Estrada Real - Magé

It’s been a long journey, travelling through mountainous terrain, alongside rivers, through villages and cities. I arrived in Magé where the Estrada Real ended.

Historically, Magé played a very important role in the development of Brazil, being one of the first towns to emerge after its discovery in 1500. Magé began as a village in 1566 under the name Magepe-Mirim. Located on the Guanabara Bay, Magé’s economic activity centred around maritime trading. As Magé prospered it was elevated to parish status and by 1857 it was granted city status.

The first railway in South America was built here when the Mauá railroad connected Guia de Copaiba on the coast to Fragoso (both districts of Magé) over a track length of 9mi (15km). This was the beginning of railroad building that would eventually carry imported goods to the mining regions of Minas Gerais. Magé was the busiest port in colonial Brazil where extracted gold from Minas was shipped to Portugal.

With the abolition of slavery, former slaves left the region and most of the plantations disappeared. Thus began a gradual decline in the area until the 20th century when textile manufacturing moved in.

Today, there’s little evidence of its prosperous years, except for remnants of a railway turntable, a small station and a short section of narrow-gauge rail track at the end of a pier that at one time would have been part of a port.

It seemed fitting to finish here at the end of the railway track overlooking the bay. I imagine how busy the port was hundreds of years ago as ships sailed in with Portuguese goods and sailed out with gold and other treasures. A lot has changed, cities have grown and developed yet at the same time many have remained the same. Some may seem as if they’re stuck in a time capsule, others protect and preserve their history for future generations.

On that note I bid you farewell.



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Estrada Real - Petropolis

Located in the foothills of the Serra dos Orgaos National Park, Petropolis served as the summer residence of the Brazilian Emperors during the 19th century. The town’s name, the "city of Peter" was in honour of Pedro II the last Emperor of Brazil. Reigning for 58 years, the emperor brought economic stability, prosperity and international standing to the country. He championed civil rights and freedom of speech, was a supporter of the arts and sciences and pushed for the abolition of slavery, which was decreed in 1888, ending the practice after 350 years. His reign came to an end when after a sudden coup d’état, the monarchy was abolished, giving rise to the First Brazilian Republic (aka the Old Republic).

In 1894, Petropolis became the official capital of the state of Rio de Janeiro and held that position for eight years when it was replaced by the city of Rio.

Nicknamed the Imperial City, there are a great number of significant buildings belonging to the imperial period, such as the Imperial Museum, previously the Petropolis Imperial Palace, the summer residence of Pedro II. Constructed between 1845-1862, the Palace is a Neoclassical building surrounded by gardens containing more than 100 species of trees and flowers from all around the world. The entire construction was paid for by the emperor’s personal funds. He greatly believed that state funds should not be used for personal property. The Palace was converted into a museum, housing artefacts belonging to the monarchy, including the Imperial Crown of Brazil. An enormous library preserves a collection of 50,000 volumes and more than 250,000 original documents dating back to the 13th century. Pedro II was a prolific reader, and a great number of rare books held by the library belonged to the Imperial family.

Another historically significant, as well as beautiful, building is the Quitandinha Palace. Built in 1944 as a luxury casino hotel, when it opened it was the largest casino hotel in Latin America. It was also the site of the 1947 Rio Treaty, an “agreement binding the republics of the Western Hemisphere together in a mutual defense system”.

The façade has a white Norman-French style with a Brazilian Baroque and Art Deco interior. The nearby artificial lake was built to provide a source of water in case of fire. When gambling was outlawed in 1946, the casino had to be closed. The hotel entertained notable figures such as Eva Peron, Henry Ford, Errol Flynn, Greta Garbo, Brazil President Getulio Vargas and King Carol II of Romania. The hotel closed in 1962 and its 440 rooms were sold as private residences.

Having worked up an appetite I went looking for a good feed. Being close to the coast where seafood is popular, I settled on a stew called Moqueca made with shrimp, tomatoes, onions, garlic, lime and coriander powering me up enough to get me to Magé.



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Estrada Real - Paraíba do Sul

The city of Paraíba do Sul is situated on the banks of the Paraíba do Sul River in the state of Rio de Janeiro. It is one of the oldest hydrothermal resorts in the state.

The city was established in 1681 by Garcia Rodrigues Paes who was responsible for the construction of the Caminho Novo. When he discovered backwater on the river that was directly north of the city of Rio de Janeiro, Garcia made an agreement with the crown that he would build a road that would cut the travel time from Minas Gerais to Rio from three months to 15 days, which he did. For services rendered, the crown granted him farming lands along the road and a village charter. Garcia went on to discover gold, had a successful cattle farm and was promoted to General Mining Guard. By the time of his passing, Garcia was one of the wealthiest people alive during that time.

"One of the highlights in the city is the Renaissance-influenced mansion of Baron Miguel

 Ribeiro de Sá, a wealthy landowner who made his fortune from coffee plantations. Miguel was known for his philanthropic work, donating textbooks to schools and assisting financially in the construction of several churches and shelter homes."

The mansion was built in 1886 and today serves as the municipal government. The wide-fronted building is set on two floors with a stunning curving staircase leading to the upper entrance. On either side of the central door are four large windows with small cast iron balconies. Above the doorway is a triangular pediment with a detailed fresco representing the Baron’s coat of arms. The building’s facade is painted in a salmon pink colour with white trimmings. The mansion is surrounded by gardens, fountains and gazebos.

Heading out of town, I passed by an iron bridge of English origin spanning the Paraíba do Sul River. It was used for cargo transportation in the late 19th century but more recently it was part of a 9mi (14km) sightseeing tour of the city. The bridge has a fantastic truss structure but the view of the river was the real gem at this location.

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Estrada Real - Juiz de Fora

Nothing prepared me for the modernity of Juiz de Fora. It is a sprawling city filled with apartment blocks and high-rise buildings. With a population of nearly 600,000 people, the city is the fourth largest in Minas Gerais. Juiz de Fora is strategically located between the three major commercial cities - Belo Horizonte, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo – and also connects Brasília, the capital of Brazil with the harbour in Rio.

When it was initially established on the newly opened Caminho Novo, the city languished in its development, but as gold mining declined, investment shifted towards coffee production. Juiz de Fora has very fertile grounds and has greatly benefited from this new industry. The city’s wealth grew and was further enhanced by the arrival of a new railway and the first hydroelectric power plant in Latin America. By the 1890s, Juiz de Fora was the largest urban area in the state.

As coffee production moved towards São Paolo, industrial and textile manufacturing became the new economy, and by the early 20th century the city was the nation's major centre. However, all this would come to an end when the bulk of the city’s wealth was used to build the state’s capital. By the 21st century, particularly after the 1930s depression era, the city was in decline and remained that way for the better part of the century. Following Brazil’s economic boom, Juiz de Fora has re-emerged as a main centre, this time in the areas of telecommunications, higher education, textile manufacturing, retail, steel mills and automotive factories such as Mercedes-Benz.

Multicultural due to immigrants from Europe, the Middle East and China, the city has developed a wonderful variety of cuisines. Local flavours along with those from Germany, Italy, Portugal, the Middle East, China and Japan all intertwine in this cosmopolitan place. The greatest difficulty is choosing which one to have.

Of course, since I am in Brazil the local cuisine is of greatest interest. For any meat lover, one must try the Brazilian barbecue known as churrascaria, skewered meat that comes in a wide variety of cuts. Starting with a high-quality cut, the meat is slow-roasted rotisserie-style, locking in its juices and flavour. Similar to Greek gyros, once the top layer of the meat has browned, it is sliced off and served. A word of advice, the selections are endless and servings plentiful, this is an experience best shared with family and friends.

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Estrada Real - Barbacena

I made it to Barbacena, a mid-size city on the Estrada Real. Located in the foothills of the Mantiqueira Mountains, Barbacena is at an elevation of 3,727ft (1,136m), making it one of the ten highest cities in Brazil. Because of its elevation and cool climate, Barbacena is the most prolific flower producer in Minas Gerais, earning "City of Roses" as a nickname.

The city of Barbacena was founded in 1791 and by the 19th century it served as a distribution centre for the mining industry in Minas. When the railway extended beyond the city, Barbacena lost its position as a mining hub.

The surrounding area was agricultural, producing coffee, sugarcane, and corn. Today, it focuses on growing flowers, fruit and vegetables, and has two major textile factories.

The flower industry began in the 1950s by Italian and German immigrants. By the 1970s roses were exported to the US and several countries in Europe. When overseas importers defaulted on their payments, local exporters and suppliers went bankrupt.
 

A revival of the industry took place in the late 1980s with the start of a new company, founded by a German citizen who invested heavily in new technology, better irrigation, pruning and cold storage. The company took off and for a while was the largest employer in the city. By the mid-90s it closed its doors due to increased competition from neighbouring countries and Africa.

Fast forward to today and this time professional growers were recruited to train farmers in sustainable production and teach them how flower cultivation can be a profitable business. Next they upgraded all outdated technologies and processes, and started replacing underperforming rose varieties with better yielding ones. Finally, they reviewed their business management practices and reigned in their costs. With all these changes the flower growing industry is going through a revival once more.

In Barbacena, I rejoined the Estrada Real as the town is part of the Caminho Novo (New Path). Taking a southbound approach, I am ready to embark on the final leg of my journey and head for Magé in the state of Rio de Janeiro.

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Estrada Real - Santa Rita de Jacutinga

Near the state borders of Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro, lies the municipality of Santa Rita de Jacutinga. Surrounded by Atlantic Forest vegetation and mountainous terrain, the town is crossed by the Jacutinga and Bananal Rivers. Waterfalls abound in the area, some as deep as 20ft (6m) and are often used for rafting.

There was a steep trail east of Santa Rita that led to a hilltop chapel and a fabulous viewing platform of the countryside, the town and the parish church. After getting my fill of the views, I took an even steeper trail down to the bottom and back into town.

While strolling through the streets, I enjoyed taking my time exploring the town and slowly making my way to the parish church, Santa Rita de Cassia, from where I could see the small hilltop chapel in the distance. The parish church was built on donated lands in the 1950s. Constructed from large oat-coloured bricks, it has two towers with mint green and pale pink trimmings, a large central clock and arched windows. The mint green and pink colours are carried through the interior with lovely frescoes behind the altar and mosaic floor tiles that complement the simple overall décor.

I finished my day in a little café known for its delicious churros, a choux-based dough piped into hot oil, fried like doughnuts and rolled in cinnamon sugar. Found in many countries, each one has its own variation. The café’s menu had an endless list of gourmet versions. Each churro had white, milk or dark chocolate piped across the length of it. They were then topped with a variety of options from crushed nuts, chocolate sprinkles, kit kat, coconut covered rum balls and even smarties. Since I like my churros simple, I just settled for the authentic cinnamon sugar covered version.

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Estrada Real - Lidice

Encircled by the Parado River, Lidice is a small district of Rio Claro. Formerly known as Santo Antônio do Capivari, in 1944 the district changed its name in honour of the Czech village that was decimated by the Nazis two years earlier as retaliation for the assassination of one of Hitler’s SS Generals. Hitler suspected that the villagers were harbouring the assassins and he wanted to make an example of them by razing the village and executing or imprisoning its citizens. His overall intent was to erase the village from history. To ensure that the memory of the village remained alive, communities in the United States, Panama, and this district in Brazil changed their names to Lidice.

In the central square of Lidice is a 16ft (5m) tall bronze monument of a phoenix representing the Czech village’s rise from the ashes. It also “symbolizes the friendship between the people and peace among nations”. The nearby Cultural Centre exhibits various Czech artifacts, artworks and traditional puppets.

On my way out of town I stopped at a local bakery for a snack when I discovered that from its rear balcony, I was able to enjoy a bird's-eye view of Lidice's verdant valley with its gently curling river and the mountainous region beyond.

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Estrada Real - Taquari

Taquari is a small coastal town situated in the foothills of the Serra da Bocaina National Park. It is surrounded by nature, mangroves, beaches and gorgeous waterfalls. Taquari River flows adjacent to the northside of the town, then snakes through forestry before crossing the isolated, sandy Taquari Beach and emptying into Paraty Bay.

Established in 1971, the National Park is one of the largest protected areas in the Atlantic Forest. Encompassing about 106,000 hectares, nearly 60% of the vegetation is Atlantic Forest. The park is a combination of mountain range, sea level and coastline making it a diversified landscape that contains a wide variety of flora and fauna, many of them endemic to the area and/or endangered.

Three types of vegetation form the park, of which the palm species Euterpe edulis and the tree fern Dicksonia sellowiana, both formerly in abundance, are now rare and endangered due to illegal logging. Within its vast greenness, the park comes into colour with endemic flora species such as arums, orchids and bromeliads, as well as cacti and a variety of ferns.

There is a multitude of wildlife within the park from big cats such as pumas and jaguars, to primates like the endangered muriquis and dark-shouldered marmoset. Crab-eating foxes and red deer can be found in open areas or on the edges of the forest. The park has officially registered over 300 species of birds where the king vulture and the grey eagle are threatened with extinction, and woodpeckers are pecking away at the bark. Amphibians and invertebrates are aplenty with two butterfly species listed as endangered.

Taquari is a small and quiet place. It is a great place to use as a base for exploring the park, finding some waterfalls or heading to the beach for a dip in the sea.

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Estrada Real - Paraty

Emerging from the hinterland I was delighted to reach the coastal town of Paraty in the state of Rio de Janeiro. Located on the Bay of Ilha Grande, which is dotted with islands, the town is surrounded by lush tropical forests, mountains and waterfalls. Paraty is the end point of the Caminho Velho (Old Path) and I successfully completed the second leg of my journey.

Designated a UNESCO site in 2019, Paraty is a wonderfully preserved colonial town with cobbled streets. To protect the cobblestones, vehicles are prohibited in the historic centre. Only foot traffic and bikes are allowed, and horses and carts are frequently seen.

Settled by colonists in 1667, Paraty became an important port for exporting the gold mined in Minas to Lisbon, Portugal. Prior to the currently known Estrada Real, Portugal constructed the Caminho do Ouro (the Gold Trail), a 746mi (1200km) stone road connecting Diamantina via Ouro Preto to Paraty. As pirate attacks increased on gold laden ships, the government built the New Path, a safer overland route from Minas to Rio, completely by-passing Paraty.

With the new road in place and subsequent decline of gold in the late 18th century, Paraty was forgotten and frozen in time. The town was rediscovered when a main road was built between Rio and Santos passing through Paraty.

An interesting phenomenon occurs each month on a full moon. When the tide is high, water spills into the historic centre through openings in the seawalls, flooding the streets for a brief period of time. People living close to the seawalls will sometimes put out temporary bridges to help pedestrians cross the flooded streets.

Given its coastal location, Paraty has numerous stunning beaches that are easily reached on foot or by car. A handful of secluded beaches are also accessible via hiking trails or by boat. There are so many beach options that I am having a hard time deciding on where to go. But once done, I will head northeast to Barbacena where I will connect with Caminho Novo (New Path).



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Estrada Real - São Guaratingueta

Guaratingueta is a well-established city in the state of São Paolo. It gets its name from a phrase in the Tupi language that means "many white herons" due to the abundance of herons along the Paraiba do Sul River that flows around the southern and eastern edge of the city.

Drawn to the minerals hidden in the Minas Gerais, the Portuguese arrived in the 16th century and settled the area. By the 18th century it became a supply station for those travelling from the interior and another century later grew as a coffee producer. For a period of time during the mid-1800s coffee was used as hard currency, increasing the city’s wealth and standing. Immigration in the city increased with the introduction of the steam railway, providing much needed manpower especially as slavery was abolished.

By the 20th century arable lands were depleted of their nutrients and coffee production was in decline. Economic attention was geared towards industrialisation, commerce, tourism and education. New universities sprung up with courses geared towards aeronautics, technology and engineering.

A notable figure from Guaratingueta was cardiologist Euryclides de Jesus Zerbini, who in 1963 established the internationally recognised Heart Institute in São Paolo and in 1968 performed the first heart transplant in South America.

Tucked away on the outskirts of the city is the Frei Galvão Sanctuary where a white life-sized statue of Friar Galvão stands on a pedestal outside the entrance. Born locally in 1739, the friar entered a Jesuit-seminary when he was 13 years old and later joined a Franciscan Order.

During his lifetime, the friar built a church, a hermitage and friary. He spent considerable time as preacher, confessor, spiritual leader, and friary porter, as well as drafting guidelines on how to live a religious life. Dedicated to his work, the friar grew within the Order’s ranks. However, his construction of the hermitage did not come without any challenges. Politicians who disliked the community intervened more than once, but the friar was committed to the cause and with the Portuguese Viceroy’s assistance the hermitage was finally completed. Today, the hermitage is a UNESCO site and a museum of sacred art. In 2007, the friar was canonised by the Vatican making him the first Brazilian-born person to obtain this status.



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Estrada Real - São Lourenço

Nestled amongst hills, São Lourenço is a built-up modern city with wide roads, high-rise buildings and a bustling city centre. It is renowned for its mineral springs and is part of the Minas Gerais Spa Circuit, a set of hydro-mineral resorts that includes Caxambu, a town on the Estrada Real just north of São Lourenço.

The Parque das Aguas was founded in 1936 and consists of nine natural springs each with their own therapeutic and medicinal properties. Within the park’s 430,000m² are several species of fauna from sweet little hummingbirds to toucans, herons and peacocks. Keeping my eyes peeled on the trees I could hear the Atlantic titi rustling amongst the branches. These small New World monkeys are endemic to Brazil. They are tree monkeys rarely found on the forest floor, keeping themselves safe from snakes.

Just like the heritage train and railway in Tiradentes, São Lourenço has its own steam locomotive referred to as Maria-Fumaça pulling passenger carriages on a scenic round trip to Soledade de Minas about 6mi (10km) west from the station. The ride travels close to Rio Verde and is quiet and tranquil, interrupted occasionally by guitar players who move between carriages to entertain the guests.

To wrap up my time in São Lourenço, I took a quick side trip outside of town to visit a quirky looking chapel known as Capela Nhá Chica. It is made entirely out of large mosaic pieces, including the busts and statues that adorn the chapel’s boundary and internal courtyard. The chapel is dedicated to Nhá Chica, a 19th century freed slave who devoted her life to the poor. Although illiterate, Nhá Chica set about gathering donations to build a chapel in her hometown of Baependi – about 15mi (24km) northeast from here – and gained a reputation for her wise counsel and effectiveness of her prayers. Living a dedicated and humble life, Nhá Chica was beatified in mid-2013, becoming the first Afro-Brazilian woman to be granted this status by the Vatican.

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Estrada Real - Cruzilia

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Cruzilia served as a crossroad on the Estrada Real where tropeiros, prospectors, and salesmen passed through, travelling between the coastal cities and the interior of Minas Gerais. Today, it is renowned for its cheese and a museum about Brazil's own breed of horses.

The cheese factory’s history dates to 1948 when the owner, Jose Moreira de Almeida, ran a small stall in São Paolo but had big dreams of manufacturing his own cheese. Taking a ride along the Estrada Real, Almeida chose Cruzilia because of its favourable environmental conditions. There he began the production of all types of cheeses from soft brie and camembert to gorgonzola, cheeses of European origins like gruyere and emmental, and Brazilian specialties such as Minas spherical. Of course, I couldn’t leave without a few samples in my bag to snack on later.

My next stop was the Museum of Mangalarga Marchador Horse, which tells the story of Brazil's national horse. Cruzilia was the birthplace of this breed of horses with as many as half million of them spread throughout Brazil. The breed is a result of crossing Portugal’s highly valued Alter Real horses with local stock. The cross-bred horses are known for their elegance, beauty, docile temperament and riding suitability. The Mangalarga Breeders Association was founded in 1934 to ensure the preservation and registration of these unique bloodlines. As such, Marchador horses “must pass rigid standards for conformation, gait, performance and endurance”. Medium in height with silky coats the Marchador horse does not trot, moving from an ambling gait into a canter. Because of its willing nature and smooth gait, the Marchador horse makes for a pleasant ride on long journeys.

Satisfied with my learning experience, I pushed on towards São Lourenço.



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Estrada Real - Carrancas

Surrounded by mountains and waterfalls, Carrancas is a small agricultural village. In the early 1700s a number of families, hailing from São Paolo headed into the interior looking for gold. Arriving in the region of Carrancas they found the land fertile and hoped to discover gold. Settling down, the first structure built was a chapel, and the village was named Nossa Senhora do Rio Grande. The village went through several name changes until it settled on Carrancas. As the village grew, agriculture developed, including bananas, corn, coffee and beans, as well as dairy and cattle farming.

The gold rush era passed and although gold was never found in the area, Carrancas gained its reputation as the land of waterfalls drawing visitors to its crystalline waters. A large number of waterfalls are located close to each other, making planning essential. 

When narrowing down my options, I chose Esmeralda Waterfall for its clear, emerald-green pool. Another must-do experience was the natural slide at Zilda Waterfall. At 20ft (6m) long and about 6.5ft (2m) wide, the slide was accessible by ascending a stone trail. Slippery at times, a hand rope for balance was installed beside the trail. This was not an opportunity I was going to miss. After carefully navigating my way to the top, I let out a joyful “Woo-hoo!” as I slid down into the refreshing pool.

After many more turns on the slide, I packed up and returned to the village to fill my belly with pururuca queijo, a cheese crackling dish that was made famous by a local restaurant in Carrancas.

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Estrada Real - Tiradentes

Tiradentes is over 300 years old and like most of the villages and cities on this route, sprung up as a result of the mining industry during the colonial era. Elevated to city level in 1718, it was originally named Vila de São José do Rio das Mortes. The town was renamed Tiradentes, after the failed conspiracy of 1789 known as Inconfidência Mineira (Minas Gerais Conspiracy).

Tiradentes was the leader of the conspiracy. He was born in a nearby village as Joaquim José da Silva Xavier and trained as a pharmacist and dentist. Because of his dental profession he was nicknamed Tiradentes (meaning tooth puller).

Tiradentes became dissatisfied with the state's continual poverty. The decline in gold production put a lot of pressure on the state to fulfil the quota demanded by the crown. Then he met José Alvares Maciel, who had just returned from England, where he had seen Britain's industrial progress. Inspired by the idea of freedom and progress, a group of freedom aspirants was formed. Membership consisted of businessmen, public servants and professional writers. Together they spread their ideas of freedom and independence among the people with the intent to take to the streets in Ouro Preto and declare Brazil as a republic.

The plot was exposed by an insider who traded the information on the conspiracy for a tax waiver. The group was arrested and tried over a period of three years. Tiradentes, who claimed full responsibility for the conspiracy, was sentenced to death and publicly hanged.

In 1889 Brazil became a republic and a national holiday was proclaimed on the anniversary of Tiradentes’ death. Revered as a national hero, his moniker has been used in public squares, streets and includes the 11th Infantry Battalion Mountain Regiment Tiradentes, an army unit specialising in difficult mountainous terrain.

On a lighter note, Tiradentes is home to a narrow-gauge railway track that was part of the late 19th century Minas Gerais railway networks. When large parts of the railroad were closed and tracks removed, a stretch of 8mi (13km) was retained to be used for tourism. Using steam locomotives, the railway operates between Tiradentes and São João Del Rei, Brazil’s largest railway museum.

Tiradentes is a lovely, quiet city retaining well-preserved old mansions on cobblestone streets. Artisanal shops line the streets and rumours suggest that it has quite the gastronomic culture. Curious about duck rice, a local reinvention of a Portuguese dish, I went in search of a serving.

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Estrada Real - Congonhas

Congonhas is a city of 55,000 residents and is primarily known for its basilica, the Bom Jesus of Matosinhos Sanctuary. It is located on a bluff that is part of the Ouro Branco Mountain range. Access to the 18th century sanctuary was via a steep cobbled street. A stride up the hill brought me to the sanctuary’s forecourt, encircled by a parapet and topped with twelve statues. Depicting the Twelve Prophets from the Old Testament, the soapstone (a type of metamorphic rock) sculptures were created between 1800-1805 by Aleijadinho. Several high-profile artists worked on the sanctuary including painter Mestre Atade and architect Francisco de Lima Cerqueira. With a Baroque exterior and Italian Rococo interior, in 1985 the church was designated a UNESCO site.

The construction of the sanctuary was commissioned by Portuguese adventurer and miner Feliciano Mendes. After recovering from a grave illness, he promised to Bom Jesus of Matosinhos he would build the church. Bom Jesus is a polychrome sculpture in Portugal. Thought to have been sculpted by Nicodemus, a man who knew Jesus in real life, it is believed that the sculpture has a perfect likeness of Jesus.

When the sanctuary was built, a copy of Bom Jesus was imported from Portugal. Bom Jesus was seen as a “powerful vehicle for intercession” and believed that prayers uttered before the sculpture would be answered. The Room of Miracles next to the church became a place for pilgrims to make offerings as thanks for their answered prayers. Hundreds of photos and small tokens line the walls and display cabinets inside the room.

A walk down the hill leads to six chapels, each with polychrome sculptures – sculpted by Aleijadinho and painted by Atade – depicting various scenes in Jesus’ life. The chapels are not accessible, but I could peer through the windows to see the works. A scene depicting the Last Supper was in the farthest chapel, with sculptures in vivid detail bringing the whole thing to life.

Throughout its time, the sanctuary drew pilgrims from afar and continues to retain its importance as a pilgrimage site. The setting is beautiful and serene, with remarkable works that are worth taking the time to observe and enjoy.

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Estrada Real - Ouro Preto

The magnificent city of Ouro Preto is the junction of Estrada Real’s three major roads. Caminho dos Diamantes, the road I’ve been travelling since Diamantina ends here, completing the first section of this journey. For the next section I will be heading to Paraty on the Caminho Velho (Old Path).

The Old Path was the first official route on the Estrada Real connecting Rio de Janeiro to the mining region. Goods from Portugal were transported on this road into the interior while minerals made their way to the coast for onward shipment to Portugal. The tropeiros with their mule trains were the carriers and they would take up to 60 days to complete their journey.

Before I launched onto the Old Path, I explored Ouro Preto (meaning Black Gold), which prior to 1823 was known as Vila Rica (Rich Town). Ouro Preto was the second capital city of Minas Gerais until it was moved in 1897 to Belo Horizonte, the current capital.

Ouro Preto is a UNESCO site mainly due to the well-preserved colonial Portuguese architecture lining its winding cobbled streets. The churches were decorated with gold and sculptures designed by local artist Antônio Francisco Lisboa, better known as Aleijadinho. Ouro Preto's wealth attracted European intellectuals, who brought music, art, and philosophy to the city.

It was also the centre of a failed attempt to break away from Portugal. As gold mining declined, Minas Gerais was unable to meet its tax obligations to the crown. Inspired by the success of the American Revolution and subsequent independence of the Thirteen Colonies, a group of prominent individuals conspired to rise up in rebellion against Portugal. The objective was to turn Brazil into a republic and choose a leader through democratic elections. The conspiracy was subsequently discovered when insiders revealed the plan to the government. In the aftermath, a number of conspirators were exiled to Africa, some were acquitted, and a few were executed, including the leader known as Tiradentes.

One of the most significant landmarks in Ouro Preto is the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Both the structure and the interior’s carved decorations were designed by Aleijadinho, an accomplished architect and sculptor. Building began in 1760 in a Rococo style. Its interior is ornately decorated with gilded woodwork, frescoes, and sculptures. The stunning paintings on the ceiling were done by Mestre Atade, a colleague of Aleijadinho, hailing from the nearby city of Mariana. Above the single door entrance is an intricately detailed relief of St Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy – the St Francis Way is a pilgrimage trail inspired by St Francis’ life.

In 1969 two century-old higher education schools, the School of Mining among them, merged into the Federal University of Ouro Preto, transforming the city into a thriving university town. There's a fine collection of minerals, gemstones, and crystals at the Mining School's Mineralogy Museum. On site security is extremely high due to the gemstones' incalculable value.

There is so much more to see and explore but it’s time to move on as soon as I’ve indulged in a traditional Brazilian Carrot Cake. Delightfully light, the cake is very fluffy topped with a thin layer of chocolate.

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Estrada Real - Catas Altas

I rolled into Catas Altas with the anticipation of new curiosities. Situated amongst verdant rolling hills, Catas Altas is a small village. At the height of the Minas Gerais gold rush Catas Altas became one of the richest and most populous villages in Brazil. Once the mines were depleted most of the villagers left, leaving only a handful of residents.

I headed for the centre of town. Located in a public square was the Church of Our Lady of Conception with its wide frontage and corner towers facing the lofty Caraça Mountain. This church dates back to 1738, when the Portuguese controlled the interior and prohibited religious orders and missionary activities. The result was the development of new religious groups and the construction of churches. Our Lady's Church has a simple Rococo exterior, but it's richly carved inside with gilded carvings. The church was never completely finished, giving conservationists and historians an opportunity to study its architecture, the building techniques and the materials used.

A few miles northeast of the village is the Bicame de Pedra Aqueduct dating back to 1792. It was made entirely out of quartzite stone and its construction, inspired by Roman techniques of building without cement or mortar, can be observed in the centre of the portal’s arch where the stones are tightly packed together. The purpose of the aqueduct was to carry water from the Caraça Range to the town of Brumado, where gold was extracted and washed. Only about 200m of the wall remains with the highest point standing at 16ft (5m). A set of stone steps are embedded into the side of the wall allowing access to the top of the aqueduct.

As with most of Brazil, I didn’t have to travel far to find a waterfall. Taking a short side trip on my way out of town, I hiked to a scenic spot to enjoy the views of the valley, the railway track and the village with the Church of Our Lady proudly protruding above the rooftops. Before moving on to Ouro Preto, I enjoyed cooling off at Maquine Waterfall.

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Estrada Real - Ipoema

Ipoema is a tiny village known for two things: lots and lots of waterfalls, and the Tropeiros Museum. With only 2,000 inhabitants, travelling through the village was a breeze but not before I visited the museum.

Set in a small house, the museum tells the story of the tropeiros and their significant role during Brazil’s colonial period. The tropeiros were mule drovers and traders. When the gold rush began in Minas Gerais, the people who went there spent all their effort mining, leaving no time for farming nor the production of essential goods. The tropeiros filled that gap by bringing cattle, food and manufactured products into the interior. Travelling along well-known trails, their trips would take several weeks.

The tropeiro would be part of an entourage and responsible for seven animals that he would manage through specific shouts and whistles. Each animal carried about 260lb (120kg) and could travel up to 1860mi (3000km). During these journeys, tropeiros carried news from village to village when roads didn't exist, and distances were long.

They were identified by their clothing, wearing a flannel shirt, wide-brimmed hat, boots and a blanket across the shoulder. Each night they camped under a leather tent, cooking their meal, and keeping warm by the fire using their blanket for protection.

A favourite meal of the tropeiros was made from cassava flour, bacon, beans and dried meat. It has become one of Brazil's traditional dishes called Tropeiro Beans. Besides the simplicity of the meal, it is very hardy and easy to make.

As I pass by the statue of a tropeiro and his mule in Ipoema, I head for the nearest restaurant to order my own tasty plate of Tropeiro Beans.

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Estrada Real - Conceição do Mato Dentro

I made it to Conceição do Mato Dentro, a small city with about 20,000 people. Modern buildings lined the main street that ran through the centre of the city. About halfway down the main road, I found a quirky path that zigzagged up the hill to another street. Curious about what was at the top, I hiked up and came across another path, much wider that led to Bom Jesus de Matozinhos Sanctuary.

The sanctuary was built in the 1930s replacing an earlier dilapidated version. Whilst the building seemed somewhat stark, its cream brick façade with burgundy grouting gave it a unique look that was a little unusual for a church design. Gorgeous stained-glass windows ran along the church's length. Located high up on a hill, the sanctuary offered great views of the city and mountains.

Meandering through the streets I visited the various churches and chapels with their white facades and blue trimmings. One of them had a bandstand at the front and a marketplace behind where I could indulge in fresh produce, a touch of sweets and local crafts.

After an amble around a wooden townhouse that served as a jailhouse and town hall, I headed into nature to visit the numerous waterfalls surrounding the outskirts of the city. The most famous one nearby is Minas Gerais’ tallest waterfall, Tabuleiro Waterfall. At the top are more waterfalls and lakes whilst at the bottom is a 59ft (18m) deep pool surrounded by large blocks of stone.

About 27mi (45km) southwest of Conceição do Mato Dentro is the Juquinha sculpture. It’s quite big, measuring 9ft (3m) in height. Made of cement by a plastic artist, the large sculpture pays tribute to a local hiker who was renowned for picking flowers and offering them to passing tourists, sometimes in exchange for objects of interest. He was a simple mountain man who easily befriended travellers, becoming an increasingly popular and beloved figure. After he passed away in 1983, the statue was erected in Serra do Cipó National Park and today is considered a symbol and protector of the Serra.

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