Kokoda Trail - Owers’ Corner

I started the morning with slightly damp boots at the base of the Maguli Range and its nine false peaks. Heading through grassland, the first false peak was at 3,280ft (1,000m). I counted each one of them, so I knew how many I had left before I reached the top at 4,429ft (1,350m). It was very tiring, and it felt demoralising when each time I reached a plateau thinking I was at the top, there was the next false peak just waiting for me.

Of course, just as I reached the top, having climbed 1,960m (600m), I had the equal descent down to Ofi Creek, with a good dose of muddy terrain awaiting me for the next 2,296ft (700m). I kept going, passing through Ioribaiwa village, flanked by more kunai grass, crossing over small boulders at Va-Ule Creek and then another steep descent into dense forest until I reached Imita Ridge.

Imita Ridge was Australia’s last stand after a relentless two-month Japanese advance. With tin helmets and bayonets, the Aussies dug themselves in and waited but the Japanese never came as they hadn’t advanced beyond Ioribaiwa Ridge. With exhausted supplies, starving and in a terrible state, the Japanese were ordered to quietly retreat all the way back to the north coast. For the Aussies, the arrival of fresh reinforcements gave them the strength to start their counter-offensive in early to mid-October. Within a few more weeks the Japanese were pushed back to the north coast at Buna-Gona. By January 1943 with the assistance of United States forces, the Japanese were completely routed from Papua New Guinea.

From Imita Ridge, I descended to Goldie River – 82ft (25m) wide and 3ft (1m) deep, the river had a strong current with no logs for crossing. Boots off and steady fording, I waded through the river to the other side. Back in 1942, the trail from the river to Imita was further east and ascended via the “Golden Stairs”. The stairs consisted of over 2,000 (some say it was 3,000) timber steps cut into the mountainside, climbing 1,312ft (400m), descending 1,640 (500m) before climbing another 2,296ft (700m) over a distance of 3mi (5km). This was an exhausting climb for the troops, each soldier laden with 44-66lb (20-30kg) of weapons and supplies. Once they reached the top, they needed to be in fighting form to defend Imita and then engage in the counter-offensive.

With a final uphill push and over one more false peak, I crossed beneath the Kokoda Trail Arch at Owers’ Corner. Turning towards the north, I marvelled at the enormity of my accomplishment, having conquered the Kokoda Trail. I was in awe of the soldiers who, through a seesaw of advancement or retreat, never wavered, pushing through rain and slushy mud, climbing numerous peaks (some near vertical) and crossing endless rivers.

Humbled by the history, yet empowered by my experience, I take my leave from Owers’ Corner and head for Port Moresby for a very long shower and a mighty hearty feed.

This poem is an apt description of what the Aussie soldiers endured during their time in the Kokoda campaign: https://www.kokodawalkway.com.au/a-poem/

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Kokoda Trail - Eora Creek

A short distance after Isurava was a rest house where the Aussie troops took a defensive position. Slightly to the south of the house was a sizable flat-topped rock, just big enough to lay down a soldier with his feet protruding, that is now referred to as Con’s Rock or Surgeon’s Rock. Under minimal light, it is on this rock that Medical Orderly Con Vapp performed an emergency amputation on an Aussie soldier. The wounded soldier’s name and if he survived remains unknown. Many wounded soldiers had to travel over 44mi (70km) under their own strength to get medical assistance in Port Moresby. The seriously wounded were moved by local native carriers. It would take eight carriers to carry one soldier the full distance.

Above the rock was a plaque dedicated to the memory of Butch Bissett who died in the arms of his brother Stan Bissett. Butch was handing out grenades to his unit when he was shot. Stan was an intelligence officer and survived the war. Nearby was a neatly piled collection of rusty live ammunition - hand grenades and mortars – along with helmets, water flasks and a coil of signal wire. The ‘Do not touch’ advice from the guides seemed rightfully good advice.

The terrain was undulating with vines spreading through the jungle like a rug, followed by several steep uphill motions until I reached a small waterfall and crossed one of the many log bridges. The route was riddled with protruding roots; surefootedness was necessary and using hiking poles helped keep my balance. I came out into a clearing and reached the village of Alola.

Continuing on, the track descended for about 656ft (200m) where I crossed a creek over a beautifully arched sapling and vine bridge, then the ascent began again before it levelled out a bit all the way to Eora Creek. The log crossing here was 62ft (19m) long and somewhat precarious as the Eora is a raging river all year round. Log bridges often get washed away over winter and the locals have to rebuild them each year before the trekking season commences.

A small bronze plaque sat in a clearing describing the two battles fought here. In early September, over two days the retreating Australians successfully defended their position, allowing them sufficient time to fall back towards Port Moresby. Then in mid-October, the Japanese during their retreat dug themselves a solid defensive position. From higher ground, nine artillery units rained fire onto the advancing Australian troops, resisting their frontal attacks. It would take the Australians six days to overcome the Japanese. Once the Japanese found themselves nearly encircled, they abandoned their location and retreated back to Oivi (north of Kokoda).

The Eora Creek Village now lies abandoned with a few rusty pieces of ammunition as evidence of the tough battle fought here.

Photo © Jonty Crane



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Kokoda Trail - Kokoda

Located north of Australia’s mainland is the third largest island country in the world, Papua New Guinea. Its capital, Port Moresby, is on the island’s south-eastern coast. With a population of eight million people, Papua New Guinea (PNG) has 851 known languages making it the most linguistically diverse country in the world. The majority of its people live in remote villages with only 13% of its population located in urban areas. Administered by Australia from the early 1900s, Papua New Guinea gained its independence in 1975.

During World War 2 a series of land battles were fought from July to November 1942 between Australia and Japan. The objective for the Japanese was to capture Port Moresby to take control of Papua and have a base from which to attack the Australian mainland and isolate them from the United States. Their strategy was to advance from the north coast through the Kokoda Trail and over the Owen Stanley Mountain range. The battle for the Australians was extremely difficult. Australian troops consisting of 2,000 soldiers were up against 10,000 elite Japanese troops who were determined to capture the capital.

The battle conditions for both sides were appalling. The Kokoda Trail was a narrow, single dirt track with steep climbs up mountains, followed by steep descents into deep valleys. Surrounded by dense jungle, movement was slow, exhausting and all on foot. Heavy equipment, ammunition and supplies had to be carried and when it rained – daily rainfall of 10in (25cm) was not uncommon - the track turned into calf-deep mud. If this wasn’t hard enough, add mosquitoes, leeches, heat and humidity to the already rain-drenched soldiers. Food supply was limited, a cup of tea or coffee was often just a dream.

Along with hundreds of hikers who walk the trail every year, I embarked on a journey to test my mettle and to honour the soldiers who battled in this campaign. My trek began in the town of Kokoda on the north side of the track where on the edge of a grassy oval were four white memorial stones, dedicated to those who fought here. At the edge of the village, I crossed beneath a set of arches that marked the official start of the Kokoda Trail.

From here I will be heading up the mountain for nearly 50% of the trip and descending for the remainder of the trek to Owers’ Corner. Steep elevation changes, numerous river crossings, deep vegetation and plenty of bogginess awaits.

Without further ado, I headed into the jungle.



Photo © Jonty Crane



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