Kokoda Trail - Templeton’s Crossing

The next round of hiking was extremely difficult. Each short section of the steep climb made me think I had reached the peak of the mountain, only to find out that there was another peak up ahead. The continuous false peaks, burning calves and tight thighs felt eternal. This section of the trek is home to numerous leeches. These very thin black worms like to attach themselves to humans, get their fill until they’re fully bloated and then fall off, many of us, and I’m sure especially the soldiers, found these parasites aggravating. With my long pants tucked into my boots and a good dose of mosquito repellent on - apparently, they hate the chemical DEET in it - I pushed on until I made it to the actual peak of this section of the mountain. I gained 5,249ft (1600m) of altitude since I left Kokoda and I was standing at an elevation 6,266ft (1,910m). However, this wasn’t the highest point on this journey. That was yet to come.

Descending again through swampy creeks, the trail was slippery and boggy, making it hard on the knees. A couple of times, I had to climb over big fallen tree trunks, but I took the time to appreciate the beautiful red foliage of the Cordilyne Fruticosa as it dotted itself amongst the green jungle. 

I arrived at Templeton Crossing and just like Eora Creek, it was the site of two separate battles. The retreating Australians fought a short battle in September, but the bigger battle was during the counter-offensive in October.

Although ordered to withdraw, the Japanese were still very keen to capture Port Moresby. With well selected positions at Templeton, they lay in wait for the advancing Aussies. Not seeing the camouflaged machine gun muzzles until it was too late, the Aussies suffered severe casualties until they came back with fresh troops and managed to dislodge the Japanese and push them back to Eora Creek. 

Crossing yet another river, I climbed onto the single plank bridge and held onto the single rope, slowly and carefully walking over it. Once on the other side, I took a load off, had a bite to eat, refreshed myself and mentally prepared for the steep climb to the highest point on this trek.

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Kokoda Trail - Eora Creek

A short distance after Isurava was a rest house where the Aussie troops took a defensive position. Slightly to the south of the house was a sizable flat-topped rock, just big enough to lay down a soldier with his feet protruding, that is now referred to as Con’s Rock or Surgeon’s Rock. Under minimal light, it is on this rock that Medical Orderly Con Vapp performed an emergency amputation on an Aussie soldier. The wounded soldier’s name and if he survived remains unknown. Many wounded soldiers had to travel over 44mi (70km) under their own strength to get medical assistance in Port Moresby. The seriously wounded were moved by local native carriers. It would take eight carriers to carry one soldier the full distance.

Above the rock was a plaque dedicated to the memory of Butch Bissett who died in the arms of his brother Stan Bissett. Butch was handing out grenades to his unit when he was shot. Stan was an intelligence officer and survived the war. Nearby was a neatly piled collection of rusty live ammunition - hand grenades and mortars – along with helmets, water flasks and a coil of signal wire. The ‘Do not touch’ advice from the guides seemed rightfully good advice.

The terrain was undulating with vines spreading through the jungle like a rug, followed by several steep uphill motions until I reached a small waterfall and crossed one of the many log bridges. The route was riddled with protruding roots; surefootedness was necessary and using hiking poles helped keep my balance. I came out into a clearing and reached the village of Alola.

Continuing on, the track descended for about 656ft (200m) where I crossed a creek over a beautifully arched sapling and vine bridge, then the ascent began again before it levelled out a bit all the way to Eora Creek. The log crossing here was 62ft (19m) long and somewhat precarious as the Eora is a raging river all year round. Log bridges often get washed away over winter and the locals have to rebuild them each year before the trekking season commences.

A small bronze plaque sat in a clearing describing the two battles fought here. In early September, over two days the retreating Australians successfully defended their position, allowing them sufficient time to fall back towards Port Moresby. Then in mid-October, the Japanese during their retreat dug themselves a solid defensive position. From higher ground, nine artillery units rained fire onto the advancing Australian troops, resisting their frontal attacks. It would take the Australians six days to overcome the Japanese. Once the Japanese found themselves nearly encircled, they abandoned their location and retreated back to Oivi (north of Kokoda).

The Eora Creek Village now lies abandoned with a few rusty pieces of ammunition as evidence of the tough battle fought here.

Photo © Jonty Crane



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