Great Barrier Reef - Saunders Reef

Way up north and a long way east from the mainland is my final stop at the very remote and rarely visited Saunders Reef. Given its isolation, life beneath the water is brimming. The coral has a full spectrum of colour, showing it to be healthy and abundant.

As I travelled through this journey, I aimed to highlight some of the significant players found on the Barrier Reef. Given the many species living here, covering even a tiny percentage of it was impossible. Here are some statistics that give a little insight into the known species currently on the Reef:

● 3,000 species of mollusks (shells)

● 1,600 species of fish

● 600 types of hard and soft coral

● 140 species of sharks and rays

● 100 species of jellyfish

● 30 species of whales and dolphins

● 14 species of sea snakes

● 6 species of turtles

All these species need each other to survive, and we, in turn, need them. We rely on reefs to protect our shores, support local communities, and provide us with food. Certain species are used to develop medicine to treat illnesses such as arthritis, Alzheimer's, and heart disease. Substances like agar-agar, extracted from red algae, are turned into plant-based gelatin to thicken soups and make desserts. Alginate, a compound extracted from brown algae, is used to make dental impressions and cosmetics. We benefit significantly from the sea, but care must be taken as corals are at risk from human activities, pollution, damage, overfishing, and destructive fishing.

As living things - human, plant, and animal - we are all connected. In the words of the Woppaburra People, "All elements are here for a purpose; mankind, flora, fauna, we are all dependent upon each other.”

This was a wonderful underwater adventure and a valuable learning experience. I will say farewell to you now and see you the next time.



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Great Barrier Reef - Tijou Reef

With just over 100mi (160km) to go on my journey, I am now at Tijou Reef at the southern end of the Far Northern Reefs, the most remote part of the Great Barrier Reef. The Far Northern Reefs stretch all the way to Cape York, the northernmost point of the Australian continent.

No ocean journey is complete without talking about sharks, and Tijou Reef is the perfect location. The reef's northern tip has a dive site called Shark City, where reef sharks like to gather. The site isn't limited to sharks, as barracuda, trevally, mackerel, and tuna also visit the area.

Now a shark story often conjures some pretty gruesome thoughts. Has anyone ever watched Steven Spielberg's movie Jaws? A dive or snorkel on the Barrier Reef is generally nothing like that because the typical sharks encountered here are not dangerous to humans. However, the best advice is to always give them a wide berth and observe them from a safe distance.

The most common experience at Tijou Reef is seeing whitetip reef sharks. As the name suggests, the sharks have a white tip on their dorsal fin and tail. These slim-bodied predators have a hunting edge. As fish flee between small openings, they do not realize that a shark's flat head can fit within those spaces and snare them. Another advantage is that whitetip sharks can pump water over their gills while sitting motionless on the ocean floor. This is unlike the hammerhead sharks or great white sharks, who need constant motion to breathe oxygen.

Reef sharks are beneficial marine animals as they prey on weak or sick fish and help maintain the species below them in the food chain. Only strong fish survive, grow and spawn. A healthy fish population provides support to the ocean ecosystem and the fisheries.

Whitetip reef sharks are not very social but tend to gather in caves or crevices, seeking shelter from predators. When they sleep, they don’t mind being piled atop each other in packs. That’s a lot of cuddles.



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Great Barrier Reef - North Broken Passage

Symbiotic relationships are crucial for the survival of coral reefs and the animals residing within or around them. This relationship involves two different organisms living together where they might both mutually benefit or, at the very least, one of them benefit. The first great example is the polyp and zooxanthellae. The polyp relies on this relationship for food and the zooxanthellae for protection and a home. Giant clams also rely on zooxanthellae for nutrients, so the algae move in and live on the edges of the clams' enormous shells.

Another mentioned earlier was the remora fish with its specialised dorsal fin. The remora attaches itself to turtles, sharks, and others to hitch a ride and find food. In return, the remora cleans the parasites off its host.

While moray eels like to surprise their prey with their secondary jaw, when it comes to getting clean, they'll wait patiently for a bluestreak cleaner wrasse to do the job. When wrasses are ready to work, they'll do a dance to attract attention by moving their rear up and down.

The most well-known symbiotic relationship is between a clownfish and a sea anemone – remember Finding Nemo. Although there are over 1,000 anemone species, only ten can coexist with clownfish, and even then, only select pairs are compatible. Sea anemones are predators with stinging polyps that paralyze their prey before eating them. However, clownfish are protected by mucus layers that make them resistant to sea anemone toxins. In exchange for shelter, clownfish provide food and help clean the anemone of parasites.

An example of symbiosis where only one party benefits is in the case of the hermit crab. When looking for a home, it may search for a mollusk shell (ie, snail shell) that has been discarded. Since the mollusk has already moved out, it does not benefit from this relationship but is also not affected. For hermit crabs, the shell needs to be a perfect fit. The shell needs to have a curve or a coil so the crab's abdomen can fit in and be protected. The opening also needs to be just right, even if the shell itself is much bigger. Sometimes the crab's home will play host to sea anemones who are looking to hitch a ride, giving them access to food on their travels.

Perhaps the most humorous description of a symbiotic relationship is between a boxer crab and sea anemones. These funny-looking crabs have two anemones on their claws that look like boxing gloves, hence the name. They wave the anemones around whenever they feel threatened. Their alternative name pom pom crab is even more appropriate since the little anemones look like pom poms.

Symbiosis is an essential component of ocean life. Here plants and animals depend on each other for food, protection, shelter, transportation, and cleaning services. Symbiotic relationships are also a great measure of reef health. Coral bleaching is an example of where symbiosis has broken down, and the marine ecosystem is affected. Conversely, abundant marine life peacefully living with one another can indicate that all is well.



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Great Barrier Reef - Lizard Island

Remember at the beginning of my story when Captain James Cook ran his ship aground on what he thought was rock but was, in fact, the Barrier Reef? After weeks of repairing his ship, Cook searched for safe passage north. He sailed to Lizard Island, anchored off in one of the bays, and hiked up to the highest point, now called Cook's Look, on the northeast of the island to find a way out of the reefs.

Cook was responsible for naming Lizard Island. As you may have guessed, the only land animals he saw were lizards. There are 11 species of reptiles on the island. The most common one is the yellow-spotted monitor, seen wandering around the resort area but found all over.

Lizard Island is the northernmost and last resort island in the Barrier Reef. It is wonderfully pristine with crystal clear waters and an impressive 24 white beaches to frolic on. At the southern end is the deep Blue Lagoon encircled by fringing reefs and three smaller islands.

While Lizard Island is a fantastic haven to escape, it also holds some sad environmental events. Over the last six years, the island has been impacted by coral bleaching four times. Coral bleaching is a result of zooxanthellae being turfed out by polyps when they are under stress. When water temperatures rise, the zooxanthellae produce too much oxygen which the polyps cannot handle. When the zooxanthellae have left, taking the colour pigment with them, the polyps turn white, hence the term bleaching. Polyps can live without zooxanthellae for a short time, but without their food source, they eventually starve and die.

Halfway between Seabird Islet and South Island is a spot illustrating the effects of coral bleaching. Mounds of staghorn coral are devoid of colour, unlike the giant clam right next to it. Some of the Acropora gemmifera, a type of stony coral near the clam, are almost fluorescent purple. It looks stunning and is easily considered healthy, but the colour is a protein released by the coral acting like sunscreen against rising water temperatures. It’s like its final stand.

Some of the coral at Lizard Island have an opportunity to recover and repopulate, provided the weather conditions remain within a reasonable range. Only time will tell.



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Great Barrier Reef - Cod Hole

Another major highlight along Ribbon No. 10 Reef is the internationally recognised dive site called Cod Hole. The site is located at the northern tip of the reef and is home to a group of potato cod, also known as potato grouper. The cod got its name from the large potato-shaped markings on its body. Between its thick pouty lips and sad-looking eyes, it’s no wonder it has such a brooding appearance.

Like the minke whales, the potato cods are very friendly and curious. They are used to divers visiting, especially when they bring treats. Growing to 8ft (2.5m) and weighing as much as 220lb (100kg), they are pretty photogenic. They don't shy away from being photographed with divers.

Let’s go diving with a local cod and hang out with a school of sweetlips. There are close to a hundred of them swimming in tight formations. One of the reasons for that is to confuse predators, making it difficult to be singled out and preyed upon. Sweetlips have great colouring with their white body, black stripes, yellow fins, tail, and lips.

As I explored the seafloor, I discovered a black sea cucumber, named thus because it resembles a cucumber. Members of the Echinoderm family that include starfish and sea urchins, sea cucumbers are soft and almost slimy in appearance. They have rows of tiny tube feet that help them with locomotion, and around their mouth, they have a bunch of tentacles they use to capture their prey. These funny little creatures breathe through their rear because that's where their lungs open to extract oxygen from water. When they want to protect themselves, they expel a sticky, thread-like substance to ensnare their predators. Although not dangerous to humans, they can irritate the skin if handled without gloves.

If you're up for a little look 'n find, see if you can spot a Bicolor Chromis, a small black fish with a distinctive white tail swimming below and to the left of the cod.



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Great Barrier Reef - Ribbon No. 10 Reef

Ribbon No. 10 Reef is the last of the Ribbon Reefs and the longest. The Vertical Gardens are between reefs No. 9 and No. 10, with steep walls separated by a gently sloping bay. Strong currents can interfere with diving, but the marine and coral life here is plentiful. Amongst the coral are several giant clams in blue, green, and even frilly ones with angelfish, pink anemonefish and the strange looking but vibrantly coloured nudibranchs (type of sea slugs) flitting about. Sometimes white tip sharks cruise on by looking for their next dinner.

About a third of the way up from the Vertical Gardens, I had the most delightful encounter with a group of three minke whales. The whale in the middle was small compared to the rest and might very well be a calf. Minkes are inquisitive whales and love swimming close to divers and checking them out. They are beautiful creatures with an upside-down smile and are easily recognised by their black-to-grey tops, white belly, and white stripes on their flippers.

Minkes were elusive creatures discovered only in the 1980s. Initially, they were mistaken for being orcas until further investigation identified them as a brand-new species. While they are the smallest species of the baleen whales, they can reach 26ft (8m) in length and weigh a hefty six tonnes. Minkes are filter feeders that usually feed in sub-Antarctic waters or open oceans when migrating to tropical waters. They have never been seen to feed in the Great Barrier Reef.

Swimming with minkes is an exceptional encounter that is limited to only about six weeks a year when they are passing through on their migratory journey. A marine biologist once described the experience as "people watching," not "whale watching," because it is up to the minkes to decide whether they want to swim with divers or not. As they gracefully glide nearby, I count myself lucky to have this interaction with them. What a special treat!

Can you find the minkes? Look west of Ribbon No. 10 Reef's southern end.



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Great Barrier Reef - Ribbon No. 5 Reef

Located on the edge of the continental shelf, between Cooktown and Lizard Island, are a chain of ten individual reefs, referred to as Ribbon Reefs. They don't have fancy names; they are simply numbered from one to ten. The reefs are long and narrow, no wider than 1480ft (450m), separated by sandy gullies. The depths range from 16-98ft (5-30m), except on the side facing the Coral Sea trench, where they drop up to 3300ft (1000m), making for some exciting wall diving.

Several dive sites can be found along this 62-mile (100-km) stretch of ribbon reef, each offering its own unique experience. For instance, Reef No. 3 is known for Steve's Bommie, a submerged coral column towering over the reef platform. Reef stonefish are sometimes camouflaged between the corals. Fatal to humans, they are dangerous animals not to be trifled with.

Another fabulous bommie is at Reef No. 10, called the Lighthouse because it resembles one. Sea turtles use the bommie as a cleaning station, and schools of yellow-lined snappers and barracuda swim in abundance. Lionfish, olive sea snakes, and butterfly fish may make an appearance. Just keep a wide berth from the cool-looking but venomous lionfish, as they cause significant pain to humans.

Between Reef No. 4 & 5 are the Clam Gardens, home to giant clams. These massive two-part shell mollusks with a wavy colourful opening can live up to a hundred years and weigh as much as 440lb (200kg).

I chose to explore the north part of Reef No. 5 where visibility was clear and the coral colourful. Cruising by was a group of bumphead parrotfish. These odd-looking fish have a huge bump on their forehead and a beak-like mouth. They love eating algae which they source by biting chunks of coral. When the crushed coral digests, it gets excreted as sand. One parrotfish can produce up to 200lbs (90kg) of sand per year. Since they travel in large numbers chomping on coral all day long, imagine how much sand they make.

Can you spot the school of bumphead parrotfish or the black surgeonfish? Closer to the surface and harder to find are a handful of blackback and saddle butterflyfish.



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Great Barrier Reef - Agincourt Reefs

Another spectacular diving and snorkelling site is Agincourt Reefs, a collection of smaller reefs filled with colourful corals. Although they might appear like underwater rock gardens, these corals are actually living organisms. They are groups of tiny animals called polyps, the diligent workers that build our reefs. They have a sac-like body, a base that holds them in place, and a mouth at the top ringed with tentacles. On the edge of the tentacles are stinging cells that help capture their food in the form of zooplankton.

Inside a coral's tentacles are microscopic algae called zooxanthellae that absorb sunlight and convert it to food and energy, just like plants do. In return, the coral provides the zooxanthellae with a safe place to live. For this relationship to work, coral must live in shallow, warm waters giving the algae access to light to produce the food. The corals have transparent polyps, but the pigment that determines their bright colours is produced by zooxanthellae.

The Great Barrier Reef is home to more than 600 species of coral, a combination of both hard and soft. The hard corals are the reef-builders. They secrete calcium carbonate beneath their bodies that convert into rigid, rock-like structures. As the calcium carbonate builds up, the reef grows. One hard coral genus responsible for building many large reef structures is the Acropora. Recognisable species within the genus include plate coral, elkhorn coral, and staghorn coral. Other recognisable species are brain corals, mushroom corals and tube corals. Their common names are often representative of their shape, making them easier to identify.

The soft corals, however, cannot produce calcium carbonate, so they cannot contribute to the building process. Resembling trees and plants, soft corals tend to sway with the ocean currents. Beauties in this collection include the candelabra coral, fan coral, toadstool coral, sea whip, and soft tree coral.

Every year, when the moonlight, saltiness of the water, and tide are just right, trillions of fertilised eggs are released into the ocean. After dividing into larvae, they float around for days or weeks before attaching themselves to a hard surface. As they grow into polyps, they reproduce and multiply until a coral colony forms.

Come dive with me, and let's see how many types of corals we can discover.



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Great Barrier Reef - Norman Reef

I'm zigzagging across the Great Barrier Reef, first out on the shelf at Myrmidon, then back in the inner reef at Fraser Island, and now back on the shelf at Norman Reef. It is a small reef, but it is well-known as one of the best diving sites in the region.

Not wasting any time, I got in the water and started exploring. The visibility was excellent, letting in plenty of light on the corals. Large spreads of green lettuce coral were next to the fast-growing staghorn coral. There were helmet-shaped porites and plate corals that looked like dinner plates. Have you ever seen brain coral? They look just like brains! Many varieties are present, making identification a challenge.

Well, no matter because the green sea turtle gliding above the colourful coral garden was a fabulous distraction. It is one of seven species found on earth, of which six live within the Great Barrier Reef. The green turtle is a solitary creature, except for mating season, and is the most common turtle species seen on the Barrier Reef. While most turtles are omnivorous, green turtles are herbivorous as adults, eating algae and seagrass. Females may travel thousands of miles between feeding and hatching grounds. They often return to the beach where they were hatched to lay their own eggs, anywhere between 100-200 per hatch. The gender of the hatchlings is dependent on the temperature of the eggs. Those buried in deeper sand where it's cooler will hatch boys, whereas eggs laid in warmer or shallower sand will hatch girls.

Green sea turtles grow to about 5ft (1.5m) long, and their carapace turns completely brown at maturity with various patterns. Naming them "green" is not about their colour; it refers to the green fat that lies beneath their shell, resulting from their vegetarian diet.

Turtles are ancient creatures who lived with dinosaurs. The closest ancestor to modern sea turtles is Desmatochelys padillai. They lived during the Cretaceous period, around 120 million years ago, when reptiles ruled the ocean and were at the top of the food chain. It is hard to imagine sea turtles as apex predators, given that they are on the endangered species list these days. But there they were, hunting in the wild oceans alongside plesiosaurs and ichthyosaurs.

I am glad today's sea turtles are docile reptiles. It allows me to observe them without worrying about being the next meal.



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Great Barrier Reef - Fitzroy Island

Fitzroy Island is a continental island that was connected to the mainland until sea levels rose at the end of the last Ice Age. It is covered in lush tropical rainforests, granite outcrops, mangroves, and coral beaches.

The island can be explored on four walking tracks. They range from a short 25-minute hike on a rocky track through rainforests to a longer walk to the summit offering views of Green Island, the ocean, and migrating humpback whales in winter.

A variety of reptiles make Fitzroy Island their home. Due to the island's isolation, reptiles such as the yellow-spotted monitor are the apex predators, hunting for small mammals, birds, eggs, and lizards. Another common reptile on the island is the major skink, often found sunning on large boulders or scurrying across logs. Less appealing is knowing that there are several species of snakes, such as carpet python, spotted python, slaty-grey snake, and a couple of species of tree snake. The upside to this knowledge is that they are not dangerous to humans, but I would still give them a wide berth.

Many types of birds can be spotted on the island. There’s the solitary emerald dove rummaging on the forest floor or the snow-white pied imperial pigeon migrating from New Guinea to nest. An osprey may glide gracefully in the sky when it suddenly swoops into the ocean to catch fish in its sharp talons. But what would be even better is catching a glimpse of a Ulysses butterfly with its striking electric blue wings.

A visit to the Turtle Rehabilitation Centre is a lovely end to exploring the island. There, injured or sick turtles are cared for and helped to recover before being released back into the ocean.

The Centre also supports the Reef Restoration Project, which focuses on creating offshore coral nurseries on the island. Small amounts of healthy coral are collected and placed in the nursery, where they can grow and multiply faster than on the reef. The propagating process is very similar to taking cuttings from healthy plants and growing new plants. The Restoration Project has successfully planted more than 300 coral trees onto the reef. A fantastic effort considering they began in 2017 with only six coral trees.

Eager to get underwater again, I look forward to my next stop on Norman Reef.



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Great Barrier Reef - Myrmidon Reef

Patience is necessary when cruising for several hours across the Barrier Reef to reach the edge of the continental shelf. Sitting on the edge of the shelf is Myrmidon Reef.

The reef is within the Marine Park Green Zone, so no fishing is permitted in this area, making it an environment rich in marine life and a great diving experience. All sorts of fish can be found here: black and white snapper, shark mackerel, turrum trevally, and blue-spotted coral trout.

Much as I appreciate all types of marine life, the highlight at Myrmidon was the pod of bottlenose dolphins I encountered on the north side of the reef. These incredibly intelligent mammals are very social and playful and seem to have a permanent smile. Breathing through a blowhole at the top of the head, these gorgeous sleek, streamlined mammals can slice through the water at speeds of up to 14mi/h (23km/h). When they rest, they keep one eye open just in case a predator has something unsavoury in mind.

Dolphins are great communicators. They use a combination of echolocation, vocalization, and physical touch to get their message across. Gentle fin touching signifies affection, whereas a hard bump and aggressive charge typically says "back off." When they use echolocation, dolphins emit a sound wave that bounces off objects or other animals, revealing what is around them and how far and large it is. During a conversation, dolphins use different vocal pitches to recognise each other.

The best part about dolphins is that they like humans, and they've been known to rescue injured divers by pushing them to the surface. A great rescue story took place off the coast of New Zealand in 2004 when a small group of swimmers was suddenly encircled by a pod of dolphins. At first, the group thought it was nice to be so close and personal, but it didn't take long to realise something was amiss. Cruising toward them was a great white shark. The dolphins slapped their tails and created plenty of fuss until the shark turned away and left.

That's one great story I can get behind, but for now, I'm going to enjoy swimming with the dolphins and see how many there are. My total count came to 19; how many can you find? Check the underwater photography on Myrmidon.



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Great Barrier Reef - SS Yongala

Sitting in 100ft (30m) of water about half an hour from Alva Beach near Ayr is the century-old shipwreck, SS Yongala. A passenger steamer en route from Melbourne to Cairns, SS Yongala steamed into a cyclone and sank about 40 nautical miles south of Townsville. All on board perished, their remains still inside the wreck, making the SS Yongala an official gravesite. Since the mid-1990s, divers were banned from penetrating the shipwreck to protect its remains.

When Yongala didn't arrive by the end of March 1911, a search and rescue operation was activated to no avail. Debris was found along the mainland's coast, and the only body discovered was of the racehorse, Moonshine. As the Great War loomed, followed by the Second World War, the wreck of SS Yongala disappeared into obscurity. Sometime in 1943, a minesweeper snagged onto the wreck while checking for mines. Assuming it was just a shoal, no further investigation was undertaken.

Then in 1958, a couple of local skin divers came across the shipwreck and instantly recognised it as the SS Yongala. The ship was listing to starboard, and the bow was pointing north. Most of the wood had already disappeared, leaving only part of the deck and the iron hull but what remained was in remarkably good shape.

As the only underwater structure for miles, the SS Yongala became a haven to marine life, converting the wreck into an artificial reef encasing the hull in colourful soft corals.

Decked in diving gear, I jumped from the back of the boat and pulled myself down one of the mooring lines to the top of the wreck about 52ft (16m) below the surface. Visibility was excellent, and I was ready to explore.

Thousands of glass fish were around the wreck where Dendronephthya, a gorgeous pink soft coral, dominated the ship's topside. Among them were knotted fan corals, giant clams, and fiery-red sea whip. A little further, I watched a battery of barracudas on a mission and moray eels squirming out from their hiding place, searching for their food. Eels are fascinating creatures. Due to poor eyesight, they use their strong sense of smell to find their prey. They ambush them with sharp, piercing teeth that curve backward towards their throat, preventing the prey from escaping. If that wasn't enough, eels have a secondary set of jaws within their throat which lunge forward, grab hold of the prey, and pull it down, swallowing it whole.

Since the wreck is also a cleaning station, many megafauna regularly visit. Some of the more common guests are hawksbill turtles, marble rays, guitarfish, humphead wrasse, giant groupers, sea snakes, and on rare occasions, whale sharks and humpback whales.

The SS Yongala's journey ended tragically, but today it is one of the best dive sites on the Great Barrier Reef. It is so full of marine life that it is difficult to know where to look. Come for a look; what do you see?



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Great Barrier Reef - Whitehaven Beach

Whitehaven Beach is truly white and definitely a haven. The first thing I wanted to do when the catamaran arrived was jump in the aquamarine water. The water was so clear I could see the bottom for miles, and as soon as I touched the beach with my feet, I could hear the sand squeaking between my toes.

The sand was remarkably cool to the touch, somewhat unusual given the high temperatures. It is likely to do with its composition. Unlike any other beaches in the Whitsundays, where the sand is coarser, Whitehaven has fine white sand that is 98% silica. Geologists believe that the sand drifted along the Queensland coast, just like the sand on Fraser Island, millions of years ago. As the sea levels rose and fell, over time, the freshwater washed away any impurities leaving behind this perfectly soft sandy beach for us to enjoy.

At the north end of Whitehaven Beach was the entrance to Hill Inlet, composed of huge swirls of sand and pale blue-green water. Best seen from Hill Inlet Lookout, it was a short hike through dense rainforest. The views from the top were exquisite, with three viewing platforms providing different vantage points. Keeping my eyes peeled, I searched for the chance to see stingrays gliding in the clear waters below.

Not satisfied with just one lookout, I walked the length of the beach, about 4mi (7km) to the southern end. Once there, I hiked up to the South Whitehaven Lookout for views of the nearby Teague and Haslewood Islands.

Hanging out at Whitehaven Beach was heavenly. I enjoyed frolicking in its waters and checking out the tiny fish going about their business.



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Great Barrier Reef - Hamilton Island

Hamilton Island is located in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsunday Islands. Imagine swaying palm trees, white sandy beaches, and easily accessible coral reefs. The Traditional Owners of the Whitsundays were the Ngaro people. In the mid-1800s, Europeans settled in the region as sugarcane farmers, graziers, and loggers. By the late 20th century Hamilton Island was turned into a tourist destination. Privately owned, only a third of the island is developed. The rest remains in its pristine, natural condition.

Like my walk on Great Keppel Island, I chose to hike the many trails on Hamilton Island. Starting at the Scenic Trail Entrance near Catseye Beach, the first trail was to Resort Lookout. It is the second highest point on the island, with views over the resort, the marina, the airport, Dent Island and Henning Island.

Heading east towards Saddle Junction, I took a slight detour for a quick pit stop at Flat Top Hill Lookout, with views both north and south of the island. Back on the track at Saddle Junction, I took a southwest turn to reach the secluded Coral Cove beach with views toward Lindeman Island. I found an oversized swing chair in the sand here, a perfect place to sit and swing while enjoying the crystal-clear waters.

Back on the trail, I hiked through the junction again, taking an easterly turn to tackle the many stairs that led up to Passage Peak. It is the highest point on the island, with incredible 360-degree views of the Whitsunday Islands.

From Passage Peak, I travelled south through the dense bush that opened to rocky cliffs. Right at the trail's end was the scenic spot, South East Head, with an enormous wooden chair that just called for me to sit and take in the ocean views.

With my hiking complete, it was time to cool off at Catseye Beach. I plan to snorkel toward the reef, searching for turtles. I am told they love eating the seagrass here, so my chances of seeing one are very good.



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Great Barrier Reef - Coral reefs

The Great Barrier Reef has a story millions of years in the making. In ancient times the Reef was a coastal plain attached to the Australian mainland covered in eucalyptus and paperbark forests. Mainland animals roamed the area, and the Traditional Owners hunted for food. The plains had many large limestone hills, part of older reefs that had died out through previous mass extinction events.

Around 20,000 years ago, the earth's climate started to heat up, and the ice around the poles began to melt. Over time, the sea levels rose and eventually flooded this low-lying coast, shifting the mainland coastline to its current position. Coral reefs grew on the continental shelf's rocky edge, creating a natural barrier. The hills covered most of the way by water formed the numerous islands found today. Around the islands' coasts, fringing reefs developed. Shallow lagoons separate the fringing reefs from the islands. Fringing reefs are not limited to islands as they also grow along continental coasts. One such example is the Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia, which at 160mi (260km), is the longest fringing reef in the world.

The large body of water between the mainland and the continental shelf is a lagoon that varies widely in size, depth, and types of coral that live there. There are different zones of coral reefs depending on their location. The zone nearest to the mainland is a reef flat, where corals may be exposed due to shifting tides. Exposure to air for too long stresses the corals, impeding their ability to grow properly. However, marine life is abundant, with clams, oysters, crabs, and lobsters dominating. The next zone slopes upwards, called the reef crest. It is the highest point of the reef. When exposed at low tide, the reef receives the full brunt of the waves. Only robust corals can survive here, such as the coralline algae. This pinkish-encrusting seaweed grows in thin layers over stones and coral rubble. They act like a binding agent, stabilising the reef structure, reducing erosion, and providing shelter for reef dwellers. Past the reef crest is the last zone, the fore reef or outer reef. Warmed by ocean currents and sheltered from winds and wave actions, the fore reef is where most corals and the widest variety of them grow. Divers have a high chance of swimming with sharks and barracuda in this area.

The Great Barrier Reef is an incredibly complex ecosystem, and the above description of its composition barely scratches the surface. Still, I hope it provides an insight into this magnificent natural feature.



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Great Barrier Reef - Great Keppel Island

Pick a beach, any beach. There is no shortage of beaches on Great Keppel Island. As the largest of the 18 islands in the Keppel Group, it is surrounded by beautiful white sandy beaches and the bluest and most transparent waters.

The island's indigenous name is Woppaburra, meaning 'People belonging to the island.' Its traditional owners are the Woppaburra people, who inhabited the island until colonial settlers forcibly relocated them to the mainland in the early 20th century. Nearly 120 years later, the Woppaburra people were recognised as native titleholders of Great Keppel Island.

The Woppaburra people are from a wider Whale Dreaming Indigenous Community to whom the Mugga Mugga (humpback whale) is a sacred spiritual totem. They believe it is their responsibility to protect the whales and the environment they live in. As such, in 2007, they joined forces with environmentalists and governments by writing an open letter asking Japan to cease killing 50 humpback whales for "scientific purposes." The letter described in detail the spiritual significance of the humpback whale to their culture and the importance to "respect and honour all living things, in the circle of life." Following significant global pressure, Japan cancelled its plans.

Protecting the whales has had a positive impact as their population has grown. It is estimated that 15,000 whales migrate north each year to breed, nearly double when compared to the 8,000 in 2006.

Great Keppel Island has many water-based activities, from snorkelling to diving, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding to swimming in pristine waters. However, I chose to strap on my runners and head out on the island’s most challenging trail crossing it from west to east. The hike started as a leisurely walk on a flat trail when I reached the First Lookout with a few narrow views to the west.

Continuing, I kept an eye out for blue-tongue lizards and goannas basking in the sun. The trail passed the historical Leeke Homestead. It was built in the 1920s for Lizzie Leeke and her then-husband, who took over a grazing lease to raise sheep. When her husband left, she stayed until the mid-1940s, when she sold the property. Today, it is listed on Queensland's Heritage Register.

As I trekked through the bush and slowly climbed up the hill, the trail plateaued on a ridge. Heading to Bald Rock Point, the last section was devoid of vegetation. Feeling the blustering wind, I picked up the pace to reach the small lighthouse at the end of the point. Here I enjoyed views of the nearby islands, and I could just make out some of the Capricorn Group islands far off in the distance.

After a rest and a snack, I’ll start my journey back to the resort for a relaxing swim.



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Great Barrier Reef - Heron Island

As I enter a small man-made channel, heading towards the wooden jetty of Heron Island, I first pass by the sunken wreck of HMAS Protector, an 1884 Australian Royal Navy ship commissioned by the South Australian Government to defend its coastal borders. Built in Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, the boat made a long journey to Australia and served as a survey vessel for several years in China, followed by WW1 and WW2. In 1943, the ship was abandoned after it collided with a tugboat en route to New Guinea. Two years later, the wreck was purchased for ten pounds and towed to Heron Island to serve as a breakwater. Today it is home to the large seabird, the Brown Booby.

Like Lady Elliot Island, Heron Island is a coral cay of about 40 acres that appeared 6,000 years ago. There is no evidence of indigenous people ever inhabiting the island. The first European sighting was in 1816, but it wasn't occupied until the early 20th century, first by attempting to establish a turtle cannery that soon failed and later becoming a tourist destination.

For a small island, the vegetation is dense, and the forestry is diverse. Pisonia grandis, a flowering tree from the Bougainvillea family, dominates the central and southern parts of the island. To the northwest, the forest is more open, with Cordia subcordata as the flowering tree with pretty orange tubular flowers. The wild poinsettia, native to tropical America, has also been introduced and adapted well on the island. The vegetation is sparser on the northeastern side, where birds and animals dig nesting burrows.

The island is an incredibly important cay; each year, migratory birds such as the Black Noddies and Mutton Birds arrive in droves to breed. It is estimated that up to 200,000 birds may occupy the island during summer. At the same time, female turtles lay eggs, and as the hatchlings emerge, they head for the sea. In the winter months, humpback whales can be seen from the jetty. There is animal activity all year round on Heron Island. The hardest decision to make is which month to visit. For me, seeing the tiny green sea turtles hatch and waddle across the sand to the sea would be the absolute highlight.



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Great Barrier Reef - Lady Elliot Island

Lady Elliot Island is quite remote, and the only way to access it is by taking a small high-wing plane that lands on a grass airstrip a mere 1954ft (596m) long. As the only coral cay island in the Barrier Reef with an airstrip, only experienced pilots can fly there.
 

The island appeared about 3,500 years ago, and with the help of seabirds' droppings, it established vegetation on it. Sadly, in the late 1800s, guano (bird poo) mining was permitted on the island. Rich in nutrients, guano was a valuable fertilizer. It was also used as a gunpowder ingredient. The mining completely stripped the island of its vegetation, and it remained barren until the 1960s when aviator, Don Adams, began a successful revegetation program.

Within two decades, the island was restored; today, it is home to the manta ray. These graceful, gentle giants are the largest rays in the world. Utterly harmless to humans, there's no better place to observe them than either snorkelling or diving off Lady Elliot Island.

Heading out to the historic lighthouse on the island's southwest corner, I donned my snorkelling gear and immersed myself underwater straight off the beach. It didn't take long to find a squadron of manta rays floating around a coral garden. Although they typically live alone, manta rays do congregate around the mating season or for feeding. As filter feeders, they swim around with their mouths open, eating vast quantities of zooplankton. Each manta ray has a distinctive mark on its belly, much like a human fingerprint, allowing them to be distinguished from one another.

Manta rays love a good clean, so they regularly visit coral reef cleaning stations where remoras, tiny cleaner fish, remove parasites and flaky skin. A remora is fascinating anatomically as its front dorsal fin is flat. This allows the fish to suction itself to the smooth surface of a host animal like rays, whales, turtles, or sharks. It seems to be a mutually beneficial relationship as the remora provides cleaning services while the host protects them from other predators.

Come snorkelling with me and see how many manta rays you can find and what other interesting creatures inhabit this area. Can you see the two sea cucumbers curled next to each other on the ocean floor or the busy school of bigeye trevally flitting around one another? Have fun exploring, and I will see you on Heron Island.



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Great Barrier Reef - Fraser Island

When I think of Fraser Island, I associate it with three things: sand dunes, four-wheel driving, and the wreck of SS Maheno. This easily accessible UNESCO site was home to the Butchulla people, indigenous Australians who called the island K'gari, meaning paradise. They occupied the island for at least 5,000 years before Europeans arrived in the mid-1800s and removed and resettled them.

Separated from the mainland by the Great Sandy Strait, the island is the largest sand island in the world, measuring 76mi (123km) long and 14mi (22km) wide. It has some incredible sand dunes, the highest at 800ft (244m) tall. The sand is primarily grains of quartz (silica), creating a squeaky sound between the toes when walking on it. Millions of years ago, the area which is now Fraser Island had a low, hilly terrain created by volcanic activity. Winds, waves, and ocean currents from the southeast regions of Australia and even Antarctica, when it was a green and lush environment, carried sands across the continental shelf towards the mainland, creating several sand islands, of which Fraser Island is the largest. Year-round winds on the island cause the sand to keep moving, sometimes burying forests and other plant life. One example is the Hammerstone dune, located next to Lake Wabby. Initially, the lake was a stream that flowed to the sea, but the wind kept blowing the sand dune until it blocked the flow. As the sand dune continues to drift into the lake, it is predicted that the lake will cease to exist within a century.

One of Fraser Island's unique features is its tall rainforests growing in its sand. A most unusual combination since sand is sparse in nutrients. It is a fascinating chain of events where the nutrients from sea spray are captured in the air and then deposited on the sand. The fungi in the sand then transfer the nutrients to the plants. I cannot help but recall the iconic line from Jurassic Park, "Life finds a way."

The island has a fantastic array of plants with species including eucalyptus trees, kauri pines, mangroves, coastal heaths, and the king fern, which is known to have the world's longest fronds (up to 30ft/9m).

Amongst all this, there are over 100 freshwater lakes. It is Australia's second-largest concentration of lakes, with the most pristine, clear blue waters, including Lake McKenzie and its beautiful white sandy shores.

While the island has nearly 50 species of mammals, the most intriguing one is the dingo. A native wild dog of Australia, the dingoes on Fraser Island are one of the purest strains surviving today. They are very cunning and have medium-sized bodies designed for speed and agility. Who brought them to Australia is unknown, but they have been here for more than 8,000 years. Dingoes love to travel and swim and are often seen wandering along the beaches. As apex predators, they play an essential role in maintaining the island's natural balance by preying on feral animals and fostering the survival of native species.

Fraser Island is a magnificent place full of dunes for sandboarding, rainforests for hiking, lakes for swimming, and the "75-mile beach" for exciting 4WD expeditions. A beautiful video of Fraser Island



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Great Barrier Reef - Waddy Point

On the northeast coast of Australia lies the largest living structure on the planet, the Great Barrier Reef. Located in the Coral Sea, it stretches over 1,200mi (2,000km), and its width is between 37-155mi (50-250km). Made up of over 3,000 individual reefs and more than 600 islands, the Great Barrier Reef is so big that it can be seen from outer space.

The first European discovery of the Barrier Reef happened by accident in 1770. Captain James Cook was on a secret mission to explore Australia's east coast when he crashed his ship into solid rock only 12mi (19km) from shore. Cook and his crew scrambled throughout the day to plug a leak and save the ship from sinking. Fortunately, high tide on the following eve dislodged the boat from the rocky ledge back into deep water and sailed into safer waters for repairs. Cook didn't know at the time that the solid rock was a coral reef and that he stumbled on the Great Barrier Reef.

Thirty-three years later, Englishman Matthew Flinders circumnavigated Australia, and while sailing through a collection of reefs on the northeast coast, he promptly named it the Great Barrier Reef. It is a suitable name since the outer reef that sits on the edge of the continental shelf acts like a barrier, protecting the mainland from powerful waves and storms from the Pacific Ocean.

Aside from protecting Australia's shores, the Great Barrier Reef is an exquisite marine environment teeming with all kinds of fish species, colourful corals, lush rainforest-covered islands, shallow aquamarine waters, sandy shoals, and plenty of shipwrecks. It is also home to the "Great Eight" living icons: whales, manta rays, clownfish, turtles, potato cod, giant clams, humphead wrasse, and sharks. The reef is such an extraordinary place that it is Australia's tourism crown jewel and has earned its position on the:

● UNESCO World Heritage list;

● Seven Natural Wonders of the World list; and

● Australian World Heritage site.

Beginning at Waddy Point, a rocky headland on Fraser Island, I head north and start my long journey through the Great Barrier Reef. I look forward to island hopping and underwater exploration, swimming with dolphins, and checking out green sea turtle nesting grounds. I look forward to learning about the Traditional Owners and the impact of climate change on the reef's health. I am very excited to see what wonders the Great Barrier Reef holds.



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