The climb up to Mount Bellamy was so steep in some places I thought I was walking vertically. The ground was very muddy and slippery. The small brown snake slithering across the path just added to the mental challenge, although I’ve been reassured that it was not poisonous. Of the 100 snake species in PNG, 53 are poisonous, never mind the spiders, scorpions, wild bees, and numerous other critters making the jungle their home. I know I’d prefer to see PNG’s national bird, the Raggiana bird-of-paradise, with their fantastic reddish-orange plumage and long tail feather or Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing, the world’s largest butterfly - it has a wingspan of 12in/30cm, 10 times larger than the average butterfly.
Anyway, I managed to stay upright, not burying myself in the mud and with a great deal of elation reached the highest point on this journey, Mount Bellamy’s summit of 7,185ft (2,190m). I cannot fathom the difficulties the soldiers endured carrying supplies or the stretcher bearers carrying wounded men.
Having made it to the highest point, I thought I was on the home run, but what went up had to come down. The incredibly steep descent was eye-watering. Though the track was drier, I felt the load on my knees, and I needed to be wary of the kunai grass flanking the trail before Kagi Gap. This perennial grass has a fluffy white, cylindrical flower but it is the sharp blade-like edges of the grass that is of concern as it easily cuts the skin. The leaf has silica crystals embedded in its finely toothed margins and as the soldiers moved through the trail it would tear through their clothing, slashing their skin.
As I exited the forest into the open grassland, I could see Kagi Village downhill in the distance and after a descent of 2,296ft (700m) I walked into the village. I stopped long enough to refresh myself and pushed on further downhill on an even steeper track until I reached a small creek at an elevation of 3,215ft (980m). After another log crossing, I was back up a very steep ascent. The track opened up into a clearing and into Launumu Village.
A small Japanese monument was raised in the village by Corporal Nishimura who was the sole survivor of his troop of 42 men. He survived by hiding in a hollow tree stump for two days. He pledged that he would return to release the spirits of his men and he did so 37 years after the war.
After another steep descent, I entered Efogi, a large village with a population of 350 residents. It was kitted out with both a primary and secondary school, a health centre, and a communal campsite.
Making my weary muscles as comfortable as possible, I settled in my tent and fairly swiftly dozed off, fitfully dreaming about the next significant downhill trek.
Photo © Jonty Crane
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A short distance after Isurava was a rest house where the Aussie troops took a defensive position. Slightly to the south of the house was a sizable flat-topped rock, just big enough to lay down a soldier with his feet protruding, that is now referred to as Con’s Rock or Surgeon’s Rock. Under minimal light, it is on this rock that Medical Orderly Con Vapp performed an emergency amputation on an Aussie soldier. The wounded soldier’s name and if he survived remains unknown. Many wounded soldiers had to travel over 44mi (70km) under their own strength to get medical assistance in Port Moresby. The seriously wounded were moved by local native carriers. It would take eight carriers to carry one soldier the full distance.
Above the rock was a plaque dedicated to the memory of Butch Bissett who died in the arms of his brother Stan Bissett. Butch was handing out grenades to his unit when he was shot. Stan was an intelligence officer and survived the war. Nearby was a neatly piled collection of rusty live ammunition - hand grenades and mortars – along with helmets, water flasks and a coil of signal wire. The ‘Do not touch’ advice from the guides seemed rightfully good advice.
The terrain was undulating with vines spreading through the jungle like a rug, followed by several steep uphill motions until I reached a small waterfall and crossed one of the many log bridges. The route was riddled with protruding roots; surefootedness was necessary and using hiking poles helped keep my balance. I came out into a clearing and reached the village of Alola.
Continuing on, the track descended for about 656ft (200m) where I crossed a creek over a beautifully arched sapling and vine bridge, then the ascent began again before it levelled out a bit all the way to Eora Creek. The log crossing here was 62ft (19m) long and somewhat precarious as the Eora is a raging river all year round. Log bridges often get washed away over winter and the locals have to rebuild them each year before the trekking season commences.
A small bronze plaque sat in a clearing describing the two battles fought here. In early September, over two days the retreating Australians successfully defended their position, allowing them sufficient time to fall back towards Port Moresby. Then in mid-October, the Japanese during their retreat dug themselves a solid defensive position. From higher ground, nine artillery units rained fire onto the advancing Australian troops, resisting their frontal attacks. It would take the Australians six days to overcome the Japanese. Once the Japanese found themselves nearly encircled, they abandoned their location and retreated back to Oivi (north of Kokoda).
The Eora Creek Village now lies abandoned with a few rusty pieces of ammunition as evidence of the tough battle fought here.
Photo © Jonty Crane
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