Estrada Real - Paraíba do Sul

The city of Paraíba do Sul is situated on the banks of the Paraíba do Sul River in the state of Rio de Janeiro. It is one of the oldest hydrothermal resorts in the state.

The city was established in 1681 by Garcia Rodrigues Paes who was responsible for the construction of the Caminho Novo. When he discovered backwater on the river that was directly north of the city of Rio de Janeiro, Garcia made an agreement with the crown that he would build a road that would cut the travel time from Minas Gerais to Rio from three months to 15 days, which he did. For services rendered, the crown granted him farming lands along the road and a village charter. Garcia went on to discover gold, had a successful cattle farm and was promoted to General Mining Guard. By the time of his passing, Garcia was one of the wealthiest people alive during that time.

"One of the highlights in the city is the Renaissance-influenced mansion of Baron Miguel

 Ribeiro de Sá, a wealthy landowner who made his fortune from coffee plantations. Miguel was known for his philanthropic work, donating textbooks to schools and assisting financially in the construction of several churches and shelter homes."

The mansion was built in 1886 and today serves as the municipal government. The wide-fronted building is set on two floors with a stunning curving staircase leading to the upper entrance. On either side of the central door are four large windows with small cast iron balconies. Above the doorway is a triangular pediment with a detailed fresco representing the Baron’s coat of arms. The building’s facade is painted in a salmon pink colour with white trimmings. The mansion is surrounded by gardens, fountains and gazebos.

Heading out of town, I passed by an iron bridge of English origin spanning the Paraíba do Sul River. It was used for cargo transportation in the late 19th century but more recently it was part of a 9mi (14km) sightseeing tour of the city. The bridge has a fantastic truss structure but the view of the river was the real gem at this location.

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Estrada Real - Juiz de Fora

Nothing prepared me for the modernity of Juiz de Fora. It is a sprawling city filled with apartment blocks and high-rise buildings. With a population of nearly 600,000 people, the city is the fourth largest in Minas Gerais. Juiz de Fora is strategically located between the three major commercial cities - Belo Horizonte, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo – and also connects Brasília, the capital of Brazil with the harbour in Rio.

When it was initially established on the newly opened Caminho Novo, the city languished in its development, but as gold mining declined, investment shifted towards coffee production. Juiz de Fora has very fertile grounds and has greatly benefited from this new industry. The city’s wealth grew and was further enhanced by the arrival of a new railway and the first hydroelectric power plant in Latin America. By the 1890s, Juiz de Fora was the largest urban area in the state.

As coffee production moved towards São Paolo, industrial and textile manufacturing became the new economy, and by the early 20th century the city was the nation's major centre. However, all this would come to an end when the bulk of the city’s wealth was used to build the state’s capital. By the 21st century, particularly after the 1930s depression era, the city was in decline and remained that way for the better part of the century. Following Brazil’s economic boom, Juiz de Fora has re-emerged as a main centre, this time in the areas of telecommunications, higher education, textile manufacturing, retail, steel mills and automotive factories such as Mercedes-Benz.

Multicultural due to immigrants from Europe, the Middle East and China, the city has developed a wonderful variety of cuisines. Local flavours along with those from Germany, Italy, Portugal, the Middle East, China and Japan all intertwine in this cosmopolitan place. The greatest difficulty is choosing which one to have.

Of course, since I am in Brazil the local cuisine is of greatest interest. For any meat lover, one must try the Brazilian barbecue known as churrascaria, skewered meat that comes in a wide variety of cuts. Starting with a high-quality cut, the meat is slow-roasted rotisserie-style, locking in its juices and flavour. Similar to Greek gyros, once the top layer of the meat has browned, it is sliced off and served. A word of advice, the selections are endless and servings plentiful, this is an experience best shared with family and friends.

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Estrada Real - Barbacena

I made it to Barbacena, a mid-size city on the Estrada Real. Located in the foothills of the Mantiqueira Mountains, Barbacena is at an elevation of 3,727ft (1,136m), making it one of the ten highest cities in Brazil. Because of its elevation and cool climate, Barbacena is the most prolific flower producer in Minas Gerais, earning "City of Roses" as a nickname.

The city of Barbacena was founded in 1791 and by the 19th century it served as a distribution centre for the mining industry in Minas. When the railway extended beyond the city, Barbacena lost its position as a mining hub.

The surrounding area was agricultural, producing coffee, sugarcane, and corn. Today, it focuses on growing flowers, fruit and vegetables, and has two major textile factories.

The flower industry began in the 1950s by Italian and German immigrants. By the 1970s roses were exported to the US and several countries in Europe. When overseas importers defaulted on their payments, local exporters and suppliers went bankrupt.
 

A revival of the industry took place in the late 1980s with the start of a new company, founded by a German citizen who invested heavily in new technology, better irrigation, pruning and cold storage. The company took off and for a while was the largest employer in the city. By the mid-90s it closed its doors due to increased competition from neighbouring countries and Africa.

Fast forward to today and this time professional growers were recruited to train farmers in sustainable production and teach them how flower cultivation can be a profitable business. Next they upgraded all outdated technologies and processes, and started replacing underperforming rose varieties with better yielding ones. Finally, they reviewed their business management practices and reigned in their costs. With all these changes the flower growing industry is going through a revival once more.

In Barbacena, I rejoined the Estrada Real as the town is part of the Caminho Novo (New Path). Taking a southbound approach, I am ready to embark on the final leg of my journey and head for Magé in the state of Rio de Janeiro.

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Estrada Real - Santa Rita de Jacutinga

Near the state borders of Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro, lies the municipality of Santa Rita de Jacutinga. Surrounded by Atlantic Forest vegetation and mountainous terrain, the town is crossed by the Jacutinga and Bananal Rivers. Waterfalls abound in the area, some as deep as 20ft (6m) and are often used for rafting.

There was a steep trail east of Santa Rita that led to a hilltop chapel and a fabulous viewing platform of the countryside, the town and the parish church. After getting my fill of the views, I took an even steeper trail down to the bottom and back into town.

While strolling through the streets, I enjoyed taking my time exploring the town and slowly making my way to the parish church, Santa Rita de Cassia, from where I could see the small hilltop chapel in the distance. The parish church was built on donated lands in the 1950s. Constructed from large oat-coloured bricks, it has two towers with mint green and pale pink trimmings, a large central clock and arched windows. The mint green and pink colours are carried through the interior with lovely frescoes behind the altar and mosaic floor tiles that complement the simple overall décor.

I finished my day in a little café known for its delicious churros, a choux-based dough piped into hot oil, fried like doughnuts and rolled in cinnamon sugar. Found in many countries, each one has its own variation. The café’s menu had an endless list of gourmet versions. Each churro had white, milk or dark chocolate piped across the length of it. They were then topped with a variety of options from crushed nuts, chocolate sprinkles, kit kat, coconut covered rum balls and even smarties. Since I like my churros simple, I just settled for the authentic cinnamon sugar covered version.

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Estrada Real - Cruzilia

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Cruzilia served as a crossroad on the Estrada Real where tropeiros, prospectors, and salesmen passed through, travelling between the coastal cities and the interior of Minas Gerais. Today, it is renowned for its cheese and a museum about Brazil's own breed of horses.

The cheese factory’s history dates to 1948 when the owner, Jose Moreira de Almeida, ran a small stall in São Paolo but had big dreams of manufacturing his own cheese. Taking a ride along the Estrada Real, Almeida chose Cruzilia because of its favourable environmental conditions. There he began the production of all types of cheeses from soft brie and camembert to gorgonzola, cheeses of European origins like gruyere and emmental, and Brazilian specialties such as Minas spherical. Of course, I couldn’t leave without a few samples in my bag to snack on later.

My next stop was the Museum of Mangalarga Marchador Horse, which tells the story of Brazil's national horse. Cruzilia was the birthplace of this breed of horses with as many as half million of them spread throughout Brazil. The breed is a result of crossing Portugal’s highly valued Alter Real horses with local stock. The cross-bred horses are known for their elegance, beauty, docile temperament and riding suitability. The Mangalarga Breeders Association was founded in 1934 to ensure the preservation and registration of these unique bloodlines. As such, Marchador horses “must pass rigid standards for conformation, gait, performance and endurance”. Medium in height with silky coats the Marchador horse does not trot, moving from an ambling gait into a canter. Because of its willing nature and smooth gait, the Marchador horse makes for a pleasant ride on long journeys.

Satisfied with my learning experience, I pushed on towards São Lourenço.



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Estrada Real - Ouro Preto

The magnificent city of Ouro Preto is the junction of Estrada Real’s three major roads. Caminho dos Diamantes, the road I’ve been travelling since Diamantina ends here, completing the first section of this journey. For the next section I will be heading to Paraty on the Caminho Velho (Old Path).

The Old Path was the first official route on the Estrada Real connecting Rio de Janeiro to the mining region. Goods from Portugal were transported on this road into the interior while minerals made their way to the coast for onward shipment to Portugal. The tropeiros with their mule trains were the carriers and they would take up to 60 days to complete their journey.

Before I launched onto the Old Path, I explored Ouro Preto (meaning Black Gold), which prior to 1823 was known as Vila Rica (Rich Town). Ouro Preto was the second capital city of Minas Gerais until it was moved in 1897 to Belo Horizonte, the current capital.

Ouro Preto is a UNESCO site mainly due to the well-preserved colonial Portuguese architecture lining its winding cobbled streets. The churches were decorated with gold and sculptures designed by local artist Antônio Francisco Lisboa, better known as Aleijadinho. Ouro Preto's wealth attracted European intellectuals, who brought music, art, and philosophy to the city.

It was also the centre of a failed attempt to break away from Portugal. As gold mining declined, Minas Gerais was unable to meet its tax obligations to the crown. Inspired by the success of the American Revolution and subsequent independence of the Thirteen Colonies, a group of prominent individuals conspired to rise up in rebellion against Portugal. The objective was to turn Brazil into a republic and choose a leader through democratic elections. The conspiracy was subsequently discovered when insiders revealed the plan to the government. In the aftermath, a number of conspirators were exiled to Africa, some were acquitted, and a few were executed, including the leader known as Tiradentes.

One of the most significant landmarks in Ouro Preto is the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Both the structure and the interior’s carved decorations were designed by Aleijadinho, an accomplished architect and sculptor. Building began in 1760 in a Rococo style. Its interior is ornately decorated with gilded woodwork, frescoes, and sculptures. The stunning paintings on the ceiling were done by Mestre Atade, a colleague of Aleijadinho, hailing from the nearby city of Mariana. Above the single door entrance is an intricately detailed relief of St Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy – the St Francis Way is a pilgrimage trail inspired by St Francis’ life.

In 1969 two century-old higher education schools, the School of Mining among them, merged into the Federal University of Ouro Preto, transforming the city into a thriving university town. There's a fine collection of minerals, gemstones, and crystals at the Mining School's Mineralogy Museum. On site security is extremely high due to the gemstones' incalculable value.

There is so much more to see and explore but it’s time to move on as soon as I’ve indulged in a traditional Brazilian Carrot Cake. Delightfully light, the cake is very fluffy topped with a thin layer of chocolate.

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Estrada Real - Catas Altas

I rolled into Catas Altas with the anticipation of new curiosities. Situated amongst verdant rolling hills, Catas Altas is a small village. At the height of the Minas Gerais gold rush Catas Altas became one of the richest and most populous villages in Brazil. Once the mines were depleted most of the villagers left, leaving only a handful of residents.

I headed for the centre of town. Located in a public square was the Church of Our Lady of Conception with its wide frontage and corner towers facing the lofty Caraça Mountain. This church dates back to 1738, when the Portuguese controlled the interior and prohibited religious orders and missionary activities. The result was the development of new religious groups and the construction of churches. Our Lady's Church has a simple Rococo exterior, but it's richly carved inside with gilded carvings. The church was never completely finished, giving conservationists and historians an opportunity to study its architecture, the building techniques and the materials used.

A few miles northeast of the village is the Bicame de Pedra Aqueduct dating back to 1792. It was made entirely out of quartzite stone and its construction, inspired by Roman techniques of building without cement or mortar, can be observed in the centre of the portal’s arch where the stones are tightly packed together. The purpose of the aqueduct was to carry water from the Caraça Range to the town of Brumado, where gold was extracted and washed. Only about 200m of the wall remains with the highest point standing at 16ft (5m). A set of stone steps are embedded into the side of the wall allowing access to the top of the aqueduct.

As with most of Brazil, I didn’t have to travel far to find a waterfall. Taking a short side trip on my way out of town, I hiked to a scenic spot to enjoy the views of the valley, the railway track and the village with the Church of Our Lady proudly protruding above the rooftops. Before moving on to Ouro Preto, I enjoyed cooling off at Maquine Waterfall.

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Estrada Real - Ipoema

Ipoema is a tiny village known for two things: lots and lots of waterfalls, and the Tropeiros Museum. With only 2,000 inhabitants, travelling through the village was a breeze but not before I visited the museum.

Set in a small house, the museum tells the story of the tropeiros and their significant role during Brazil’s colonial period. The tropeiros were mule drovers and traders. When the gold rush began in Minas Gerais, the people who went there spent all their effort mining, leaving no time for farming nor the production of essential goods. The tropeiros filled that gap by bringing cattle, food and manufactured products into the interior. Travelling along well-known trails, their trips would take several weeks.

The tropeiro would be part of an entourage and responsible for seven animals that he would manage through specific shouts and whistles. Each animal carried about 260lb (120kg) and could travel up to 1860mi (3000km). During these journeys, tropeiros carried news from village to village when roads didn't exist, and distances were long.

They were identified by their clothing, wearing a flannel shirt, wide-brimmed hat, boots and a blanket across the shoulder. Each night they camped under a leather tent, cooking their meal, and keeping warm by the fire using their blanket for protection.

A favourite meal of the tropeiros was made from cassava flour, bacon, beans and dried meat. It has become one of Brazil's traditional dishes called Tropeiro Beans. Besides the simplicity of the meal, it is very hardy and easy to make.

As I pass by the statue of a tropeiro and his mule in Ipoema, I head for the nearest restaurant to order my own tasty plate of Tropeiro Beans.

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Estrada Real - Conceição do Mato Dentro

I made it to Conceição do Mato Dentro, a small city with about 20,000 people. Modern buildings lined the main street that ran through the centre of the city. About halfway down the main road, I found a quirky path that zigzagged up the hill to another street. Curious about what was at the top, I hiked up and came across another path, much wider that led to Bom Jesus de Matozinhos Sanctuary.

The sanctuary was built in the 1930s replacing an earlier dilapidated version. Whilst the building seemed somewhat stark, its cream brick façade with burgundy grouting gave it a unique look that was a little unusual for a church design. Gorgeous stained-glass windows ran along the church's length. Located high up on a hill, the sanctuary offered great views of the city and mountains.

Meandering through the streets I visited the various churches and chapels with their white facades and blue trimmings. One of them had a bandstand at the front and a marketplace behind where I could indulge in fresh produce, a touch of sweets and local crafts.

After an amble around a wooden townhouse that served as a jailhouse and town hall, I headed into nature to visit the numerous waterfalls surrounding the outskirts of the city. The most famous one nearby is Minas Gerais’ tallest waterfall, Tabuleiro Waterfall. At the top are more waterfalls and lakes whilst at the bottom is a 59ft (18m) deep pool surrounded by large blocks of stone.

About 27mi (45km) southwest of Conceição do Mato Dentro is the Juquinha sculpture. It’s quite big, measuring 9ft (3m) in height. Made of cement by a plastic artist, the large sculpture pays tribute to a local hiker who was renowned for picking flowers and offering them to passing tourists, sometimes in exchange for objects of interest. He was a simple mountain man who easily befriended travellers, becoming an increasingly popular and beloved figure. After he passed away in 1983, the statue was erected in Serra do Cipó National Park and today is considered a symbol and protector of the Serra.

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Estrada Real - Serro

Serro is a small town tucked away in the mountains and surrounded by rivers and dozens of waterfalls. The Jequitinhonha River, located about 7.5mi (12km) west of the city, begins its flow in the nearby mountain range of Pedra Redonda and flows northeast for 625mi (1000km) emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. The river played an important role in the 16th century when Brazil was briefly divided into two governments and the river was the dividing point between the two. The river was also the location where the first diamonds were mined, producing much of Brazil’s earlier wealth.

 Neat little single and double storey houses line the narrow streets, some with six feet tall, whitewashed walls. As I meandered through the streets I stopped at a white house with blue trims and mellow yellow window shutters. The chandelier-like planter hanging from the veranda’s ceiling carried small pots of string of pearls, a small succulent, creeping vine with leaves that looked like peas. I could imagine whiling away a few hours with a cuppa, enjoying the peacefulness of the street.

 

The city of Serro is known for its cheese. Producing semi-cured cheese, ricotta, mozzarella and others, it is most famous for the Queijo do Serro, an artisanal semi-hard cheese. The recipe was originally brought from Portugal in the 18th century and later adapted locally to create a cheese with “greater acidity, light color and soft consistency”. The cheese is so special in Serro that it was granted Geographical Indication status which grants protected status and naming rights to locally created food products. The downside of such a designation in Brazil is that the product cannot be sold outside the state of Minas Gerais.

Pardon me, but I'm off to get some crackers and Queijo do Serro. I'm mighty hungry and salivating at the thought of cheese. What are the chances I can enjoy a hot cuppa on the verandah with the cheese?

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Estrada Real - Diamantina

Imagine if you could hop in a time machine back to the year 1500 and were sailing from Portugal to India via Africa’s Cape of Good Hope but you sail too far west on the Atlantic Ocean and come across a massive landmass. That’s what happened to Pedro Alvares Cabral, a Portuguese fleet commander enroute to India. Making landfall, he believed he was on a giant island until he explored more of the coastline and realised he was actually on a continent, that being South America. He swiftly claimed the land for the Portuguese Crown that later came to be known as Brazil.

At the time of Cabral’s discovery, Brazil was occupied by indigenous tribes. Colonial settlement began thirty years later (c.1530) and the territory remained under Portuguese rule for the next 300 years until Brazil gained its independence. Today, Brazil is the only Portuguese speaking country in South America.

At first, Brazil was used as a coastal trade post, since the Portuguese had no interest in exploring the interior. Brazilwood, a tree that produces red dye, was traded with the local natives and exported to Europe. The colony then turned its focus on sugar production which became Brazil’s primary industry. Export of sugar began to decline by 1700 AD just as minerals, precious metals and stones were discovered in the mountainous state of Minas Gerais (Minas), in the southeast of Brazil.

Fortune seekers rushed to Minas in search of gold. A few years later diamonds were also found. Mining for precious metals and gems became the new economic activity in Brazil but the difficulty was in safely transporting them to the ports for onward passage to Portugal. Smugglers and pirates were plentiful and in order to protect the colonial assets the Crown built three main roads - Caminho Velho, Caminho Novo and Caminho dos Diamantes - and a minor one, collectively referred to as Estrada Real (the Royal Road).

My journey focuses on the three main roads beginning in Diamantina, at the northernmost point of Caminho dos Diamantes (the Diamond Path). Built on the side of a steep valley, Diamantina was founded in 1713 and grew to prominence 16 years later when diamonds were discovered in the area. As the city flourished, cobblestone streets and colourful semi-detached houses went up. Influenced by Portuguese architecture, Diamantina’s buildings were made of wood, a unique difference from other Brazilian towns. The windows were colourfully trimmed and decorated with small iron balconies from where one could take in the sites.

Diamantina’s historic centre is a reminder of the early explorers who braved the interior in search of diamonds and their ability to adapt to new environments. In recognition of this, the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Enjoying the narrow streets and gorgeous buildings, I meandered my way through them towards the end of the city and out into the countryside heading for Serro.



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