Yosemite - Half Dome

Having left Yosemite Falls, I criss-crossed Merced River, connecting with a trail that took me to Mirror Lake. Being a calm day, the clear lake reflected the surrounding cliffs, providing gorgeous reflection-themed photo opportunities.

Whilst the lake is full during spring and early summer, the rest of the year it dries up and is often referred to as Mirror Meadow, filled with grasses and sandy spots. Taking in my surroundings, I could see Mt Watkins, Washington Column, North Dome, and another perspective of Half Dome which I was heading towards to climb to the top.

The Half Dome climb to the summit is not for the faint of heart. Rising 5,000ft (1,250m) above Yosemite Valley and 8,800ft (2,680m) above sea level, the trail to Half Dome was the longest and steepest hike in the park. There were two major components in climbing the dome. The first was tackling the sub dome which I climbed via steps in a zig-zag fashion. The steps were rugged without handrails for support or balance. As I moved to higher altitude the air got thinner and my breathing harder. Keeping myself in check for altitude sickness, I made sure I drank plenty of water and monitored my physical well being. Any sign of headache or dizziness and I would have had to return to lower altitude.

The next stage was climbing the cables. Two sets of cables are set into the rock with wood plank steps set at intervals. The 400ft (120m) climb was vertical and exposed.

Luckily there were no clouds over my head because in wet weather the rock becomes slick and the cables difficult to hold on to. Getting stuck on the cables would expose me to the risk of lightning and the cables themselves can become electrified. Thankfully, the sky was blue and I could focus on getting to the top. Reaching the summit, I was met with stunning views of the valley and the High Sierra.

Absorbing the beauty of this place, I lined up a series of panoramic shots on my trusty camera before I turned to go back down. Descending those 5,000 vertical feet (1,250m) was surprisingly much harder than going up. The risk of falling or slipping was ever-present but a slow and steady approach saw me back at ground level safe and sound.



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Yosemite - El Capitan

I spent the next 3mi (5km) on an uneventful meander, enjoying the beautiful forest and having the Merced River’s company as it wound its way beside me. I took a little detour to Bridalveil Fall. It is known for thundering during the spring so much that reaching the trail's end is sometimes impossible because of the strong spray created as it plummets 620ft (189m) from above.

I crossed the river on its northern side and stopped at one of the valley’s viewpoints. The granite cliffs rose above the treelines with a commanding presence whilst Bridalveil Fall tumbled in the distance from a hanging valley. Here I sat in silence, listening to the birds singing, the river babbling and feeling the trees filling my lungs with clean air. It was easy for me to imagine the valley's summer color palette of green and grey slowly changing to a warm palette in autumn and a cool palette of white, grey and icy blue by winter.

My next stop was the 100-million-year-old, granite rock called El Capitan (‘the captain’). A million years ago, glaciers carved this vertical rock formation. Whilst the summit of El Capitan can be reached via a trail hike, the challenge is in the technical climb up The Nose, a route ascending 2,900ft (880m) up the central buttress of the monolith. The first ascent was completed in 1958 by Warren Harding, an accomplished rock climber who succeeded in climbing some 28 first ascents in Yosemite. It took him 47 days to summit El Capitan and it would take another 27 years before The Nose was successfully completed in one day.

Leaving the climbing to the experts, I chose to enjoy this grand rock formation from the meadows adjacent to it. Laying out a picnic blanket in the centre with snacks and drinks, I took in the splendid 360 degrees of towering cliffs and surrounding trees. I think I may while away some time here in the sunshine amongst this magnificent landscape.

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Yosemite - Four Mile Trail

Crossing the bridge over Merced River, I entered woodland on a narrow and well-maintained trail, albeit a bit rocky and uneven. Occasional openings between the trees afforded views of granite domes and the green landscape below. The sheer granite wall on one side of the trail was met with a sheer drop on the other with either no barrier for safety or just a very low wall separating the trail from the edge. As I progressed, the terrain became more rugged and rockier but the picturesque view of Nevada Fall’s bend and the adjacent granite dome called Liberty Cap was worthy of a break and some well thought out photographic moments.

I turned right at Clark Point and descended on a wild section of the trail down to the Emerald Pool for a dip in the cool water. The Merced River continued to move around and over large boulders until it tumbled once again down Vernal Falls. A lookout sat at the top of the fall with views across the narrow canyon. A fun sidenote, Vernal Falls was incorrectly shown on a 1932 stamp. A set of seven stamps depicting landmarks in the Philippines were produced by the US. One of the stamps was originally supposed to depict Pagsanjan Falls, but because the designer could not find an acceptable image, Vernal Falls was substituted. It was discovered when a philatelist with a keen eye recognised the falls.

I continued with my hike to Glacier Point where John Muir and President Roosevelt stood on a rocky outcrop admiring Yosemite Valley during their camping trip in 1903. Many of the park’s landmarks are visible from this viewpoint including the imposing Half Dome with its sheer cliff-face on one side and rounded dome on the other.   

Connecting to the Four Mile Trail, I began my descent into the valley. Constructed in 1872 as a toll path, the trail was very steep, with plenty of switchbacks as it wound its way down. Hard on the knees going down, I took plenty of breaks filling my camera with panoramic shots of the valley and its many landmarks.

I ended this section in the valley at the Four Mile Trailhead and turned left toward Bridalveil Falls.



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