In ancient times, Yulin used to be the northernmost border of China. Various walls were built throughout the centuries with the earliest dating to the 5th century BC right up to the 15th century AD, covering the rule of several dynasties. Some preserved walls and forts can still be found in Yulin and nearby cities but the most significant is Zhenbeitai Tower, the largest watchtower on the Great Wall.
Located about 3mi (5km) north of Yulin, the tower is affectionately referred to as the heart of the dragon, with its head in Laolongtou (far east) and its tail in Jiayuguan (far west).
Built in 1607 during the Ming Dynasty, its purpose was to protect the markets where Mongolians and local people could trade in peace. It was an important marketplace because highly prized Mongolian horses were traded along with cloth, silk, tea and salt.
The watchtower is connected to the southwest corner of the wall. Tapering towards the top, the tower rises across four levels to a height of 98ft (30m) and average base width of 230ft (70m). Each level is narrower than the one below. The surrounding wall is around 550ft (167m) wide with the northwest corner linked to remnants of the Great Wall. Made of rammed earth, it is dressed in bricks and stone.
From the top floor to the north is the Yellow River, flowing through the large Hongshixia Reservoir, heading south for hundreds of miles.
Within the surrounding walls was Kuangong City, where officials used to entertain Mongolian messengers and discuss foreign affairs. During peacetime, Mongolians showered the emperors with gifts such as livestock and in return they would receive silk, cloth and medicine. It was a prosperous city in the past but very little is left today.
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Remember Laolongtou, Old Dragon Head, at the beginning of this journey? He was drinking from the sea whilst the rest of his serpentine body, aka the Great Wall, contoured over the lofty mountain peaks and across valleys in a constant up and down motion. I am still searching for the tail.
The Chinese dragon is a legendary creature that is often associated with wealth, power and leadership. They are seen as noble and wise, exuding a good dose of luck and are often depicted breathing clouds instead of fire. It has control over watery phenomenon and is usually pictured floating in the sky, chasing flaming pearls, a treasured possession, that are said to multiply or enlarge anything that they come into contact with.
For a time during ancient China, only emperors were permitted to have items with dragon images on them. The dragon robe was an everyday garment used by royalty since the 7th century. It was a circular-collared robe embellished with dragons to symbolize imperial power. Over time, the cuts of the robes were modified to suit the ruling dynasty but the embroidered dragons were ever-present.
Chinese dragons are usually illustrated as having long, snake-like bodies and sharp, hawk-like claws. However, they can at times be rendered as other shapes such as dragon turtles. With the body of a turtle and the head of a dragon, the creature is typically associated with feng shui, symbolizing courage, longevity, success and more.
Dating back to 206BC, the Dragon Dance is the highlight of many festivities, especially Chinese New Year and the Lantern Festival. The dragon, up to 230ft (70m) long, is made of bamboo hoops covered with fabric and held by dancers. The dragon is moved in all directions, dancing to the sound of pounding drums. They are wonderfully colourful spectacles.
The Dragon Boat Festival is another important event that has the status of being included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The event commemorates the ancient poet, Qu Yuan, who drowned himself as a “gesture of dying along with his motherland” when his home state was invaded. The boat is shaped in the form of a Chinese dragon and the team paddles harmoniously to the sound of beating drums. The winning team is said to have good luck and a happy life in the following year.
Chinese dragons permeate everywhere, from architecture to textiles, artwork to ceramics, metalwork, jewellery, festivals, astrology and idioms. China is home to the most places named after dragons in the world.
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The Great Wall of China (‘’the Wall”) is one of the most remarkable man-made structures in the world, with the longest building timeline. Beginning in the 7th century BC it continued on and off over several centuries until it peaked in the mid-17th century AD.
The Chinese were masters at building walls. First, they built them around their homes and cities as protection from their ferocious nomadic neighbours. Then, they built them to protect their borders from the wars that raged within their own nation. Most walls were of varying lengths and scattered throughout the land.
The Qin Dynasty squashed the various internal wars, unifying China in 221BC and established the First Empire. Shi Huangdi, the first Emperor and a ruthless ruler, used hundreds of thousands of people to connect and extend the existing walls for defence. By the end of this dynasty 3,000mi (4,800km) of wall ran along the northern border.
The Han Dynasty came next and building on the Wall ceased for a short period. Focus turned to peacetime and opening trade with the West. However, the nomads began raiding again, reprising the need for the Wall to be repaired and extended further. Safeguarding travelling traders became just as important as keeping the nomads out.
After the Han, the Wall was left neglected and crumbling. Vulnerable to attack, it was the sheer size of the Chinese army that kept most intruders at bay until Kublai Khan, a fierce Mongol warrior, forced his way into the capital and took the throne. With both sides of the Wall now Mongol territory, the Wall was no longer needed. Abandoned, much of the early construction disintegrated over time and very little now remains.
The Mongol rule was never accepted. A few decades after Kublai’s death, an uprising forced all the Mongols out and the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644AD) came into power. With the capital city in Beijing, it was much too close to the enemy border. A new wall was rebuilt from scratch. At time of completion, the Wall was 5,500mi (8,850km) long, built by millions of soldiers and forced labourers over a period of 200 years. It is the remnants of this Wall that continues to exist today.
This journey of 2,183mi (3,513km) will begin at its most eastern end where the Wall meets the sea. Regarded as the start of the Great Wall, it is known as Laolongtou (Old Dragon’s Head) because the structure, consisting of a beacon tower and battlement walls, resembles a dragon drinking water from the sea.
The Wall twists and turns its way through the landscape, just like the legendary Chinese Dragon. It crosses mountains tightly straddling narrow cliffs, over lakes and sometimes under, into valleys and through deserts until it reaches the westernmost point ending in a remote outpost in Yangguan.
From the sea breeze on the wall of Laolongtou to the searing sun of the Gobi Desert, I hope to piece together the lengthy story of the Great Wall and the Emperors, Dynasties and Generals that left their mark on it.
Fast facts to give some sense of timeline and the main dynasties during the Wall’s construction:
5th to 3rd century BC – Warring States (Chinese states fighting amongst each other)
221 to 206 BC – Qin Dynasty (First Empire)
206 BC to 220 AD – Han Dynasty
386 to 577 AD – Northern and Southern Dynasties
1125 to 1234 AD – Jin Dynasty (conquered by Mongols)
1368 to 1644 AD – Ming Dynasty (Builders of currently existing wall)
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