Kokoda Trail - Owers’ Corner

I started the morning with slightly damp boots at the base of the Maguli Range and its nine false peaks. Heading through grassland, the first false peak was at 3,280ft (1,000m). I counted each one of them, so I knew how many I had left before I reached the top at 4,429ft (1,350m). It was very tiring, and it felt demoralising when each time I reached a plateau thinking I was at the top, there was the next false peak just waiting for me.

Of course, just as I reached the top, having climbed 1,960m (600m), I had the equal descent down to Ofi Creek, with a good dose of muddy terrain awaiting me for the next 2,296ft (700m). I kept going, passing through Ioribaiwa village, flanked by more kunai grass, crossing over small boulders at Va-Ule Creek and then another steep descent into dense forest until I reached Imita Ridge.

Imita Ridge was Australia’s last stand after a relentless two-month Japanese advance. With tin helmets and bayonets, the Aussies dug themselves in and waited but the Japanese never came as they hadn’t advanced beyond Ioribaiwa Ridge. With exhausted supplies, starving and in a terrible state, the Japanese were ordered to quietly retreat all the way back to the north coast. For the Aussies, the arrival of fresh reinforcements gave them the strength to start their counter-offensive in early to mid-October. Within a few more weeks the Japanese were pushed back to the north coast at Buna-Gona. By January 1943 with the assistance of United States forces, the Japanese were completely routed from Papua New Guinea.

From Imita Ridge, I descended to Goldie River – 82ft (25m) wide and 3ft (1m) deep, the river had a strong current with no logs for crossing. Boots off and steady fording, I waded through the river to the other side. Back in 1942, the trail from the river to Imita was further east and ascended via the “Golden Stairs”. The stairs consisted of over 2,000 (some say it was 3,000) timber steps cut into the mountainside, climbing 1,312ft (400m), descending 1,640 (500m) before climbing another 2,296ft (700m) over a distance of 3mi (5km). This was an exhausting climb for the troops, each soldier laden with 44-66lb (20-30kg) of weapons and supplies. Once they reached the top, they needed to be in fighting form to defend Imita and then engage in the counter-offensive.

With a final uphill push and over one more false peak, I crossed beneath the Kokoda Trail Arch at Owers’ Corner. Turning towards the north, I marvelled at the enormity of my accomplishment, having conquered the Kokoda Trail. I was in awe of the soldiers who, through a seesaw of advancement or retreat, never wavered, pushing through rain and slushy mud, climbing numerous peaks (some near vertical) and crossing endless rivers.

Humbled by the history, yet empowered by my experience, I take my leave from Owers’ Corner and head for Port Moresby for a very long shower and a mighty hearty feed.

This poem is an apt description of what the Aussie soldiers endured during their time in the Kokoda campaign: https://www.kokodawalkway.com.au/a-poem/

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Kokoda Trail - Efogi

The climb up to Mount Bellamy was so steep in some places I thought I was walking vertically. The ground was very muddy and slippery. The small brown snake slithering across the path just added to the mental challenge, although I’ve been reassured that it was not poisonous. Of the 100 snake species in PNG, 53 are poisonous, never mind the spiders, scorpions, wild bees, and numerous other critters making the jungle their home. I know I’d prefer to see PNG’s national bird, the Raggiana bird-of-paradise, with their fantastic reddish-orange plumage and long tail feather or Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing, the world’s largest butterfly - it has a wingspan of 12in/30cm, 10 times larger than the average butterfly.

Anyway, I managed to stay upright, not burying myself in the mud and with a great deal of elation reached the highest point on this journey, Mount Bellamy’s summit of 7,185ft (2,190m). I cannot fathom the difficulties the soldiers endured carrying supplies or the stretcher bearers carrying wounded men.

Having made it to the highest point, I thought I was on the home run, but what went up had to come down. The incredibly steep descent was eye-watering. Though the track was drier, I felt the load on my knees, and I needed to be wary of the kunai grass flanking the trail before Kagi Gap. This perennial grass has a fluffy white, cylindrical flower but it is the sharp blade-like edges of the grass that is of concern as it easily cuts the skin. The leaf has silica crystals embedded in its finely toothed margins and as the soldiers moved through the trail it would tear through their clothing, slashing their skin.

As I exited the forest into the open grassland, I could see Kagi Village downhill in the distance and after a descent of 2,296ft (700m) I walked into the village. I stopped long enough to refresh myself and pushed on further downhill on an even steeper track until I reached a small creek at an elevation of 3,215ft (980m). After another log crossing, I was back up a very steep ascent. The track opened up into a clearing and into Launumu Village.

A small Japanese monument was raised in the village by Corporal Nishimura who was the sole survivor of his troop of 42 men. He survived by hiding in a hollow tree stump for two days. He pledged that he would return to release the spirits of his men and he did so 37 years after the war.

After another steep descent, I entered Efogi, a large village with a population of 350 residents. It was kitted out with both a primary and secondary school, a health centre, and a communal campsite.

Making my weary muscles as comfortable as possible, I settled in my tent and fairly swiftly dozed off, fitfully dreaming about the next significant downhill trek.

Photo © Jonty Crane

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