Ring Road Iceland - Reykjahlíð

When I arrived in Reykjahlíð I rolled out my map and pinned everything I wanted to see in this area that didn't include the two waterfalls I had to see halfway between Akureyri and Reykjahlíð. There is no end to the breathtaking scenery in this country. So grab a cuppa and let me regale you with my exploits.

On my way to Reykjahlíð, I took a very short detour at Fossholl to checkout Goðafoss. It is a 30m (98ft) wide curved waterfall with a 12m (39ft) drop. Legend says that a lawmaker, who was also a pagan priest, meditated for one day and night and decided in favour of Christianity. When he returned home, he threw his Norse god idols into the nearby waterfall which is now known as Goðafoss, "the waterfall of the gods". The story is illustrated in the window of Akureyri's main church. A further 500m (1,640ft) below Goðafoss is the smaller Geitafoss at about half the width and height which is thought to be swallowed up when the depth of the river increases within the gorge due to floods.

When the volcano Krafla erupted 300 years ago, the townspeople of Reykjahlíð fortunately survived as they huddled in the church up on higher ground where the lava flow stopped. The town itself was completely destroyed. Thankfully today I can use it as a place to visit the nearby natural wonders.

I started with the Myvatn volcanic lake. With its high level of biological activity it provides a habitat for waterbirds such as ducks (15-16 species of duck). The lake began 2300 years ago when a basaltic lava erupted. South of the lake are pseudocraters (aka rootless cones) which look like volcanic craters but are actually formed by steam explosions when flowing lava crosses a wet surface like a lake.

There are many hot springs in the area with contradictory advice if swimmable or not but the following two are worth exploring. Stóragjá for instance is an ancient subterranean cave filled with naturally heated thermal springs. It is a bit of an adventure climbing down a very narrow ravine before clambering into the cave using ropes followed by carved steps. The beautiful blue colour of the water is very inviting but the dangerous algae and lack of filtration makes the spring unsafe for bathers.

The more popular Grjótagjá Cave rose to fame after its appearance in an episode of Game of Thrones. It used to be a popular bathing location until the mid-70s when following an eruption the water temperature rose beyond 50°C (122°F). Due to the liquid rock a mile beneath the surface the temperature remains high making swimming unsafe.

Once I surfaced from the subterranean caves, I took a hike onto Hverfjall Crater. Described as a tephra cone or tuff ring volcano, it is one of the largest of its kind in the world due to its 1km (0.6mi) diameter. The 396m (1300ft) walk up a steep path and around the crater's rim provides a great view of the Myvatn region and nearby lava fields.

The Myvatn Nature Baths is beckoning me for a leisurely steam bath in its alkaline lagoon but first one final stop at Hverir to see the boiling mud pits and steaming fumaroles that emit sulphuric gases. The pits are surrounded by colourful sulphur crystals which unfortunately give off a strong egg-like smell. The area's high acidity levels inhibits vegetation from growing.

It's time for my geo-thermal soak.

Cheerio,

Richard



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Ring Road Iceland - Vatnsskarð

Travelling through Vatnsskarð mountain pass on the way to Varmahlíð, I came across Stephan G. Stephansson's monument. Stephan was a renown Icelandic poet and farmer from the region who suffered from insomnia. As such he would write all night after finishing his farming work. A self-educated man, he only wrote in Icelandic even though he emigrated when he was 19 years old to Wisconsin, USA and later to Alberta, Canada. He returned to Iceland for the first time 45 years later when he was 64 years old and although none of his poetry has survived only his letters, he is highly regarded and considered "as one of Iceland's foremost men of letters".

The village of Varmahlíð is home to 140 residents. Small it may be but it is not to be underestimated. Living on the slope of a hill, the village is in the centre of the most prosperous agricultural region, rich in geo-thermal water and contains a number of greenhouses that grow tropical and sub-tropical fruit and vegetables.

The village is home to Iceland's most famous men's choir, Karlakórinn Heimir. Originally founded in 1927 it travels the world singing. In its 93 years, the choir has only had three conductors of which the second conductor held his position for 40 years.

The region's main industry is the Icelandic horse. A pure breed described as small almost pony-like, yet sturdy and hardy horse. Native to Iceland they have few diseases and due to Iceland's strict no horse-import policy they are not vaccinated against potential diseases. Although Icelandic horses are exported, once they leave the country they cannot return. Unique to these horses are their gaits. Known for their sure-footedness and ability to cross rough terrain the horses have an additional two gaits. Although difficult to articulate have a look at this link that describes their special gaits and history on how they arrived during the Viking Age in the 9th-10th centuries. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icelandic_horse

Just north of Varmahlíð is the Glaumbær Farm and Museum, exhibiting 18th-19th centuries rural living in turf-roofed farmhouses. Turf was used as building material which first appeared over 1,000 years ago when the Vikings arrived. As timber was sparse and slow to regrow, the Vikings used turf to lay over a timber structure to form walls and a thick roof. The turf was sturdy and easily available providing insulation from the cold climate. However, due to its biodegradability and erosion from the harsh climate the turf needed to be replaced every 20 years.

Of course no daily trip is complete without a stop at a waterfall. Only 7km (4mi) from Varmahlíð, is Reykjafoss waterfall which is a result of Huseyjarkvisl river cascading 20m (69ft) over two wide steps into the river below and flowing onwards to the Atlantic Ocean. The Huseyjarkvisl river is one of the top sea trout rivers. Large fish are caught each year with one of the biggest measuring 96cm (3ft) and weighing as much as 6kg (13lb). Catch and release practices were introduced in 2000 which is one of the reasons for such large fish and the double digit catches.

Bye,

Richard



PS. Experience our virtual challenges in real life - The Conqueror Adventures

The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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