Zhangye is a city that sits in the centre of the Hexi Corridor and was an important outpost on the Silk Road. It was also a border town, protecting inner China from the nomads in the northwest. Across centuries, dynasties and nomadic tribes engaged in warfare in the area, such as the Han against the Xiongnu, Western Xia conquering the Uyghur Kingdom or the Mongols exterminating Western Xia.
In the city centre is the Great Buddha Temple. It was built in the 12th century during the Western Xia era when they controlled the Hexi Corridor and it is largely known for its massive reclining Buddha, stretching 115ft (35m) in length. It was rumoured that Kublai Khan, Mongol emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, was born in the temple and that the last emperor of the Song Dynasty was exiled here and became a monk. However, no evidence to corroborate either story has been found.
Southeast of the city centre is Shandan County, home to several remains of the Great Wall. Although many sections have crumbled, were mowed down, got hollowed out or even had a highway cut through, the Shandan Wall is still a fine example of rammed earth construction. Two walls, from two dynasties exist beside each other, at distances between 33-262ft (10-80m). They are both built from rammed earth at least 1,500 years apart.
The earliest, from the Han era, was built in 111 BC. Most of it has eroded or been looted, with only round mounds that were once watchtowers remaining. They are dotted alongside the sturdier and better-preserved Ming wall. A study of the two walls reveal the evolution of construction methods and the advancement of techniques and materials.
Being located on the edge of the Gobi Desert, both walls are at risk of ongoing damage or erosion, either from ongoing human interference or the harsh desert climate.
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In ancient times, Wuwei was an important town along the Hexi Corridor, a significant trading route that connected central China to the western regions. This 620mi (1000km) passage was linked by Wuwei, as its eastern terminus, to Yumen Pass, in the west. The Corridor, an arable plain, was long and narrow, sandwiched between the inhospitable plateaus of Mongolia to the north and Tibet to the south. It became a hub for the ancient silk road.
During the 2nd century BC, the Hexi region was reigned by the Xiongnu, a nomadic tribe, until a Han General, on the orders of his emperor, conquered the tribe and took over the corridor. As a result, Wuwei became a provincial capital of the Han Dynasty. Driving the Xiongnu out allowed the emperor to expand the corridor westward and protect the goods traded along the Silk Road.
In 1969, a group of farmers, digging air-raid shelters underground, unearthed a Han tomb belonging to an army general. Within, they discovered more than 200 relics consisting of wares made of precious metals, potteries, ceremonial figurines and a horse sculpture made of bronze known as the ‘Flying Horse of Gansu’.
The sculpture is an incredibly valuable piece, so much so that it is listed as one of 64 cultural relics prohibited from ever being exhibited outside of China. The horse is meant to depict the Ferghana breed (from modern-day Uzbekistan), that was highly prized by the Han emperor for its speed, hardiness and endurance. He went on to name the breed ‘heavenly horses’, after he was told that divine horses would appear from the northwest. The artwork itself is brilliant as the horse, in a galloping state, is balanced by one hoof resting without pressure on a flying swallow. The sculpture became a symbol of Wuwei City and it is used as a logo for China Tourism.
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Zhongwei is a small city located on the northern bank of the Yellow River. North of the city and on the edge of Tengger Desert are remnants of the Great Wall. It was built during the Qin Dynasty (210 BC – 259 AD), when China was unified for the first time and served as a minor pass during the Ming era.
The walls were built out of earth and stone only, unlike the sections to the far east that were reinforced and covered in bricks. This led to extensive erosion of the Zhongwei Wall that was impacted further by the Tengger Desert’s ongoing expansion. The shifting sand has swallowed many towers as the desert continues to move south towards the city of Zhongwei. Some parts of the Wall have been erased completely with the growth of local industrialisation.
Just to the northwest of Zhongwei Airport’s runway is a very large, solid, mud-brick tower with a wall enclosure that was possibly either a fort or a fortified gate of the Wall’s pass. The line of the wall vanishes here to only appear sporadically for the next 150mi (240km).
The main landmark in the city is the maze-like structure of Gao Miao Temple, where China’s three main religions - Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism - are combined into one. The temple has a staggering number of pavilions, up to 260, that are connected with bridges, leading up and down between levels. It is beautifully decorated in bright colours with Chinese dragons on its rooftops, bells hanging off the eaves and more than hundred religious sculptures inside.
The quirky attraction at Gao Miao is actually the underground display of statues, suffering different forms of punishment and torture, meted out based on the crime committed. These strange and gruesome scenes are meant to depict life in hell based on ancient Chinese legends.
This may seem like a unique or unusual ‘attraction’ but it is not dissimilar to the ‘Ten Gates of Hell’ on display in Haw Par Villa, Singapore.
It is certainly not for the faint of heart or for the young.
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Yinchuan was the capital of the 11th century Xixia state (modern-day Ningxia) and was occupied by the Western Xia Dynasty. The people of Western Xia were originally Tibetan and when the capital was established as part of the empire, the native Chinese were so dissatisfied that the entire population emigrated.
The city experienced a terrible blow when the Mongols, under the leadership of Genghis Khan, laid siege to it in 1227AD. Yinchuan was under siege for six months when Genghis suddenly died. To keep the campaign on track, his death was kept a secret. A month later, the emperor surrendered and was immediately executed. Genghis’ policy was always to conquer and eradicate those who resisted him. As such, the entire population of Yinchuan was slaughtered and the Western Xia Dynasty fell.
The few royal members that survived retreated either to Tibet or the far east. Very little is known about this dynasty, since the Mongols pillaged and plundered the capital, leaving very little evidence of its existence behind.
About 25mi (40km) west of Yinchuan are the Western Xia Imperial Tombs. Located at the foot of the Helan Mountains, the burial complex was only discovered in 1972. Special liquid was sprayed on the excavated relics to protect them from exposure. So far nine imperial mausoleums and 250 minor tombs have been discovered. They have a unique beehive shape and are often referred to as the Oriental Pyramids.
The largest and most complete tomb is said to belong to Jingzong, the first emperor of the Western Xia Dynasty. The large tomb is 75ft (23m) high and it is believed to have once been a 5-7 storied, eight-sided pagoda. Combining mausoleum and temple styles, it was built in accordance with Buddhist architecture.
Large amounts of inscribed stele fragments were found in the complex, giving scholars a rare opportunity to learn a little more about the vanished Xixia civilisation.
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In ancient times, Yulin used to be the northernmost border of China. Various walls were built throughout the centuries with the earliest dating to the 5th century BC right up to the 15th century AD, covering the rule of several dynasties. Some preserved walls and forts can still be found in Yulin and nearby cities but the most significant is Zhenbeitai Tower, the largest watchtower on the Great Wall.
Located about 3mi (5km) north of Yulin, the tower is affectionately referred to as the heart of the dragon, with its head in Laolongtou (far east) and its tail in Jiayuguan (far west).
Built in 1607 during the Ming Dynasty, its purpose was to protect the markets where Mongolians and local people could trade in peace. It was an important marketplace because highly prized Mongolian horses were traded along with cloth, silk, tea and salt.
The watchtower is connected to the southwest corner of the wall. Tapering towards the top, the tower rises across four levels to a height of 98ft (30m) and average base width of 230ft (70m). Each level is narrower than the one below. The surrounding wall is around 550ft (167m) wide with the northwest corner linked to remnants of the Great Wall. Made of rammed earth, it is dressed in bricks and stone.
From the top floor to the north is the Yellow River, flowing through the large Hongshixia Reservoir, heading south for hundreds of miles.
Within the surrounding walls was Kuangong City, where officials used to entertain Mongolian messengers and discuss foreign affairs. During peacetime, Mongolians showered the emperors with gifts such as livestock and in return they would receive silk, cloth and medicine. It was a prosperous city in the past but very little is left today.
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Remember Laolongtou, Old Dragon Head, at the beginning of this journey? He was drinking from the sea whilst the rest of his serpentine body, aka the Great Wall, contoured over the lofty mountain peaks and across valleys in a constant up and down motion. I am still searching for the tail.
The Chinese dragon is a legendary creature that is often associated with wealth, power and leadership. They are seen as noble and wise, exuding a good dose of luck and are often depicted breathing clouds instead of fire. It has control over watery phenomenon and is usually pictured floating in the sky, chasing flaming pearls, a treasured possession, that are said to multiply or enlarge anything that they come into contact with.
For a time during ancient China, only emperors were permitted to have items with dragon images on them. The dragon robe was an everyday garment used by royalty since the 7th century. It was a circular-collared robe embellished with dragons to symbolize imperial power. Over time, the cuts of the robes were modified to suit the ruling dynasty but the embroidered dragons were ever-present.
Chinese dragons are usually illustrated as having long, snake-like bodies and sharp, hawk-like claws. However, they can at times be rendered as other shapes such as dragon turtles. With the body of a turtle and the head of a dragon, the creature is typically associated with feng shui, symbolizing courage, longevity, success and more.
Dating back to 206BC, the Dragon Dance is the highlight of many festivities, especially Chinese New Year and the Lantern Festival. The dragon, up to 230ft (70m) long, is made of bamboo hoops covered with fabric and held by dancers. The dragon is moved in all directions, dancing to the sound of pounding drums. They are wonderfully colourful spectacles.
The Dragon Boat Festival is another important event that has the status of being included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The event commemorates the ancient poet, Qu Yuan, who drowned himself as a “gesture of dying along with his motherland” when his home state was invaded. The boat is shaped in the form of a Chinese dragon and the team paddles harmoniously to the sound of beating drums. The winning team is said to have good luck and a happy life in the following year.
Chinese dragons permeate everywhere, from architecture to textiles, artwork to ceramics, metalwork, jewellery, festivals, astrology and idioms. China is home to the most places named after dragons in the world.
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Laoniu Bay sits at the junction of Shanxi Province to the south and Inner Mongolia to the north. It is where the Great Wall meets the mighty Yellow River and then runs alongside it for the next 44mi (70km). A lone, ruined beacon tower stands at the end of the headland.
The Yellow River has an amazing journey across China. Its source is in the Bayan Har Mountains, Western China at an elevation of 15,700ft (4,800m) and it flows east until it empties in the Bohai Sea. It is the second longest river in China, after the Yanghtze, and the sixth longest in the world.
Heading east, the river runs through two large freshwater lakes, Gyaring and Ngoring. The water is crystal clear with a steady flow. It then makes two loops, first is northwest, followed by northeast, before it takes a sharp southern turn until it turns east again for its final flow into the sea.
The upper river travels through pastures, swamps, knolls and peat bog. The terrain along its banks changes from steep cliffs to deserts and grasslands. When it reaches the middle section, the river runs through the Loess Plateau, where large amounts of mud and sand end up in the river, giving it the muddy-yellow colour. Each year approximately 1.4 billion tonnes of silt are carried to the sea. In 1933, a record 3.9 billion tonnes of silt were discharged into the river from the plateau. The flow here is powerful, making it a great location for hydroelectric plants. When it reaches the lower section, the river slows down and sometimes it even dries up before reaching the sea.
The Yellow River has flooded many times, causing enormous losses of life and destruction. It has also been used as a military tactic by sabotaging canals and reservoirs or intentionally flooding warring states. Sometimes such plans backfire, as it did in 1642, when a Ming governor ordered the dikes to be broken in the hope that it would flood the rebels. Instead, it destroyed his city, causing famine and a plague that killed nearly 80% of its population.
Over the course of the last 2,500 years, it is estimated that the Yellow River has flooded nearly 1,600 times. It has also changed its course noticeably 26 times and severely at least 9 times. The most significant change was in the 12th century when instead of flowing into the Bohai Sea, as it usually does, it shifted so far south that it flowed into the Yellow Sea. It took 700 years for the Yellow River to return to its more northerly course.
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