Great Wall - Dunhuang

The town of Dunhuang is situated in an oasis at the west end of the Hexi Corridor and the start of the Southern Silk Route. On the edge of the city is a crescent-shaped lake called Yueyaquan (aka Crescent Moon Lake) and the Singing Sand Dunes, that emit melodic sounds when the wind blows.

Originally occupied by nomadic tribes, Han Emperor Wu dispatched his military troops to expel them and by 121BC Dunhuang was brought under Han control. The emperor promptly ordered a Great Wall built, which stretched 85mi (136km) in length and consisted of 80 beacon towers. The structure of the wall was a combination of local sand and reeds, compacted together in layers.

Dunhuang, along with Jiuquan, Zhangye and Wuwei, was a frontier garrison town and played an important military role in the safety of both the region and inner China.

It benefited greatly from the Silk Road. As the intersecting city for the three main silk routes, Dunhuang was a key base for water and food supplies and a welcome sight for arriving travellers. The town prospered from the heavy traffic flow until it was plundered and destroyed by the invading Mongols. The town was rebuilt and subsequently brought under the Yuan Dynasty (Mongol Empire).

By the Ming Dynasty, Dunhuang went into decline, as the Silk Road was replaced by the Maritime Silk Route.

South of the city are the sandstone Mogao Caves. Spanning one mile (1.6km) in length, the caves were built from the 4th-14th centuries and filled with frescoes and more than 2,000 Buddha statues. One of the caves was accidentally stumbled upon by a Taoist monk in the 1900s, inside was a vast collection of written works. It is estimated that 15,000 manuscripts in several languages and 1,100 bundles of scrolls were discovered. In 1987 the site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Today Dunhuang and the Mogao Caves are threatened by the encroaching Kumtag Desert. Centuries of overgrazing has caused the desert to spread and continue expanding. Hopefully a solution can be found soon before precious archaeological sites are swallowed up.


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Great Wall - Yumen City

Located west of the Hexi Corridor on the edge of Gobi Desert is the small city of Yumen. Today it is an industrial city, primarily focused on oil drilling, wind power-generation and large-scale factories. However, 2,100 years ago, when it came under Han Dynasty control, it was a thoroughfare for merchants, warriors, diplomats and missionaries to trade goods and exchange knowledge, technology and religious beliefs.

This ancient trade route, along with several others, made up the renowned Silk Road. This overland route began in the city of Xi’an, then travelled along the northwest section of the Great Wall, over the Pamir Mountains, through Afghanistan and to the Mediterranean Sea where the goods were shipped to Europe.

At 4,000mi (6,400km) in length, the Silk Road was a melting pot of cultures and ethnic diversity. Very few people travelled it in its entirety, giving rise to a number of middlemen and trading posts along the way. Bandits were a major threat to travellers. To protect themselves, they would often join together in caravans and over time, inns to accommodate them cropped up.

Silk was one of the major goods exported by China to the west, hence the name Silk Road. Production of silk was a closely guarded secret in China and the fabric was highly prized by the Roman elite. Being of high value but low weight, silk was an ideal product to carry on long distances. Other significant items used for trade were: horses, jade, paper, spices, glassware, furs and unfortunately also slaves.

Marco Polo was one of the first Europeans to travel to China via the Silk Road. He was 17 years old when he embarked on a journey with his father to the far east. Leaving Italy by ship, they sailed to Acre, in modern-day Israel and then travelled by camel to Persia (present-day Iran) where they planned to sail straight into China. The ships, however, were not seaworthy and so they decided to continue overland through the Silk Road. During their trip, the Polos joined a travelling caravan that was soon ambushed by bandits who used a sandstorm as cover. They were fortunate to escape through a nearby town but sadly many of the caravan members were killed or enslaved. It took the Polos three years to reach Kublai Khan’s summer palace in Shangdu, China.

Trade on the Silk Road came to an end in the 15th century when transportation shifted to the sea, this became known as the Maritime Silk Road. The ability to carry more goods at a cheaper price marked the decline of the overland route.

The Silk Road could be seen as an early example of globalisation. It connected the Orient to Europe through trade and cultural exchange and at its end it inspired Europeans to cross the ocean and explore the New World (the Americas).



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Great Wall - Zhangye

Zhangye is a city that sits in the centre of the Hexi Corridor and was an important outpost on the Silk Road. It was also a border town, protecting inner China from the nomads in the northwest. Across centuries, dynasties and nomadic tribes engaged in warfare in the area, such as the Han against the Xiongnu, Western Xia conquering the Uyghur Kingdom or the Mongols exterminating Western Xia.

In the city centre is the Great Buddha Temple. It was built in the 12th century during the Western Xia era when they controlled the Hexi Corridor and it is largely known for its massive reclining Buddha, stretching 115ft (35m) in length. It was rumoured that Kublai Khan, Mongol emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, was born in the temple and that the last emperor of the Song Dynasty was exiled here and became a monk. However, no evidence to corroborate either story has been found.

Southeast of the city centre is Shandan County, home to several remains of the Great Wall. Although many sections have crumbled, were mowed down, got hollowed out or even had a highway cut through, the Shandan Wall is still a fine example of rammed earth construction. Two walls, from two dynasties exist beside each other, at distances between 33-262ft (10-80m). They are both built from rammed earth at least 1,500 years apart.

The earliest, from the Han era, was built in 111 BC. Most of it has eroded or been looted, with only round mounds that were once watchtowers remaining. They are dotted alongside the sturdier and better-preserved Ming wall. A study of the two walls reveal the evolution of construction methods and the advancement of techniques and materials.

Being located on the edge of the Gobi Desert, both walls are at risk of ongoing damage or erosion, either from ongoing human interference or the harsh desert climate.



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Great Wall - Wuwei

In ancient times, Wuwei was an important town along the Hexi Corridor, a significant trading route that connected central China to the western regions. This 620mi (1000km) passage was linked by Wuwei, as its eastern terminus, to Yumen Pass, in the west. The Corridor, an arable plain, was long and narrow, sandwiched between the inhospitable plateaus of Mongolia to the north and Tibet to the south. It became a hub for the ancient silk road.

During the 2nd century BC, the Hexi region was reigned by the Xiongnu, a nomadic tribe, until a Han General, on the orders of his emperor, conquered the tribe and took over the corridor. As a result, Wuwei became a provincial capital of the Han Dynasty. Driving the Xiongnu out allowed the emperor to expand the corridor westward and protect the goods traded along the Silk Road.

In 1969, a group of farmers, digging air-raid shelters underground, unearthed a Han tomb belonging to an army general. Within, they discovered more than 200 relics consisting of wares made of precious metals, potteries, ceremonial figurines and a horse sculpture made of bronze known as the ‘Flying Horse of Gansu’.

The sculpture is an incredibly valuable piece, so much so that it is listed as one of 64 cultural relics prohibited from ever being exhibited outside of China. The horse is meant to depict the Ferghana breed (from modern-day Uzbekistan), that was highly prized by the Han emperor for its speed, hardiness and endurance. He went on to name the breed ‘heavenly horses’, after he was told that divine horses would appear from the northwest. The artwork itself is brilliant as the horse, in a galloping state, is balanced by one hoof resting without pressure on a flying swallow. The sculpture became a symbol of Wuwei City and it is used as a logo for China Tourism.



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