Inca Trail - Sun Gate

Surfacing from the cloud forest of the Runkuraqay Pass, the trail commences its descent towards the ruins of Sayacmarca with sweeping views of the Pumahuanca Mountain.

Continue on to Phuyupatamarca, one of the most intact Inca ruins, and stop to enjoy the snow-capped view of Mt Salcantay. At 6,200m, Mt Salcantay is the tallest mountain in the region. It's Quecha name translates as wild, uncivilized, savage and as such is often referred to as Savage Mountain. The summit of Mt Salcantay was first conquered in 1952 by a French-American expedition. No easy feat since the "climb involves 1,800m of vertical gain, on glacier, snow, ice, and some rock."

Trek onwards to Intipata and Winay Wayna, both known for their agricultural terraces and their convex shape of the terrain, to finally reach the Sun Gate for a breathtaking aerial view of Machu Picchu. Once a fortress, the Sun Gate was the main entrance to Machu Picchu and most likely guarded by imperial guards. Given the strict controls over entries, it is believed that only royalty and select guests were permitted to visit.

Inca Trail - Runkuraqay Pass

The Inca Trail is part of a much larger road network. At the height of its power, the Inca Empire stretched 4,023km from modern day Ecuador to Argentina. The Inca road system was one of the most advanced transportation structures of its time, linking together 40,000km of roadway. The road system provided for quick and reliable logistical support, civilian and military communication, personnel movement on official duty and control over the Empire by dispatching troops when necessary. Following the Spanish conquest in the 1500s much of the network was abandoned and destroyed. In order to preserve the history and restore parts of the network the Inca Road System, officially known as Andean Road System, entered the UNESCO register in 2014.

Much of the Inca Trail is the original construction. Imagine that with every step you take someone laid the roadway beneath your feet some 500 years ago.

The ascent to Dead Woman's Pass is both dreaded and revered. It is the most rigorous climb reaching heights of 4,215m in a such a high altitude environment where the oxygen level is low making breathing shallower and the effort needed to move forwards greater. In the same breath overcoming the difficulty and strenuousness of the climb is also the most rewarding moment.

Following a steep descent into the valley of the pass comes a second ascent to Runkuraqay Pass. On the way are the ruins of a tampu, which was an administrative and military structure used for supplies, lodgings and depositories of quipu-based accounting records.

Quipu was a record keeping system of different knots tied in ropes attached to a longer cord. It was used in lieu of writing since the Incas did not have an alphabet based writing system.

The tampu was served by conscripted individuals from nearby communities, as part of the mit'a labor system. Mit'a was mandatory public service used as the labor force to build roads, bridges, terraces and fortifications.

Inca Trail - Ollantaytambo

Welcome to the town of Ollantaytambo, where you will begin your mountainous journey to Machu Picchu. Surrounded by mountains, Ollantaytambo is located at the end of the famous Sacred Valley of the Incas. Conquered and razed by Emperor Pachacuti in the mid-15th century, the area was incorporated into his personal estate. Pachacuti rebuilt the town and constructed an extensive set of agricultural terraces that were farmed by yanacunas (servants of the nobility). Up on the hill overlooking Ollantaytambo are the ruins of Pinkuylluna storehouses. Thought to have been built during Pachacuti’s reign, the structures were used to store the grain produced from the surrounding terraces. Building the storehouses high was both practical and strategic. The high altitude preserved the food due to cooler conditions and high wind, whilst the location protected the food stores in case of an attack. The starting location is near the Ollantaytambo train station known as Km82. Crossing the Urubamba River the trail follows alongside the river before it commences a steep climb to the lost city of Llactapata. Re-discovered in 2003 using infrared aerial photography, Llactapata sits at the top of a steep slope amongst a small chain of ravines. Archaeological studies concluded that Llactapata was an important rest stop and roadside shrine on the journey to Machu Picchu.

Stand with Ukraine - Hryshko National Botanical Garden

Hryshko National Botanical Garden was established in 1936 and contains 13,000 species of flora from all over the world. It was named after botanist Mykola Hryshko. Within its grounds are the Vydubychi Monastery and Trinity Monastery of St Jonas.

The garden is divided into separate zones, representing flora from different regions such as the Ukrainian Carpathians (mountains), the Plains of Ukraine, the Caucasus (between Black and Caspian Seas), Altai and Western Siberia and Asia. It has more than 350 species of orchids and the greenhouse cares for rare tropical and subtropical plants.

Garden designs may include parterre (an ornamental garden with paths between the beds), decorative succulents, woody plants or flower beds filled with roses, irises, chrysanthemums, tulips, and lilies to name a few.

The tropical and subtropical collection may include bromeliads, azaleas, camellia, cacti, palm, and ornamental deciduous plants.

The highlight of the garden is in May, during the lilac’s blooming season. It has a heady sweet fragrance and blooms in delightful shades of lilac, light purple, and lavender.

Stand with Ukraine - Museum of Folk Architecture

  Pyrohiv is a small village south of Kyiv and home to the open-air Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine, the largest outdoor museum in Europe. It was founded in 1969 and holds a collection of more than 300 buildings dating back to the Middle Ages that were sourced from all over Ukraine and rebuilt onsite to illustrate Ukraine’s rural history.

At the centre of the museum are the wooden windmills scattered on the grounds, surrounded by wooden single-story houses and a number of churches. The museum is separated into two sections each representing a specific Ukrainian region. The oldest church, known as Naddnipryanska, was built in 1742.

Over 40,000 vintage household items are held by the museum such as costumes, embroidery, carpets, ceramics, metal crafts, woodwork, glassware, artworks, and musical instruments. Traditionally dressed artisans and volunteers demonstrate the use of daily items and during different folk holidays, the museum conducts theatrical performances and festivals.

Stand with Ukraine - Holosiivskyi National Nature Park

Green spaces are dotted all over Kyiv, giving its people ample opportunity to escape to nature close to home. Holosiivskyi National Nature Park is one such space located in the hills outside the city centre.

First mentioned in the early 16th century, the park encompasses approximately 11,000 hectares of forest and swamps. With a flora collection of more than 650 species of vascular plants (i.e. ferns), 118 species of moss and 60 species of fungi, the highlight of the park is the age-old oaks scattered throughout with some as much as 500 years old. Delicate flora such as the small pasque flower, Siberian iris and martagon lily bring a dash of colour to the verdant landscape.

Its fauna collection is also quite diverse with 100 species of birds, 44 species of mammals and several species of reptiles, amphibians, and fish. Elks, foxes, hares, and deer make the park their home along with more rare species of snake, otter, stoat (small weasel) and the old-world swallowtail butterfly.

Stand with Ukraine - Mamayeva Sloboda

Tucked in a park amongst high rise residences is the open-air Cossack village known as Mamayeva Sloboda. Made up of wooden houses, a church and other buildings, the village depicts rural life.

The park often hosts dances and festivals and the traditionally dressed guides tell stories of the buildings and the Cossacks’ way of life. Cooks of traditional dishes, weavers and blacksmiths demonstrate their specialty, whilst others may re-enact Cossack fighting techniques.

Rural and folk traditions are an important part of Ukrainian culture. It is a way to carve their own distinctiveness from the many similarities they share with their neighbours. They are evident through their folk costumes, traditional dances and songs, hearty dishes and especially their exquisite embroideries.

Ukraine’s embroidery history is more than 2,000 years old; appearing in folk dress, embroidered shirts known as vyshyvanka, weddings, and other celebrations. Each design, the colour used, and type of stitch applied reflects the region it originated from.

Traditional belief is that a person wearing a vyshyvanka will be protected from all harm. That is because the ornaments embroidered on the shirt are like a coded pattern, where some may bring prosperity and others protection or luck. A disorganised set of patterns may bring distress or change of one’s fate.

The designs are characterised by their region. For instance, flowers and plants prevail in the south and east of Ukraine. They symbolise purity, renewal, and family prosperity. Whereas geometric patterns are reflected in the west of Ukraine symbolising the beauty of nature, fertility, and well-being. Used less often are animal patterns and although not depicted on clothes, they are found on embroidered towels. A wedding towel, for example, may have doves or roosters, facing each other as ornaments.

Celebrated in May, the International Day of Vyshyvanka, is a holiday aiming to preserve “the original folk traditions of creating and wearing ethnic embroidered Ukrainian clothes” and at the same time celebrate the Ukrainian people’s spirit of unity, patriotism, identity, culture, and tradition.

Stand with Ukraine - St Cyril’s Church

Recognisable by its deep green domes and cupolas, St Cyril’s is a medieval monastery containing a 12th century church and architectural elements from the 17th and 19th century. It is located north of the city centre on the edge of Kyrylivsky Hai, a large, wooded park.

The monastery was named after Cyril of Alexandria, who was the Patriarch from 412-444 AD and the church within its grounds was the burial place for the Olgovichi family, the founders of the complex. The monastery was rebuilt following fire damage in 1734 and extra monastic buildings, a belfry, and gate were added. Unfortunately, the belfry was demolished in 1937.

By the late 18th century the monastery was closed and converted into a hospital. A mudflow during the 1960s caused new damage but fortunately most of the church survived in its original form. Inside are enormous 12th century frescoes painted by Mikhail Vrubel, a 19th century Russian artist, and several unknown Ukrainian artists.

Designated a state museum in 1929, the church was saved from destruction at a time when many other sacred monuments were being torn down.

Stand with Ukraine - Saint Sophia Cathedral

Founded in the 11th century, Saint Sophia Cathedral gets its name from Hagia Sophia Cathedral in Istanbul, Turkey. Saint Sophia is the first heritage site in Ukraine to be inscribed on UNESCO’S World Heritage List.

It was founded by Yaroslav the Wise, a Swedish Viking and ruler of the Kyivan Rus federation. Occupying the region, Yaroslav made Kyiv the capital from 882 AD, which it remained until 1240 AD when the Mongols invaded. Yaroslav is often referred to as the Father of Europe whose many offspring wed into European royal houses. His body is entombed in a white sarcophagus within the cathedral.

The cathedral is a magnificent Byzantine structure, with a high central dome representing Christ surrounded by smaller domes representing the apostles. The arched entrance denotes the heavenly gates through which people enter. The white cathedral is topped with green domes and gilt cupolas.

The interior is richly adorned with mosaics made of shiny gold background with blue, grey, and white accents. All the frescoes date back to the cathedral’s constructions. During the 19th century they were restored with oil paints. A 15-year scholarly study of the cathedral’s hidden passages culminated in a body of works, listing more than 7,000 ancient graffiti dating from the 11th-18th century.

Next to the cathedral is a 250ft (76m) tiered bell tower with a pear-shaped dome in gilded bronze. The light blue exterior wall is decorated in detailed stucco ornaments and bas-reliefs.

The cathedral barely escaped destruction in the 1920s when the government at the time planned to use the grounds for the construction of a “Heroes of Perekop” park. It was saved by the intervention of scientists and historians. However, the cathedral was confiscated from the Orthodox Church in 1934 and designated a secular museum with the majority of visitors being tourists.

Stand with Ukraine - Mariinsky Palace

 

Ukraine is the second-largest country by area in Europe, with its capital city in Kyiv. It is bordered by several countries (Romania, Moldova, Russia, Belarus, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary) and two seas (Black Sea and Sea of Azov). 

Settled by Slavs in the 5th-6th centuries AD, today, Ukraine has the second-largest East Slavic ethnic group after Russia. Between its early settlement and now, Ukraine was occupied by various conquerors beginning with Swedish Vikings who, in the 9th century, converted the people to Christianity. Orthodoxy became the most dominant religion, highly influencing Ukrainian customs.

In the 13th century, the Mongols conquered the south and east of the country, leaving the north and west relatively independent. A century later came the Polish and Lithuanians. When serfs ran away from their Polish landlords, they settled in the steppes of Ukraine, forming their own self-governing communities. They became known as the Cossacks, meaning free men, but by the late 18th century they were disbanded and absorbed into Russia. 

Fast forward to the 21st century and the Ukrainians experienced a brief independent period in 1918 before the nation was re-absorbed by Russia. After the Cold War and the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, Ukraine regained its independence and has been a developing country since, trading in agriculture and metals, amongst other things. 

Ukraine’s biggest export commodity is sunflower seeds. This bright and cheerful yellow flower with a centre packed with seeds that are both edible and used to make oil, is Ukraine’s national flower. Brought from North America by explorers, it was discovered that it grew prolifically in the rich soil of Ukraine and by the 1800s, extensive fields of sunflowers were all over the country. Embroidered on fabrics, painted on walls, furniture and household items in a folk art called petrykivka, the sunflower represents warmth and the power of the sun. 

Additionally, this flower’s versatility sees no bounds. In the wake of the 1986 Chernobyl nuclear disaster, scientists planted millions of seeds because they discovered that the sunflower had the ability to rapidly soak up certain radioactive material. Disposing of the flowers is a faster and easier process than removing the soil from the affected area. Then in 1996, to mark the removal of the nuclear arsenals in Ukraine that were inherited at the end of the Cold War, officials from Ukraine, United States and Russia planted sunflowers atop the destroyed nuclear missiles. As such, the flower became a symbol of peace and nuclear disarmament. Today, the sunflower continues to be a symbol of hope and solidarity, a productive agricultural crop, and a cleaner of toxic waste. 

The city of Kyiv was founded in the 5th century AD and named after one of the four legendary founders, who were three brothers and a sister: Kyi, Schcheck, Khoryv and Lybid. Home to high tech industries and a centre for education, science and culture, Kyiv is also a treasure trove of historical landmarks and nearly 1,000 churches. Green spaces abound throughout the city, and it is endowed with three UNESCO designations: St Sophia Cathedral, the Monastery of Caves (Pechersk Lavra) and the Collection of Jewish Musical Folklore.

This journey begins at Mariinsky Park, a city park founded in 1847 by Maria Alexandrovna - Empress of Russia, one of the founders of the Russian Red Cross, founder of the first Russian all-female school and famous for aiding her husband, Tsar Alexander II, with ending serfdom. During the 19th century, the park brimmed with busts and sculptures, which have since been removed, however the cast iron fountain installed in 1900 continues to hold a prominent position. 

Adjacent to the park is the Mariinsky Palace, which the park is named after. A stunning baroque palace, construction was completed in 1752 with Catherine the Great being the first imperial member to stay in it during her visit in 1787.

The palace burnt down in a fire in the early 19th century and was left empty and abandoned until Tsar Alexander II restored it and renamed it after his wife. By the 1920s it was used as an agricultural school, then a museum and, following serious damage in WWII, it was restored twice more.

Today, the palace is used for official receptions and summits. Outside, it is beautifully painted in a sea foam colour with white and ivory accents. Inside it consists of 55 rooms on the ground floor, used for official purposes and the second floor has 26 richly adorned suites and halls. The walls are decorated with paintings by foreign and Ukrainian artists loaned from galleries in Kyiv, L’viv and Odessa.

Amalfi Coast - Sorrento

Cutting across the Sorrentine Peninsula, I arrive in Sorrento, my final destination. Overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento is a laid back town that is known for its marquetry, Sorrento lemons and Limoncello.

Housed in an 18thC building is the Inlaid Wood Museum that showcases Sorrento’s long history of marquetry furniture. Thin sheets of wood, cut into intricate patterns were adhered to furniture creating decorative pieces for the home. The museum’s collection covers periods from 1400-1800AD exhibiting various furniture pieces and explaining the techniques and tools used by the artists. Around 700 skilled artisans continue this tradition blending historical techniques with modern processes.

Sorrento lemons are a variety that are PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) certified. Described as medium to large, oval-shaped citrus fruit with a thick skin, very juicy pulp and almost seedless, what makes it unique is its peel that is rich in essential oils making it highly fragrant. The lemons are grown on tall wooden frames (as high as 15ft/5m) in order to protect them from the elements and allow the fruits to ripen slowly. Historically it was only handled by women, with trimmed nails wearing cotton gloves to protect the fragile rind from damage and subsequent fungal rot. The Sorrento lemons as with the Amalfi lemons are a staple fruit on any Italian table. 

The Sorrento lemon is also used for producing the somewhat sweet liqueur known as Limoncello. At least 60% of the Sorrento lemons grown are reserved for the production of the liqueur. Used as an aperitif or a digestif, Limoncello is typically served chilled without ice and sipped slowly.  It is made from lemon zest, water, alcohol and sugar. Because the zest is the main component of the liqueur the lemons are usually hand-picked in order to prevent it from contacting the ground and bruising the peel.

Continuing with this versatile citrus fruit, a great way to finish a wonderful journey along the Amalfi Coast is with a Pasta al Limone (aka Pasta in lemon sauce - it sounds so much better in Italian). Cooked pasta is added to a sauce of butter, garlic and lemon zest and tossed till it's coated, then grated parmesan cheese mixed through to thicken the sauce. Lemon juice is added to taste and seasoned with salt and pepper then garnished with more grated parmesan and lemon zest. 

Arrivederci / Until we meet again.

 

Amalfi Coast - Positano

Perched up in the hills overlooking the sea is the very popular town of Positano. The pastel coloured buildings spilling down the hills give the impression of a dusty rose ombre layered cake. Yet the narrow roads through and around the town with their curves and sharp turns are reminiscent of a Grand Prix Formula 1 track. And then, there’s all the stairs tucked amongst the buildings leading up or down through narrow alleyways.

There are two main beaches in Positano.  Each one has a private and public section. The private section is defined by rows of neatly lined lounge chairs, each one with their own umbrella and a fee to hire.  Whereas the public section is freely accessible without lounges or any service. 

Positano thrived and declined many times throughout history. It endured destruction from a tsunami in 13thC; attacks from the Ottomans in 15thC; gained wealth through maritime trading in 18thC; and had its final decline in 19thC following Italy’s unification and opening of other commercial routes. As a result, many emigrated to the United States and Positano was reduced to a small fishing village. 

However, in mid-20thC it was launched onto the world stage when John Steinbeck, an American author, drove from Rome to Positano to escape the summer heat. He was so enchanted by the location that he wrote a lengthy essay about the town and had it published in Harper’s Bazaar in 1953. So began Positano’s economic turnaround.

At the heart of the town is Chiesa di Santa Maria Asunta, a 13thC church with a majolica-tiled dome. Tucked away amongst narrow streets it is accessible by two sets of stairs and known for its Byzantine Black Madonna and Child icon. According to legend the icon was once carried by a pirate ship sailing in the nearby waters of Positano. When a furious storm hit, with little chance of survival, the pirates heard the cries of Mary from the icon say “lay me down”. Taking that as a sign the pirates turned the bow towards land and miraculously arrived safely in harbour. Once ashore they handed the icon to the local people who then built the church in her honour.

Now let’s talk about food. The Campania region encompasses the Amalfi Coast and it is the birthplace of Campania’s Buffalo Mozzarella, a cheese made from indigenous buffalo’s milk. The curd, cut by hand, is made into small balls with a creamy texture and tangy sweet flavour. The most delightful way to enjoy the flavour of this particular cheese is in a Caprese Salad. 

On a dinner plate layer sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, with sliced buffalo mozzarella, topped with fresh basil leaves. Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil and aged-balsamic vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Buon appetito!!

 

Amalfi Coast - Conca dei Marini

Conca dei Marini is a small town of less than 700 people. It is mostly known for two things: the Emerald Grotto and the Santa Rosa dessert known as Sfogliatella.

The grotto is a partially inundated cave measuring approximately 147ft (45m) long, 105ft (32m) wide and 79ft (24m) high above water level. It’s unique emerald colour is due to an underwater fissure that filters light through. Inside the cave are columns of stalactites and stalagmites of varying shapes and some as high as 33ft (10m). The grotto was discovered by accident in 1932 by a local fisherman.

To the east of the grotto atop a promontory is the Cape of Conca Tower. Built in the 16th century, as a watchtower, it carried the same purpose as the one in Cetara and Minori, defending the territory from the Turks. Once it lost its importance, the tower was used as a cemetery until 1949 when the local government restored it and turned it into a museum. Reaching the tower required a downhill hike on a well paved road, followed by a steep uphill climb via stairs but the effort was rewarded with spectacular panoramic views of the coast, the sea and the houses perched on the hills. 

Located high up on a hill is the 17th century Santa Rosa Monastery where a nun wanting to use up leftovers created an entirely delicious pastry dessert called Sfogliatella Santarosa. Using leftover bread dough she added white wine and lard and kneaded it into a puff pastry. The nun then combined her leftover semolina cooked in milk with lemon liqueur, dried fruit and sugar turning it into a custard. Adding the custard to the puff pastry it was then baked in a wood oven. The dessert was such a success that its recipe was guarded for the next 150 years until a pastry chef from Naples acquired it, reproduced it and began selling it in the early 1800s. The pastry dough and filling has varied since but it remains a well-loved dessert, so much so that it has its own annual festival in town in August.