Transylvania - Bran Castle

The most anticipated part of this journey was arriving at the famous Dracula lair, Bran Castle, on the Transylvanian side of the historical border with Wallachia. Built sometime in the 14th century by the Transylvanian Saxons, the castle was primarily used as a fortress protecting the borders from Ottoman incursions.

There is a belief that Vlad III Dracula was held prisoner by the Hungarians based on written records that he passed through Bran gorge many times on his way to Wallachia’s capital Târgovişte. Other historians completely refute Vlad ever setting foot in the castle most likely due to lack of documentation as evidence thereby breaking the connection between Vlad and Bran Castle.

Of course, the question remains as to how Bran Castle became associated with the vampire’s castle given that Bram has never been to Transylvania. Some suggest that Bram was inspired by an illustration of Bran Castle, referred to as Terzburg (sic) in Charles Boner’s book on Transylvania but Bram’s castle description is so vague that it could have been Poienari Citadel, Slains Castle or any other castle on a precipice with chasms and rivers.

Bran Castle became synonymous with the fictional Dracula sometime in the 1990s when restorations were complete, and the property was added to the tourist circuit. It has a perfect blend of Gothic architecture, sombre appearance and rocky hilltop location for vampire-themed fans coming from far and wide in search of the elusive Count Dracula.

Count Dracula may be a fictional character of Bram’s imagination, but myths of the un-dead referred to as strigoi have been part of Romania’s folklore since the 16th century, beginning with a villager who apparently terrorised his neighbours for years after his death until he was decapitated by the village priest. Strigoi are restless souls who supposedly rise from the grave with the ability to transform into animals and gain vitality from their victims. Unbeknownst to Bram, his creation of Dracula as a blood drinking vampire would become a modern interpretation of the strigoi and Transylvania with all of its beauty and historical villages would become a vampire-themed tourist destination.

On a more realistic note, Bran Castle fell into decay by the late 19th century until it was gifted to Queen Marie of Romania who carefully restored it in the 1920s and made it one of her favourite getaway homes. The castle was confiscated at the end of WW2 when the monarchy was dissolved, and the king (Marie’s grandson) was forced to abdicate and sent into exile. The castle was returned to Marie’s descendants in 2009 and continues to operate as a museum focused on its real history instead of the fictional one.

This brings me to the end of my journey. I wander away from the castle with my head filled with facts and fiction between Vlad and Dracula and I reflect on this beautiful region, its diverse people and wonderfully good food.

Farewell / La revedere



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Transylvania - Făgăraş

Făgăraş is a small city located in the foothills of the Făgăraş Mountains. Less than a mile southeast of the city centre lies the geographical centre of Romania. North of the city flowing west is the Olt River, the longest river running exclusively through Romania.
 

In the city centre, surrounded by a moat is the 14th century Făgăraş Citadel. Built on an earlier fortification made of wood and earth ramparts that was most likely destroyed during the Mongol invasion of 1241, the new citadel was reinforced by doubling the thickness of its walls. A worthy effort since subsequent sieges failed and the citadel was never captured again.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the citadel served as a princely residence, mainly for the wives of the Transylvanian princes until it was repurposed to serve as a garrison. One such princess was Kata Bethlen who was one of the earliest Hungarians to write memoirs. Married and widowed twice, Kata had a difficult relationship with her in-laws and children and poured her thoughts and emotions into her writing, producing a number of works. As the carer of her late husband’s estate, she was also very involved in the community, encouraging her tenants to develop better farming practices, established nurseries on her lands for improved stock propagation, and employed artisans to work in her papermill and glassworks factory. She taught herself medicine and pharmacology so she could help her community and set up scholarships and schools with particular interest in educating girls.

At the end of WW2, the citadel was once again repurposed as a prison for dissidents of the newly formed communist regime. Restored in the 1970s, it now serves as a museum displaying historical artefacts and travelling exhibitions.

Feeling like a taste of Hungarian cooking, I’m in search of a restaurant that may serve goulash, or gulyás, a soup-stew that dates back to the 9th century when it was eaten by the Hungarian shepherds. Traditionally the stew was slow cooked in a cauldron over an open fire by first browning beef and onion in lard, then adding vegetables and a good dose of potatoes. It was then topped with water and flavoured with sweet or hot paprika and a pinch of caraway. Since paprika was only introduced into Europe around the 16th century, flavouring was completed with plenty of pepper. Fresh baked bread helped to soak up the juices. Now where to find such a place?

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Transylvania - Feldioara

 During the medieval era, fortifications were a typical form of protection against raids and invasions. At a time when conquering and waging war was a way of life, kingdoms would build great walls around their cities. Yet when the Mongols tore their way through the Kingdom of Hungary in the 13th century decimating villages and populations, it was clear that the fortifications in place were insufficient to hold the Mongols at bay.

The Transylvanian Saxons did their best to fight against the Mongols and hold their position but to no avail and subsequently many of the settlements were completely destroyed. Anticipating another invasion, the Saxons proceeded not just to rebuild but to fortify their territories. As such more than 300 villages were fortified. High curtain walls were built around the more important towns, as seen in Braşov, whereas smaller ones were built around the church, adding defensive buildings and storehouses to help the villagers withstand extended sieges.

With time many of these fortified villages fell into ruin and only about half of them continue to exist. Of these, seven of them throughout the region were classified UNESCO sites such as Prejmer’s fortified church just north of Braşov. A little further from Prejmer, I passed the fortified church of Hărman with its 20ft (6m) thick walls. The chapel has an extensive collection of antique knotted carpets and textiles, and the walls are adorned with highly detailed 15th century murals.

Having arrived in Feldioara, I stopped at the former headquarters of the Teutonic Order, a fortress built in 1225 and assumed to be the oldest in the area. Very little is left of the interior, but the curtain wall and its four towers have been fully restored. Strategically located, the fortress offered views over the landscape, the village of Feldioara and the spire of St Mary’s Church.

Wrapping up my meanderings, I pulled up at a local dining spot to indulge in another traditional dish that is usually served during special celebrations called Sarmale, stuffed cabbage rolls. Made of minced pork mixed with caramelised onions and rice, it is then rolled into pickled sauerkraut leaf and pressure cooked with cuts of pork belly. The cabbage rolls are served with a dollop of sour cream on the side. While cabbage rolls have Turkish origins, they are a traditional Romanian dish with regional differences.

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The Queen Mary - Dark Harbor

2^nd August 2021

Dear Mayor Garcia,

With August upon us it’s time to ask if the Queen Mary will be hosting Dark Harbor this year. This is the Halloween event that was the most famous of her yearly repertoire, it was a big money maker from what I know, and had little to do with the ship herself.

With covid always hovering over your heads a group of walk through mazes may not be an option, but a pay by the car drive through show could be a thing, and it would show that the ship is still hanging on. If the city herself will be keeping control of the ship, a good idea given past miss-management, this is a great way to get your feet in the water.

The good old foot mazes were the better option because vendors can be added and that would lead to more income, but again, getting the ball rolling on making money is always better than sitting about. Items like collector cups and tee-shirts can be available at the beginning and end of the attractions and souvenir photographs can still be taken with some of your monsters.

When I attended Dark Harbor I only recall one of the handful of mazes entering the ship herself, and there is no way to drive a car onto the old girl.  For the most part, until she is safe the Queen Mary will be little more than a backdrop for events, but those events are still important.

Best,

 

Richard Leland Neal

 

 

"Babymouse: Monster Mash" by Jennifer L. and Matthew Holm Book Review

 

"Babymouse: Monster Mash" by Jennifer L. and Matthew Holm is the 9th book in the Babymouse books and the story of her Halloween.

Babymouse is something of a Tomboy who like scary costumes and her mother gives her permission to have a Halloween party. This is a happy moment for Babymouse until the mean girls click in her school get there hands on it and try to make Babymouse more like them. 

This is a story about peer pressure and finding yourself. It is also a story about standing up to people who try and push you around. I have to say I like what this teaches children. 

In addition, it is a stoutly made book with a two color ink. This is a black and orange that fits well with the Halloween subject matter. This book is a fun read and really made my day. 

Who should read this book? Everyone.

 Books read:  485 of 5,000

Boogeyman - Tommy

He Was My Patient - Samuel Loomis

In Order to Appease the Gods - Dr. Samuel Loomis

I Met Him - Dr. Samuel Loomis

Halloween Three Years Ago

I clearly wrote this some time ago and then I was working with the homeless. Things change.

31^st October 2013

Dear Cassi,

           

Well, the cats got past their first Halloween with no casualties even if I had something of a scare when pickles came home. He left the door open and caramel nearly got out. As it was late I think he would have been okay, but I’d rather not take the chance at getting him hurt. Halloween is the number one cat fatality day in America, or so I’m told, and I want to keep my furry wrecking crew off that statistic.  They scattered at the sound of trick or treaters as they rang the bell and called out for candy so I had no worry of the cats getting out until it was rather late.

           

I do have to say that the trick or treat crowd was rather annoying this year coming in at strength after eight and knocking on my door even after the lights had been turned out. I left the house early to deal with traffic and could still see a few of them on the street at nearly ten.

           

Another thing that bothered me was the rather young girls dressing in costumes that made them look, well, like strippers. It seems like every year the girls develop earlier but they shouldn’t be out at night showing it off. Even if we forget that this is a junior high student they should dress more sensibly for the night chill. I know it isn’t that cold this time of your in California but still.

           

This is one of the few evenings I was glad to have arrived at work. At least at work I know I’m dealing with folks over eighteen. Grant that my clients are a myriad of diseases that I wouldn’t like to come near.

Don’t eat too much candy, little sister,

Richard Leland Neal

Out with the Ice Girl

21^st October 2012

Dear Cassi,

There was a time in my life where this month was one of the happiest of my year. That was when I was young. It was back in the time when I could play among the ghosts and ghouls of our imagination. As a young boy I would imagine the other children as zombies and the teachers vampires on Halloween and play out an adventurer in my head.

Today I did my best to capture this feeling by going to a Halloween attraction of which is common in California. This is something that in a loose sense I would call a date as I was accompanied by a woman who I would at very least call attractive. I fail to see the fuss but you know how cold a man I can be in this regard.

It was my decision to take this girl to Dark Harbor at the Queen Mary as I have never been and found that she lived not far from the event. I know very little about the old cruise ship, but I thought at very least this would be fun.

A damp spirit was placed on the evening early on as she would not let me collect her at her apartment but decided to meet me at the event. This I took to be a sign of distrust and led me to believe that she has had more than a few jerks in her life. To further this she is somewhat younger than I and so less sure in her wants and less clear in her movements. In other words she was cold as a pillar of ice.

I had the best tickets one could buy for this event and so they cost me, but we would spend no time in lines. This was thankful as she kept me waiting for twenty minutes past event open. Standing there I had to do some thinking about this whole thing and thinking is never good when it come to social events. What was I doing hanging out with this girl anyway? She lives a good distance from my home and long distance is something to handle.

As I said, when she finally arrived she was a pillar of ice. We went through the mazes in the dark and I tried to keep hold of her wrist so as not to lose track of her. To this she took little notice as we strolled along in the company of various remnants of the dead.

I’ll admit that other than for the small size the Dark Harbor was well done. We did no taking of the food as my ‘date’ was rather apprehensive I think of their price.  This was a night full of awkwardness and long pregnant pauses but in the overall it was fun.

We finished early as we had no desire for repose and my tickets had taken us through the events rather quickly. I have to say some unfinished feeling as we walked past the gates and to the parking structure. I learned then that she had been dropped off and that she expected me to drive her home.

On the way to her home she talked about her life and her city. Long Beach isn’t much in comparison with LA but there is more sea life and the associations. She told me she was a vegetarian but could eat fish. I dropped her off at her apartment and watched her step through the door feeling as if the night would have been better if it was a larger group. I think this letter is kind of boring but then so was my date.

Stay safe, little sister,

Richard Leland Neal