then dies. Due to the multiple rosettes the plant continues to reproduce and flower repeatedly. 

Making my way over the plateau, I crossed more streams and large boulders whilst Kibo majestically loomed in the distance awaiting my arrival. 

Reaching the intersection of Lemosho Route and the Northern Circuit, I swung a left turn and commenced my circumnavigational trek around the top quarter of Kili heading north.  The terrain is quite arid with very low and desert-like vegetation slowly moving towards the alpine desert zone.

The elevation ascends and descends approximately 656ft (200m) hovering between 13,779-14,435ft (4200-4400m) for most of this northern route.  Being the newest trail it was very quiet indeed. 

Reaching New Pofu Camp late afternoon, I settled into my tent awaiting another feast to fill my belly and refuel.  Looking forward to another soup, a casserole this time and finishing with a nice hot cuppa.  From here I had magnificent views into Kenya’s wild lands to the north.

Mt Kilimanjaro - Mti Mkubwa Camp

Mount Kilimanjaro, Kili for short, is located in north-eastern Tanzania and it is the largest free-standing mountain in the world. It has three volcanic cones: Kibo (dormant), Mawenzi and Shira (both extinct).  It stands at 19,341ft (5,895m) above sea level and is one of the 7 Summits in the world.  Kili is within the Kilimanjaro National Park, a UNESCO Heritage Listed site since 1987.

The first successful summit of Uhuru Peak was made in 1889 by German geographer, Hans Meyer and Austrian mountaineer, Ludwig Purtscheller.  It was Meyer’s third attempt to summit and Purtscheller had the privilege of celebrating his 40th birthday on the summit.  It took another 20 years before someone else summitted again.

It took the better part of the 20th century before Kili became a trekking destination.  In 1939 only 58 people visited and less than 1,000 visitors by the 1950s.  Fast forward to the mid-1990s and it exploded to 11,000 trekkers and by the 21st century Kili sees an average of 35,000 climbers per year.  

There are five climatic zones on Kili:

1.      Cultivation [4000-6000ft / 1200-1800m] – a highly productive agricultural terrain due to the fertile volcanic soil.  Small nocturnal mammals such as tree hyrax and galago reside here.

2.      Forest [6000-9200ft / 1800-2800m] – a lush and dense ecosystem with high rainfall. Squirrels, antelopes, monkeys and leopard roam the area.  

3.      Heather and Moorland [9200-13,100ft / 2800-4000m] – the heather ecosystem connects the wet forest below with the arid moorland above.  Due to lack of foliage the moorland is dry, cold and windy with overnight frost.  Elands a type of antelope occupy this area.

4.      Alpine desert [13,100-16,000ft / 4000-4900m] – this zone consists of almost no vegetation as it is cold and dry but with lots of sun. Temperatures fluctuate and water is scarce.  Hardly any animals venture here except for the occasional African wild dog.

5.      Arctic [16,000ft / 4900m and above] – below freezing temperatures at night with very little rain, plants or animals.

There are seven established routes on each cardinal point.  The most popular being Machame and Marangu both from the southside of the mountain.  Wanting to experience a more remote and quiet route, I opted for the Lemosho Route from the westside with a plan to swing left onto the Northern Circuit circumnavigating Kibo to Barranco Wall on the southside and wind up to the summit, Uhuru Peak.  Lemosho is a relatively new trail, added by the National Park to reduce congestion on other routes.

Another reason for choosing Lemosho is that it is longer with shorter elevation gains thereby making it a slower and more natural acclimatisation experience.  Camping all the way through, the route is a repeated “climb high, sleep low” which provides ample time to adjust to a higher altitude.  Acclimatisation is an important part of the trek.  My body is used to working at sea level where oxygen intake is at maximum.  However, once I climb beyond 6561ft (2000m) the air thins out and I need time to adapt to less oxygen.  The further up I go the more adaptation I need.  By disregarding gradual adaptation, I could end up with Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) that could develop into pulmonary oedema or cerebral oedema which could prove fatal.  Certainly if I was to show signs of AMS the best way to manage it would be by descending, taking AMS medication and/or resting an extra day as my body recovers and adapts.

The route begins at Lemosho Glades at 7380ft (2100m) above sea level.  Standing at the Lemosho Gate I was surrounded by a dense rainforest very clearly indicating what I would be experiencing on the first stage of my climb.  The path was narrow but very well maintained.  Either side was a green wall of deep foliage with light filtering through the canopy.

With Kili only three degrees south of the equator, it means that the temperature does not fluctuate much, and the forest is quite humid especially after heavy rain.  This is a great environment for plants to grow and thrive.  Ferns, junipers, sycamore trees and moss are just some of the plants found in the forest zone along with the endemic ‘Impatiens Kilimanjari’.  This flowering plant is only found in the jungle floor of Kilimanjaro.  The inch-long flower is pinkish-red that’s a little orchid-like but it has a yellow tail that from a profile looks more like a tropical seahorse.  As a perennial plant it blooms almost all year round.

Anyway this wondrous undisturbed forest was a constant visual delight as I ascended the trail at a steady pace up to Mti Mkubwa Camp.  The trail itself didn’t deviate, it continued to be mostly narrow and well maintained, hiking single file.  The camp’s elevation was 9120ft (2780m).  It was nestled amongst tall trees with the tents setup ready to be occupied and the mess tent prepped and ready for dinner.  After 4+ hours of trekking I was famished and looked forward to a hot stew, crunchy bread and a cuppa to replenish my burnt calories and fully fuel me for the next stage.
 

Help Me Make a Difference

29^th April 2021

Dear 4Ocean,

I’m not sure how the bracelet became a major article of conservation and caring, but I’ve a few of yours in my collection. I promised to pull a pound of trash out of the ocean for every thousand YouTube subscribers I get, and this has permitted me to make a small contribution to a better world through your company.

However, given that your main product is bracelets, and I don’t wear jewelry of any kind beyond my fitness tracker, it comes to me that there is something missing from your inventory. That would be a bracelet holder.

Yes, I could just buy a bracelet holder for around fifteen dollars, but again, I don’t wear bracelets, and that wouldn’t pull a pound of trash from the ocean now would it? Moreover, I couldn’t find any responsibly sourced bracelet holders in a short search.

Given that I can buy bracelets to pull trash from the ocean, save bees, track turtles and polar bears, plant trees in Australia, and contribute to wolf conservation one would think that a bracelet holder displaying contributions to a better world would be a thing.

Given that bracelet holders can be made out of almost anything, are simple to design, require very little structural integrity, and would show off your product it sounds like a fit for you. I would favor one that looks like a leafy seadragon myself, but I’m sure you folks could design something in a short time. Even better, have a contest for customers to design them. You can even start this object off as a Kick start program, and test the market before making it a permanent offering.

One of the sad truths of this life is that there is only so much I can do, that means I can’t make much of an impact. That is why I turn to companies like you to help me make a difference. 

Just a suggestion,

 

Richard Leland Neal

 

 

Easter Island - Hanga Roa

 

Back in Hanga Roa, I took a side trip to Hanga Kio’e (Mouse Bay), a small bay thought to be a former royal residence. Legend says that an old widow entered the cove with a mouse in her mouth, in mourning of her dead husband whose remains were buried here. Two Moai built in the late 17th century stand here, one complete but without his pukao and the other in ruins, only his back was placed back on the ahu. It is a quiet and contemplative place with few visitors frequenting. 

Hiking along the coastline, I arrived at the ceremonial complex of Tahai. It is one of the oldest settlements. It was a practical location due to easy sea access for fishing and fresh water. Nearby was a long and narrow oval foundation that used to be a house and a cave used for shelter where as many as 200 people once lived. 

Three ahus are placed near the coast being: 

- Ahu Vai Uri, the longest platform with five restored Moai carved in different styles. A sixth statue lies on the ground near the ahu.

- Ahu Tahai, is an eroded, singular statue with a thick neck and torso.

- Ahu Ko Te Riku, that was fully restored complete with pukao and the only one on the island with coral eyes and red scoria pupils (see postcard image). 

About 160ft (50m) from the ahu is the tomb of William Mulloy and his wife. William was a well renowned anthropologist who came to the island in 1955 and spent the next three decades studying the island, promoting its culture and working tirelessly to restore many of the popular sites.  

Meandering along the rest of the coastline, I reflected on the Rapanui people, their Moai worship and Birdman Cult. Their rise and fall as a culture were driven by overpopulation, overharvesting, deforestation and hastened by the Polynesian rats. Arrival of the Europeans, missionaries and the Peruvian slave traders compounded their demise. What little was left of them was further devastated by the introduction of smallpox and other foreign diseases for which they had no natural immunity. 

Fast forward to the 20th century and the Rapanui culture is seeing a revival through traditional dances, music, symbolic tattoos, festivals, tourism and ongoing restoration of the Moai statues. Locals are engaged by archaeologists to assist on their projects and subsequently trained in excavation techniques and conservation methods. They are taught long-term preservation, so they may protect their precious artifacts into the future.

Although it was one of the finalists, maybe one day we will see the Moai make the New 7 Wonders of the World list. 

For now, I bid you farewell or as they say in Rapanui, lorana (goodbye).

Easter Island - Puna Rau

The journey through the centre of the island is along endless meadows and rolling hills. What stands out significantly is the lack of trees, which is the same for most of the island. There are patches here or there but most are not native to Rapa Nui. 

When the first settlers arrived with some unsuspecting guests, the Polynesian rat, Rapa Nui was teeming with native palms and other large trees. Pollen and nut studies on the island suggest that they likely belonged to native, giant, palm trees similar to Jubaea, a Chilean sugar palm tree that grows up to 60ft (18m) in height. 

The palm tree had many uses. A tapped palm tree would yield over 400 litres of sap that was used as a sweet and nutritious beverage. Its core would be harvested and the nuts collected for food. Along with other tree types, the palm was also used for thatching, making ropes and clothes, weaving mats and baskets, and building canoes, levers and sails. 

The rats that hitched a ride found an abundance of food with no natural predators besides the humans. Feasting on the unlimited supply, they multiplied exponentially, doubling almost every six weeks. 

Within a few centuries, the island could no longer sustain the excessive needs of its occupants nor its population growth. At its height, Rapa Nui had as many as 15,000 inhabitants and who knows how many rats. Usage outgrew new growth and by late 17th century the island was treeless. 

The effects of overharvesting began with deforestation. With no trees, the islanders couldn’t build their canoes to fish, diminishing their food source and their ability to search for food elsewhere. Island-bound, they were also unable to reduce the population through migration. 

Native land birds went extinct and the trees could no longer disperse their pollen. More than 20 plant species disappeared. With no supply of timber, the Moai could no longer be transported, thereby abandoning this ceremonial practice and replacing it with the Birdman Cult. 

The Rapanui found themselves in an ecological trap. Famine followed causing significant social upheaval. By the time the Europeans’ arrived, the population dropped to around 2,000 inhabitants and the island was devoid of trees.

Today, Easter Island has only 5% arboreal coverage whilst two-thirds of it suffers from erosion caused by climate change with Poike the most affected. Reforesting programs are underway but given the island’s open and windy environment and lack of soil nutrients, the process will take time. 

For now, the Australian eucalyptus tree seems to be doing well on the island regardless of the environment and I enjoyed seeing patches of them as I progressed towards Puna Rau. 

Puna Rau is a small extinct volcano and the quarry of red scoria, the material used to make the pukao. The scoria is a type of volcanic ash that is highly porous with a reddish tint due to the iron oxide composition. It is soft and easy to carve making it a desirable rock for the pukao and other small items but unsuitable for large scale carvings like the Moai. 

Given the sheer size and weight of the pukao, it is surmised that the islanders used their cylindrical shape to roll them on custom-built roads to their destination. It is also thought that the pukao was added to the Moai either by using ramps and rolling it on top of the standing statue or attaching it to the statue if in a lying position with ropes and then elevating it all as one piece. 

Rolling off the hilltop, I make my way back to Hanga Roa.

 

Easter Island - Anakena

Heading north, I passed Poike, an extinct volcano and the oldest of the main three on the island. Poike used to be an island initially until it was joined by lava flows from Taraveka, the biggest volcano located north of the island. 

Following the bend in the road, I turned left and carried on to about halfway between the bend and Anakena Beach. A dirt road led to the Te Pito Kura archaeological complex in front of the Bay La Pérouse where the tallest, once-standing, Moai known as Paro lies. Believed to be commissioned by a widow for her late husband, Paro is 33ft (10m) tall and weighs about 80 tonnes. His ears alone are 6.5ft (2m) long. Unfortunately, Paro was toppled face down during the tribal wars and he split in two. His 10 tonnes pukao (hat) lies beside the head. 

A short distance from Paro is a large egg-shaped stone about 80cm in diameter, referred to as Te Pito O Te Henua, meaning “navel of the world”. Legend says that Hotu Matu’a, brought the stone with him from his native land because it was believed that it held a supernatural energy called mana. 

Back on the road, I continued to Anakena Beach where Hotu Matu’a made his first landing. Anakena is a pristine white beach with turquoise seas lapping on its shores. In the centre of the beach is the beautifully preserved Ahu Nau Nau, topped with seven Moai of which four are fully intact and wearing the pukao. They were restored in the late 1970s and placed back on the ahu. Because the statues were toppled prior to restoration, over time they were covered by sand. This in turn protected them from erosion and saved the detailed engravings on their back. 

To the right of the beach is a singular Moai known as Ahu Ature Huki. This was the first statue to be re-erected using traditional methods. Explorer Thor Heyerdahl, stayed on the island in the mid-1950s and he encouraged the islanders to raise the statue. Using wooden poles, stones and ropes, it took a dozen men eighteen days to place the statue back on the ahu.

Anakena was also an important gathering place for the masters of the rongorongo scripture, a writing system based on glyphs carved on wood or tablets. There are theories about its origins but there is no evidence to substantiate any of them. It is an interesting writing style because the odd lines are written left to right and the even lines are written right to left and upside down. In order to read the even lines, the tablet has to be turned 180 degrees. No one has been able to decipher the system yet. The majority of the tablets were destroyed and the few that survived, about 27, reside in museums around the world. No original pieces are left on Easter Island. 

Leaving the sunny beach of Anakena, I began my westward journey back towards Hanga Roa with a stopover at Puna Pau.