Ring Road Iceland - Hof

On the way to Hof, Iceland the Ring Road crosses over the famous Jökulsárlón glacial lake. It is the deepest lake in Iceland at 284m (932ft) and as a result of glacial melting it has grown fourfold since the 1970s. As icebergs calve from the glacier's edge they start floating towards the sea. Waves polish the icebergs and float them onto the black sands of Breiðamerkusandur, a glacial outwash plain. It is nicknamed Diamond Beach, because the polished ice on the black sands looks like diamonds glistening in the sun. Due to floating icebergs in the lagoon the bridge is reinforced with a row of stone boulders that prevents the icebergs from hitting the pillars and stops the foundations from eroding.

When I arrived in "Hof, Iceland" I was very curious about why the name Iceland is tagged on the end of Hof. It's the only village in Iceland that seems to carry the name like this. I couldn't find an answer but what I did discover is how new this village is. Hof, Iceland was nothing more than a collection of farms until 2017 when increased tourism created a shortage of housing in the region. The local government wasted no time and commenced building new streets and housing around the already existing primary school.

The village's church has been there since 1884 and it was the last turf church ever built in Iceland and the only one that continues to be a practising parish. Looking at the church from the rear it looks as if it's sinking but it's actually partially buried in the ground in order to use the earth as natural insulation.

The village is in the foothills of Ӧræfajökull glacier which covers the largest active volcano that last erupted in 1727. At 2,110m (6,955ft) the volcano is the highest peak in Iceland. The volcano has phreatic eruptions which happens when magma heats ground water. The magma's extreme temperature causes "near-instantaneous evaporation of water resulting in an explosion of steam, water, ash, rock and volcanic bombs" which then deposit in the surrounding areas. The volcano's 1362 eruption destroyed everything in the region and deposited 10km³ (2.4mi³) of volcanic material. It took 40 years to resettle the area. Unsurprisingly the region's name was changed to Ӧræfi, meaning "wasteland".

North of Hof, Iceland is Svartifoss a slender 20m (66ft) high waterfall. The beauty of this waterfall is the geometric rock face being a 3D wall of hexagonal basalt column. These columnar joint formations are often an inspiration for Icelandic architecture such as the main church in Reykjavik.

Fjaðrárgljúfur is an ancient, massive river canyon with steep walls up to 100m (330ft) high and water winding its way through the canyon for at least 2km (1.2mi). Its origins date back two million years when the pressure of flowing water from glaciers cut through the bedrock creating these deep channels with steep valley walls. Sadly, the canyon's environment was threatened due to the influx of visitors and the authorities closed access to the canyon.



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Ring Road Iceland - Djúpigovur

Having reached east of Iceland, my journey took me through a jagged coastline of fjords. Although Egilsstaðir is the largest town in this region, Djúpigovur is the oldest municipality by receiving its trading license in 1589. Located on a peninsula between two fjords, the town is home to the oldest commercial building in the country known as Langabúð (early 19thC). Today the building is a café, heritage museum and has an exhibition on local sculptor, Ríkarður Jónsson who in 1918 won a competition to create a new coat of arms for Iceland.

Not far from town is an outdoor art installation called, The Eggs of Merry Bay. Along the bay are 34 large replica eggs that are meant to be a tribute to the native birds of Iceland. Each egg, set atop a concrete slab, "depicts the shape, patterns and colours of the individual bird egg it represents". With the exception of one, the eggs are all close in size. The larger singled out egg, was the sculpture honouring the red-throated diver which is the official bird of Djúpigovur.

Classified as a "Cittaslow" town, Djúpigovur is the first and only one in Iceland. Cittaslow is a cultural trend towards slow movement. Founded in 1999 Italy, Cittaslow's aim is to improve the quality of life in towns by slowing down the pace, promote healthier lifestyles, environmental protection, cultural diversity and resist cultural standardisation. Djúpigovur is one of 192 Cittaslow towns around the world.

The nearby Papey Island was settled by two monks who might have fled Norse attacks on the mainland and founded a hermitage. The island's name is Celtic, meaning "Friar's Island". It has the oldest wooden church in the country. Uninhabited since 1948 when the last resident left, it is a great place to see puffins, guillemots, other birds and seals.

Climbingslopewaterfalls is the literal translation to Klifbrekkufossar, a waterfall that looks like a series of waterfalls one above the other falling from a 90m (295ft) height but Klifbrekkufossar is a singular waterfall that lands on a series of ledges before winding itself down the river. Being spring-fed the river is not contaminated by dirt, like glacial rivers, thereby making the water clear and clean giving the waterfall a sense of purity.



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Ring Road Iceland - Reykjavik

It's been a great first day. When I arrived in Iceland at Keflavik International Airport, instead of going straight to Reykjavik, it was recommended that I take a side trip to the geothermal spa named Blue Lagoon. It is located in a lava field and the water is supplied by the nearby geothermal power plant. This man-made lagoon has a milky blue colour which is largely due to the high content of silica (a chemical compound containing oxygen and silicon). The lagoon is also high in algae and salt. Bathers with psoriasis have found it beneficial to their skin to bathe in the lagoon.

Having spent a couple of hours in the lagoon, a great way to rejuvenate from my flight, I headed into Reykjavik for some exploration. Reykjavik is the capital city of Iceland and the world's most northernmost capital. The first settlement was in 874AD and the city itself was founded in 1785 as a trading town which steadily grew and expanded to become the national centre it is today.

I headed to Grandi Harbor as several points of interest are located there and started with a visit at the Whales of Iceland, a wonderful museum exhibiting 23 man-made life size models of various whales. I was particularly taken by the 25m (82ft) long blue whale model. It's a tactile experience as each hand-painted model is designed to be soft and squishy and accessible to visitors.

Nearby is the Maritime Museum exhibiting Iceland's maritime history including displays of 100-year old fishing boats. What makes this visit interesting is the decommissioned Coast Guard and rescue vessel Óðinn moored near the museum providing visitors an opportunity to see and learn about its custom design and special duties patrolling Iceland's territorial fishing grounds. During its service (1960-2006) the vessel towed 200 ships to safety, rescued stranded crews and twice saved the lives of crews from sinking ships.

At the north-east edge of Grandi is a small dome shaped hill with an encircling path to the top. This art installation with a fish drying shed on top is a lovely contemplative spot with a terrific view of the harbour and the glistening honeycomb design of the Harpa Concert Hall.

As I made my way along the shore, I came across the Sun Voyager, a stainless steel sculpture designed by Jón Gunnar as a commemoration of the city's 200th anniversary. Often mistaken as a Viking ship, the artist describes the work as "...a dream boat, an ode to the sun. It symbolizes the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom."

With that in mind, I forge ahead and commence my 1,332km (828mi) round-the-island journey on Route 1 better known as Ring Road.

Take care and I'll write again soon.



See ya,

Richard

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