Jurassic Coast - Exmouth

I am so incredibly excited because I have finally arrived in the seaside town of Exmouth, England. Here I will embark on a journey along the UNESCO-designated Jurassic Coast. As I travel this coastline from Exmouth to Studland, I look forward to learning about the millions of years of geology and paleontology that make up this incredible coastline.
 

But before I launch into talking about the Jurassic Coast, let me first tell you about Exmouth. Located at the mouth of the River Exe estuary, Exmouth is a charming port town that's been inhabited since the 11th century. It was known as Lydwicnaesse, a name derived from the Celtic word for fish. Developing as a small settlement, the town suffered from pirate raids in the 17th century, but by the 18th century, it grew into a seaside resort. Today, it is the oldest holiday resort in the county of Devon.

Exmouth has a mix of architecture from cob cottages made of natural building materials and townhouses from different eras, including Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian. There is a lovely row of period townhouses on The Beacon and another terrific collection of white, nearly uniform Victorian townhouses on the seafront promenade, distinguished only by their different coloured front doors.

A particular house of interest is A La Ronde, a quirky 16-sided house built by two spinster cousins in the late 18th century. Jane and Mary Parminter set out with Jane's sister and a friend on a European tour over several years. Returning home with trunks full of memorabilia, the cousins set about to build a home inspired by their travels and a visit to the 6th-century Byzantine Basilica di San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy. The house is three storeys high, with the attic featuring nine gorgeous dormer windows, filtering plenty of natural light. The interior contains a feather frieze in the drawing room and a shell-encrusted gallery. The two cousins were artistic and resourceful, using findings such as shells, feathers and seaweed to create their artworks. Of note was the landscape art made from sand, seaweed and shells and the bird images made with actual feathers. Among the many treasures and souvenirs are a series of incredibly detailed seashell pictures from Italy that have unbelievably survived their many bumpy road travels around Europe.

Having finished my exploration of Exmouth, I was ready to get going, take in the vastness of the English Channel and slowly peel the layers of history nestled within the coastline's towering cliffs. Made of sedimentary rock, the cliffs formed during the Mesozoic Era, also known as the "Age of Dinosaurs", spanning from 252 to 66 million years ago (mya). The era consisted of three major periods: the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous. It was a time of great change that saw the rise and extinction of many plants and animals, and the layers of rock hold the story of the Earth's past.

Although there will be variables, the easiest way to picture the Jurassic Coast is that from Exmouth to Lyme Regis, I'm passing through the Triassic layer, the first period of the Mesozoic era. From Lyme Regis to Studland, I'll pass through the Jurassic layer and the most exciting period. This is where the real dinosaur action happened. Then I'll finally reach Studland with its chalky white Cretaceous layer.

I look forward to discovering this ancient landscape's mysteries, beginning with the Triassic rock as I head toward Sidmouth.



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Great Barrier Reef - Fraser Island

When I think of Fraser Island, I associate it with three things: sand dunes, four-wheel driving, and the wreck of SS Maheno. This easily accessible UNESCO site was home to the Butchulla people, indigenous Australians who called the island K'gari, meaning paradise. They occupied the island for at least 5,000 years before Europeans arrived in the mid-1800s and removed and resettled them.

Separated from the mainland by the Great Sandy Strait, the island is the largest sand island in the world, measuring 76mi (123km) long and 14mi (22km) wide. It has some incredible sand dunes, the highest at 800ft (244m) tall. The sand is primarily grains of quartz (silica), creating a squeaky sound between the toes when walking on it. Millions of years ago, the area which is now Fraser Island had a low, hilly terrain created by volcanic activity. Winds, waves, and ocean currents from the southeast regions of Australia and even Antarctica, when it was a green and lush environment, carried sands across the continental shelf towards the mainland, creating several sand islands, of which Fraser Island is the largest. Year-round winds on the island cause the sand to keep moving, sometimes burying forests and other plant life. One example is the Hammerstone dune, located next to Lake Wabby. Initially, the lake was a stream that flowed to the sea, but the wind kept blowing the sand dune until it blocked the flow. As the sand dune continues to drift into the lake, it is predicted that the lake will cease to exist within a century.

One of Fraser Island's unique features is its tall rainforests growing in its sand. A most unusual combination since sand is sparse in nutrients. It is a fascinating chain of events where the nutrients from sea spray are captured in the air and then deposited on the sand. The fungi in the sand then transfer the nutrients to the plants. I cannot help but recall the iconic line from Jurassic Park, "Life finds a way."

The island has a fantastic array of plants with species including eucalyptus trees, kauri pines, mangroves, coastal heaths, and the king fern, which is known to have the world's longest fronds (up to 30ft/9m).

Amongst all this, there are over 100 freshwater lakes. It is Australia's second-largest concentration of lakes, with the most pristine, clear blue waters, including Lake McKenzie and its beautiful white sandy shores.

While the island has nearly 50 species of mammals, the most intriguing one is the dingo. A native wild dog of Australia, the dingoes on Fraser Island are one of the purest strains surviving today. They are very cunning and have medium-sized bodies designed for speed and agility. Who brought them to Australia is unknown, but they have been here for more than 8,000 years. Dingoes love to travel and swim and are often seen wandering along the beaches. As apex predators, they play an essential role in maintaining the island's natural balance by preying on feral animals and fostering the survival of native species.

Fraser Island is a magnificent place full of dunes for sandboarding, rainforests for hiking, lakes for swimming, and the "75-mile beach" for exciting 4WD expeditions. A beautiful video of Fraser Island



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Great Wall - Datong

Datong has a long history, dating as far back as the 5th century BC when it served as a military fort during the Zhao Dynasty. When the Qin replaced the Zhao in 221 BC, the emperor ordered the Great Wall to be extended on its western border, north of Datong.

When the Han Dynasty replaced the Qin, Datong became the headquarters for its eastern frontier. Then the Northern Wei Dynasty replaced the Han and they set up the capital in Datong. The Wei walled the city in 421 AD, with an outer wall circumference of 10mi (16km), then proceeded to build palaces and official buildings on a grand scale. As devout Buddhists, they built many beautiful temples that continue to exist today. To settle the new city, many Chinese families were forcibly moved from their home towns in the north.

The Wei also built the massive Yungang Grottoes, a collection of caves containing over 50,000 Buddha carvings. The caves are packed with statues of varying sizes, with the smallest barely 1.5in (4cm) tall. Other caves are brightly painted in rich colours of red, yellow, green and blue. A handful of large scale, intricately detailed Buddha sculptures can be found inside and outside the caves, with some measuring up to 23ft (7m) in height. In 2001 the caves were designated a UNESCO site.

The Hanging Monastery, located 40mi (64km) northwest of the city, is a stunning piece of engineering. It was built into a cliff 246ft (75m) above the ground by a monk about 1,500 years ago. The structure is resting on oak cross beams that are fitted into holes carved in the cliffs. This is one of a few temples that combines the three Chinese philosophies: Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism.

Fast forward to the 21st century and the city walls of Datong have been fully rebuilt, complete with watchtowers, drawbridges and a moat. Inside is a combination of 6-storey apartment blocks and old courtyard homes. Temples, monasteries and palaces are mixed in with shops and restaurants. The highlight is the surviving 14th century screen wall named Nine-Dragon-Wall. It is 147ft (45m) long and 26ft (8m) tall with reliefs depicting nine different dragons. The wall was originally in front of a palace, designed to protect homes from evil spirits and negative energy. Ironically, the screen continues to exist but the palace is long gone.



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St. Francis Way - Assisi

Travelling across more mountainous terrain, I passed through the small villages of Mengara and Bellugello then had a quick stop in Barcaccia to see the ancient farmhouse St Francis used to rest in. Gently descending amid olive trees and vineyards, I crossed the stone bridge of Tescio River at the foot of Mount Subasio. A steep narrow road brought me to the entrance of Assisi via the San Giacomo Gate and to the St Francis Basilica.

Assisi is a town in Umbria, flanked by Mount Subasio to its west. It is the birthplace of St Francis and Latin poet Propertius (c.50BC). There are two castles and a number of churches that together were designated UNESCO sites in 2000 under the title of "Franciscan Structures of Assisi".

The main church is the Basilica of Saint Francis. A Roman Catholic church it is an important place for Christian pilgrims. Built into the side of a hill, construction began in 1228 and consists of a crypt where the saint was interred and two churches: the Upper Church and the Lower Church. Designed in a combined Romanesque and Gothic style, both churches are decorated with frescoes by painters of the late medieval period. A free-standing bell tower stands to the left of the church.

Besides the basilica is the Friary of St Francis. It was built with pink and white stone from Mount Subasio and has 53 Romanesque arches. Overlooking the valley below, the friary looks like a formidable fortress. Although it was occupied since 1220, the construction took a couple of centuries to complete and you can see the mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles within its walls. Today the friary is a library and art museum.

St Francis is the patron saint of Italy and the founder of the Franciscan order. He is one of the most popular Catholic saints in history. Born in 1181 to a wealthy family, he was initially named Giovanni. This changed when his father, who on business in France, at the time of his birth started calling him Francesco. It stuck and he was renamed. Coincidentally he also had great aptitude for learning French. Francis lived an indulgent life enjoying fine clothes and spending lavishly.

Sometime in 1202 he joined a military expedition and was captured, spending a year as a prisoner and falling ill. This experience forced him to re-evaluate his life and began his spiritual journey. Over the coming years he nursed lepers, begged for stones to repair churches, began preaching repentance and peace, established a set of rules to live by and requested papal approval for his order.

In 1219 as part of the Fifth Crusade, Francis set out for the Holy Land and Egypt to try and convert the Muslim sultan. According to Father Cusato, a specialist in the medieval Franciscan order, the two met "under the sultan's tent and discussed interfaith conflict, war and the search for peace" and seems to have been a transformative experience. Because of this encounter the Franciscan order has had an ongoing presence in the Holy Land to this day.

Upon his return from the Holy Land he continued to refine the rules of his order and established more discipline as requested by the Pope. In 1224 he received the stigmata, marks of Christ's wounds and two years later due to ill health he passed away. Francis was canonised in 1228 and his remains are interred in the Basilica of Saint Francis.

Looming over the town from the hill is Rocca Maggiore, an 800 years old fortress with imposing bastions and battlements. In front of the castle is a piazza with spectacular views of the Spoleto Valley and the town of Assisi. With a natural defensive position above the town, records indicated that fortifications have existed on this site well before the Romans. The earliest structure on this site was a German feudal castle erected in late 12thC, however, following an uprising by the people of Assisi the castle was destroyed. Two centuries later, Cardinal Albornoz rebuilt the castle using the outer walls and some of the fortifications of the ruined castle. Another century later, a twelve sided tower and the curtain wall was added connecting the castle to the town. The castle has been recently renovated functioning as an art and exhibition centre and is open to visitors.

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Estrada Real - Paraty

Emerging from the hinterland I was delighted to reach the coastal town of Paraty in the state of Rio de Janeiro. Located on the Bay of Ilha Grande, which is dotted with islands, the town is surrounded by lush tropical forests, mountains and waterfalls. Paraty is the end point of the Caminho Velho (Old Path) and I successfully completed the second leg of my journey.

Designated a UNESCO site in 2019, Paraty is a wonderfully preserved colonial town with cobbled streets. To protect the cobblestones, vehicles are prohibited in the historic centre. Only foot traffic and bikes are allowed, and horses and carts are frequently seen.

Settled by colonists in 1667, Paraty became an important port for exporting the gold mined in Minas to Lisbon, Portugal. Prior to the currently known Estrada Real, Portugal constructed the Caminho do Ouro (the Gold Trail), a 746mi (1200km) stone road connecting Diamantina via Ouro Preto to Paraty. As pirate attacks increased on gold laden ships, the government built the New Path, a safer overland route from Minas to Rio, completely by-passing Paraty.

With the new road in place and subsequent decline of gold in the late 18th century, Paraty was forgotten and frozen in time. The town was rediscovered when a main road was built between Rio and Santos passing through Paraty.

An interesting phenomenon occurs each month on a full moon. When the tide is high, water spills into the historic centre through openings in the seawalls, flooding the streets for a brief period of time. People living close to the seawalls will sometimes put out temporary bridges to help pedestrians cross the flooded streets.

Given its coastal location, Paraty has numerous stunning beaches that are easily reached on foot or by car. A handful of secluded beaches are also accessible via hiking trails or by boat. There are so many beach options that I am having a hard time deciding on where to go. But once done, I will head northeast to Barbacena where I will connect with Caminho Novo (New Path).



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Estrada Real - São Guaratingueta

Guaratingueta is a well-established city in the state of São Paolo. It gets its name from a phrase in the Tupi language that means "many white herons" due to the abundance of herons along the Paraiba do Sul River that flows around the southern and eastern edge of the city.

Drawn to the minerals hidden in the Minas Gerais, the Portuguese arrived in the 16th century and settled the area. By the 18th century it became a supply station for those travelling from the interior and another century later grew as a coffee producer. For a period of time during the mid-1800s coffee was used as hard currency, increasing the city’s wealth and standing. Immigration in the city increased with the introduction of the steam railway, providing much needed manpower especially as slavery was abolished.

By the 20th century arable lands were depleted of their nutrients and coffee production was in decline. Economic attention was geared towards industrialisation, commerce, tourism and education. New universities sprung up with courses geared towards aeronautics, technology and engineering.

A notable figure from Guaratingueta was cardiologist Euryclides de Jesus Zerbini, who in 1963 established the internationally recognised Heart Institute in São Paolo and in 1968 performed the first heart transplant in South America.

Tucked away on the outskirts of the city is the Frei Galvão Sanctuary where a white life-sized statue of Friar Galvão stands on a pedestal outside the entrance. Born locally in 1739, the friar entered a Jesuit-seminary when he was 13 years old and later joined a Franciscan Order.

During his lifetime, the friar built a church, a hermitage and friary. He spent considerable time as preacher, confessor, spiritual leader, and friary porter, as well as drafting guidelines on how to live a religious life. Dedicated to his work, the friar grew within the Order’s ranks. However, his construction of the hermitage did not come without any challenges. Politicians who disliked the community intervened more than once, but the friar was committed to the cause and with the Portuguese Viceroy’s assistance the hermitage was finally completed. Today, the hermitage is a UNESCO site and a museum of sacred art. In 2007, the friar was canonised by the Vatican making him the first Brazilian-born person to obtain this status.



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Estrada Real - Congonhas

Congonhas is a city of 55,000 residents and is primarily known for its basilica, the Bom Jesus of Matosinhos Sanctuary. It is located on a bluff that is part of the Ouro Branco Mountain range. Access to the 18th century sanctuary was via a steep cobbled street. A stride up the hill brought me to the sanctuary’s forecourt, encircled by a parapet and topped with twelve statues. Depicting the Twelve Prophets from the Old Testament, the soapstone (a type of metamorphic rock) sculptures were created between 1800-1805 by Aleijadinho. Several high-profile artists worked on the sanctuary including painter Mestre Atade and architect Francisco de Lima Cerqueira. With a Baroque exterior and Italian Rococo interior, in 1985 the church was designated a UNESCO site.

The construction of the sanctuary was commissioned by Portuguese adventurer and miner Feliciano Mendes. After recovering from a grave illness, he promised to Bom Jesus of Matosinhos he would build the church. Bom Jesus is a polychrome sculpture in Portugal. Thought to have been sculpted by Nicodemus, a man who knew Jesus in real life, it is believed that the sculpture has a perfect likeness of Jesus.

When the sanctuary was built, a copy of Bom Jesus was imported from Portugal. Bom Jesus was seen as a “powerful vehicle for intercession” and believed that prayers uttered before the sculpture would be answered. The Room of Miracles next to the church became a place for pilgrims to make offerings as thanks for their answered prayers. Hundreds of photos and small tokens line the walls and display cabinets inside the room.

A walk down the hill leads to six chapels, each with polychrome sculptures – sculpted by Aleijadinho and painted by Atade – depicting various scenes in Jesus’ life. The chapels are not accessible, but I could peer through the windows to see the works. A scene depicting the Last Supper was in the farthest chapel, with sculptures in vivid detail bringing the whole thing to life.

Throughout its time, the sanctuary drew pilgrims from afar and continues to retain its importance as a pilgrimage site. The setting is beautiful and serene, with remarkable works that are worth taking the time to observe and enjoy.

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Estrada Real - Ouro Preto

The magnificent city of Ouro Preto is the junction of Estrada Real’s three major roads. Caminho dos Diamantes, the road I’ve been travelling since Diamantina ends here, completing the first section of this journey. For the next section I will be heading to Paraty on the Caminho Velho (Old Path).

The Old Path was the first official route on the Estrada Real connecting Rio de Janeiro to the mining region. Goods from Portugal were transported on this road into the interior while minerals made their way to the coast for onward shipment to Portugal. The tropeiros with their mule trains were the carriers and they would take up to 60 days to complete their journey.

Before I launched onto the Old Path, I explored Ouro Preto (meaning Black Gold), which prior to 1823 was known as Vila Rica (Rich Town). Ouro Preto was the second capital city of Minas Gerais until it was moved in 1897 to Belo Horizonte, the current capital.

Ouro Preto is a UNESCO site mainly due to the well-preserved colonial Portuguese architecture lining its winding cobbled streets. The churches were decorated with gold and sculptures designed by local artist Antônio Francisco Lisboa, better known as Aleijadinho. Ouro Preto's wealth attracted European intellectuals, who brought music, art, and philosophy to the city.

It was also the centre of a failed attempt to break away from Portugal. As gold mining declined, Minas Gerais was unable to meet its tax obligations to the crown. Inspired by the success of the American Revolution and subsequent independence of the Thirteen Colonies, a group of prominent individuals conspired to rise up in rebellion against Portugal. The objective was to turn Brazil into a republic and choose a leader through democratic elections. The conspiracy was subsequently discovered when insiders revealed the plan to the government. In the aftermath, a number of conspirators were exiled to Africa, some were acquitted, and a few were executed, including the leader known as Tiradentes.

One of the most significant landmarks in Ouro Preto is the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Both the structure and the interior’s carved decorations were designed by Aleijadinho, an accomplished architect and sculptor. Building began in 1760 in a Rococo style. Its interior is ornately decorated with gilded woodwork, frescoes, and sculptures. The stunning paintings on the ceiling were done by Mestre Atade, a colleague of Aleijadinho, hailing from the nearby city of Mariana. Above the single door entrance is an intricately detailed relief of St Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy – the St Francis Way is a pilgrimage trail inspired by St Francis’ life.

In 1969 two century-old higher education schools, the School of Mining among them, merged into the Federal University of Ouro Preto, transforming the city into a thriving university town. There's a fine collection of minerals, gemstones, and crystals at the Mining School's Mineralogy Museum. On site security is extremely high due to the gemstones' incalculable value.

There is so much more to see and explore but it’s time to move on as soon as I’ve indulged in a traditional Brazilian Carrot Cake. Delightfully light, the cake is very fluffy topped with a thin layer of chocolate.

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Estrada Real - Diamantina

Imagine if you could hop in a time machine back to the year 1500 and were sailing from Portugal to India via Africa’s Cape of Good Hope but you sail too far west on the Atlantic Ocean and come across a massive landmass. That’s what happened to Pedro Alvares Cabral, a Portuguese fleet commander enroute to India. Making landfall, he believed he was on a giant island until he explored more of the coastline and realised he was actually on a continent, that being South America. He swiftly claimed the land for the Portuguese Crown that later came to be known as Brazil.

At the time of Cabral’s discovery, Brazil was occupied by indigenous tribes. Colonial settlement began thirty years later (c.1530) and the territory remained under Portuguese rule for the next 300 years until Brazil gained its independence. Today, Brazil is the only Portuguese speaking country in South America.

At first, Brazil was used as a coastal trade post, since the Portuguese had no interest in exploring the interior. Brazilwood, a tree that produces red dye, was traded with the local natives and exported to Europe. The colony then turned its focus on sugar production which became Brazil’s primary industry. Export of sugar began to decline by 1700 AD just as minerals, precious metals and stones were discovered in the mountainous state of Minas Gerais (Minas), in the southeast of Brazil.

Fortune seekers rushed to Minas in search of gold. A few years later diamonds were also found. Mining for precious metals and gems became the new economic activity in Brazil but the difficulty was in safely transporting them to the ports for onward passage to Portugal. Smugglers and pirates were plentiful and in order to protect the colonial assets the Crown built three main roads - Caminho Velho, Caminho Novo and Caminho dos Diamantes - and a minor one, collectively referred to as Estrada Real (the Royal Road).

My journey focuses on the three main roads beginning in Diamantina, at the northernmost point of Caminho dos Diamantes (the Diamond Path). Built on the side of a steep valley, Diamantina was founded in 1713 and grew to prominence 16 years later when diamonds were discovered in the area. As the city flourished, cobblestone streets and colourful semi-detached houses went up. Influenced by Portuguese architecture, Diamantina’s buildings were made of wood, a unique difference from other Brazilian towns. The windows were colourfully trimmed and decorated with small iron balconies from where one could take in the sites.

Diamantina’s historic centre is a reminder of the early explorers who braved the interior in search of diamonds and their ability to adapt to new environments. In recognition of this, the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Enjoying the narrow streets and gorgeous buildings, I meandered my way through them towards the end of the city and out into the countryside heading for Serro.



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Ring Road Iceland - Reykjavik

I have completed my 1,332km (828mi) journey around the Ring Road of Iceland finishing at the Árbæjarsafn Open Air Musuem, a historical museum about Reykjavik. The museum was born as a result of concerns that the city's historical legacy is disappearing. Built in 1954 the museum provides an insight into the lives and work of the people pre-20th century through displays of various types of buildings and cultural artefacts.

Any art or architecture enthusiast would revel in the exploration of The Einar Jónsson Museum. The first art museum in Iceland, it was the pipe dream of Iceland's first sculptor Einar Jónsson. Einar gifted all his works to the country on the proviso that a museum was built for them. Although the gift was initially rejected, following fundraising between Parliament and private contributors the art museum came into existence in 1916. The building, designed by Einar, is as much a sculpture as all the works it holds within its walls. The nearby sculpture garden is keeper of 26 bronze casts of his works. Einar worked with clay and plaster and in order to protect them the museum actively turns the sculptures into bronze casts. I also found many of Einar's works just meandering around the city.

No Reykjavik visit is complete without seeing Hallgrímskirkja, a parish church and national sanctuary 41 years in the making. At 74m (244ft) high, it is the largest church and one of the tallest structures in Iceland. It is an architectural feast with a façade reminiscent of the basalt column rock formations found throughout the island.

Outside the church is the statue of explorer Leif Erikson, which was a gift from the United States commemorating the 1000th anniversary of Iceland's parliament. Leif was a Norse explorer from Iceland and considered to be the first person to reach the North American continent around 1000AD.

Now if I had the time, I'd swing by the Golden Circle for a few days to see the Thingvellir National Park which is also a UNESCO site. Thingvellir is a rift valley where the North American and European continental plates separated. The nearby Thingvallavatn, is the largest natural lake in Iceland and reaches depths of 114m (374ft). On the northern shore of the lake is Silfra, a fissure filled with incredibly clear blue water. A perfect site for scuba diving and snorkelling. One of the diving sites is 100m (328ft) long with clear visibility from end to end.

However, I must end the journey here and as I travel homewards, I'll happily reflect on the natural and beautiful wonders I've experienced on this trip.



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Torres del Paine - Welcome Center

At the southern end of Chile on the continent of South America is the exquisitely pristine mountainous terrain of Torres del Paine National Park. Established in 1959, the park is filled with tall peaks, ample glaciers, turquoise lakes, rivers, plenty of wildlife and hundreds of species of flora. In 1978 the park was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

The name Torres del Paine translates as The Blue Towers, and it refers to the three famed granite towers that the park is named after. Located within the Paine Massif (aka Cordillera del Paine), The Towers are amongst a dozen or so other significant peaks within the mountain formation ranging from 6,560ft (2,000m) to 9,462ft (2,884m) in elevation.

The park and its two major trekking circuits are very popular with hikers. The "W Circuit" is the shorter route that as the name suggests travels in a "W" shape through two of the four valleys and beside Grey Lake close to Grey Glacier.

The "O Circuit" is a hiking trail around the entire massif, past several lakes, rivers and glaciers. The circuit was pioneered in 1976 by John Gardner with two local rangers when they successfully circumnavigated the massif. This is the journey I will be undertaking.

Beginning at the Welcome Center on the southeast corner of the massif, my journey will be heading anticlockwise, hiking north on the east side of the mountain. Following the river to Los Perros Glacier, I climb over John Gardner Pass and cross several suspension bridges. Once beside Grey Glacier, I will keep skirting around the mountain alongside Grey Lake on the westside, then Nordernskjold Lake on the southside and finish back where I started.

I anticipate gusty winds, shifting weather patterns and some tough trekking sections. Whilst I'll be happy to see a herd of guanacos on my travels, any puma sightings would be preferred from a distance.



Time to hit the trail.



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