Transylvania - Feldioara

 During the medieval era, fortifications were a typical form of protection against raids and invasions. At a time when conquering and waging war was a way of life, kingdoms would build great walls around their cities. Yet when the Mongols tore their way through the Kingdom of Hungary in the 13th century decimating villages and populations, it was clear that the fortifications in place were insufficient to hold the Mongols at bay.

The Transylvanian Saxons did their best to fight against the Mongols and hold their position but to no avail and subsequently many of the settlements were completely destroyed. Anticipating another invasion, the Saxons proceeded not just to rebuild but to fortify their territories. As such more than 300 villages were fortified. High curtain walls were built around the more important towns, as seen in Braşov, whereas smaller ones were built around the church, adding defensive buildings and storehouses to help the villagers withstand extended sieges.

With time many of these fortified villages fell into ruin and only about half of them continue to exist. Of these, seven of them throughout the region were classified UNESCO sites such as Prejmer’s fortified church just north of Braşov. A little further from Prejmer, I passed the fortified church of Hărman with its 20ft (6m) thick walls. The chapel has an extensive collection of antique knotted carpets and textiles, and the walls are adorned with highly detailed 15th century murals.

Having arrived in Feldioara, I stopped at the former headquarters of the Teutonic Order, a fortress built in 1225 and assumed to be the oldest in the area. Very little is left of the interior, but the curtain wall and its four towers have been fully restored. Strategically located, the fortress offered views over the landscape, the village of Feldioara and the spire of St Mary’s Church.

Wrapping up my meanderings, I pulled up at a local dining spot to indulge in another traditional dish that is usually served during special celebrations called Sarmale, stuffed cabbage rolls. Made of minced pork mixed with caramelised onions and rice, it is then rolled into pickled sauerkraut leaf and pressure cooked with cuts of pork belly. The cabbage rolls are served with a dollop of sour cream on the side. While cabbage rolls have Turkish origins, they are a traditional Romanian dish with regional differences.

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