During the 17th and 18th centuries, Cruzilia served as a crossroad on the Estrada Real where tropeiros, prospectors, and salesmen passed through, travelling between the coastal cities and the interior of Minas Gerais. Today, it is renowned for its cheese and a museum about Brazil's own breed of horses.
The cheese factory’s history dates to 1948 when the owner, Jose Moreira de Almeida, ran a small stall in São Paolo but had big dreams of manufacturing his own cheese. Taking a ride along the Estrada Real, Almeida chose Cruzilia because of its favourable environmental conditions. There he began the production of all types of cheeses from soft brie and camembert to gorgonzola, cheeses of European origins like gruyere and emmental, and Brazilian specialties such as Minas spherical. Of course, I couldn’t leave without a few samples in my bag to snack on later.
My next stop was the Museum of Mangalarga Marchador Horse, which tells the story of Brazil's national horse. Cruzilia was the birthplace of this breed of horses with as many as half million of them spread throughout Brazil. The breed is a result of crossing Portugal’s highly valued Alter Real horses with local stock. The cross-bred horses are known for their elegance, beauty, docile temperament and riding suitability. The Mangalarga Breeders Association was founded in 1934 to ensure the preservation and registration of these unique bloodlines. As such, Marchador horses “must pass rigid standards for conformation, gait, performance and endurance”. Medium in height with silky coats the Marchador horse does not trot, moving from an ambling gait into a canter. Because of its willing nature and smooth gait, the Marchador horse makes for a pleasant ride on long journeys.
Satisfied with my learning experience, I pushed on towards São Lourenço.
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Ipoema is a tiny village known for two things: lots and lots of waterfalls, and the Tropeiros Museum. With only 2,000 inhabitants, travelling through the village was a breeze but not before I visited the museum.
Set in a small house, the museum tells the story of the tropeiros and their significant role during Brazil’s colonial period. The tropeiros were mule drovers and traders. When the gold rush began in Minas Gerais, the people who went there spent all their effort mining, leaving no time for farming nor the production of essential goods. The tropeiros filled that gap by bringing cattle, food and manufactured products into the interior. Travelling along well-known trails, their trips would take several weeks.
The tropeiro would be part of an entourage and responsible for seven animals that he would manage through specific shouts and whistles. Each animal carried about 260lb (120kg) and could travel up to 1860mi (3000km). During these journeys, tropeiros carried news from village to village when roads didn't exist, and distances were long.
They were identified by their clothing, wearing a flannel shirt, wide-brimmed hat, boots and a blanket across the shoulder. Each night they camped under a leather tent, cooking their meal, and keeping warm by the fire using their blanket for protection.
A favourite meal of the tropeiros was made from cassava flour, bacon, beans and dried meat. It has become one of Brazil's traditional dishes called Tropeiro Beans. Besides the simplicity of the meal, it is very hardy and easy to make.
As I pass by the statue of a tropeiro and his mule in Ipoema, I head for the nearest restaurant to order my own tasty plate of Tropeiro Beans.
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