Route 66 - Conway, Texas

If you're not looking for it, you might miss Conway, what with it only having a population of 20 at the time of the census in 2000. However, it's real panhandle territory that was more densely populated 10,000 years ago by hunter-gatherers, as evidenced by the stone tools they left behind.

Prior to any European discovery and invasion, those early Native Americans hunted on foot - the Spanish introduced European horses in the 15th century. They were soon completely outstripped in terms of horsemanship. The native population here - as elsewhere along Route 66 - was confined to reservations, and the territory was up for a succession of land runs.

Before Conway was Conway, it had a school, a post office, and a railway. In 1905, it acquired a name and an increased population - in 1939, there were 125 residents, despite hard financial times across the country. However, a decline began in the late 1960s; the post office and railway closed, and the I-40 bypassed the town, leading to a population you can literally count on your fingers and toes today.

That late 1960s decline, however, gave Conway - and Route 66 - one of the strangest sights along the route, burying five Volkswagen Beetles nose-down in the dirt. No one 'owns' the site, and visitors are encouraged to bring spray paint to leave their mark behind.



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Torres del Paine - Welcome Center

 

I moved further inland and forged on around the base of the massif with the lake visible down below. On my travels I passed a horseback tour led by Chilean cowboys who are known for their excellent horsemanship. They are highly skilled trackers and guides who develop a very strong bond with their horses. Known for their strong sense of direction and ability to avoid hazards such as bogs and swamps, anyone travelling with them is in good hands. They source water and shelter anywhere and easily move through the night finding their way.

The Chilean horse, aka Criollo, is one of the oldest breeds on the continent. They are typically smaller than the usual North American or European breeds. The Spanish Conquistadors brought the horses in the 15th-16th centuries, and the criollos are their descendants. The breed has had hundreds of years to develop and adapt to the harsh environment of Patagonia.

I reached the entrance of Ascencio Valley, where the famous Los Torres (The Towers) peaks reside. The most magical time to experience the peaks is at sunrise. As the sun rises, the peaks are bathed in a fiery-orange glow. Timing the sunrise is crucial as the glow only lasts a few minutes.

The final section was fording the Ascencio River, heading past Las Torres Hotel and ending my journey back at the Welcome Center where I began. Here, I stopped for refreshments and took the time to look back at the massif with Almirante Nieto being the bulk of the view to the left, Los Torres peeking from behind and Cerro Nido de Condor to the right. It was fascinating to see the green, flat landscape before me but as I scanned upwards the landscape changed to hills, then craggy snow-capped mountains followed by jagged granite peaks.

Contemplating the journey, I was in awe at the varied landscape. There were the wide-open plains and old forests; glacial lakes, rumbling rivers, and the magnificent Grey Glacier; the endless peaks seen from every angle and deep valleys leading into the interior of the massif. The constant throughout the whole trip was the blustering wind. Relentless and intense, it added that extra challenge to my travels.

Now I bid you farewell, until the next time.



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