Leaving Florence through the San Gallo Gate, the trail veered east over gentle hills, past the small hamlet of Compiobbi, along the river bank of Arno River to Pontassieve. This ancient walled commune was originally named Castel Sant'Angelo later changing it to be named after the 16thC bridge over the Sieve River. Pontassieve suffered severely during WWII, as the Allies heavily bombed the village, destroying it almost entirely. The current appearance is largely a result of post-war reconstruction, although it continues to maintain a medieval look in the city centre.
From Pontassieve I climbed through Chianti vineyards up to the village of Diacceto. The Chianti recipe was first created in the middle of the 19thC by Baron Bettino Ricasoli when he combined Sangiovese grapes with Canaiolo and Malvasia bianca grapes. Historically the wine was closely associated with a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket but has since shifted to regular bottling.
Heading into the mountains, I hiked uphill through the small villages of Ferrano and Consuma, reaching the first mountain pass called Passo Della Consuma at an elevation of 3,445ft (1,050m). I weaved my way around the mountain at this altitude until I reached the village of Campolombardo where I began my descent into the pretty village of Stia (1,476ft/450m). In the 19thC woolen fabric was produced in Stia to clothe monks and nuns in the area at first and later the wealthy families of Tuscany. The largest wool mill was built in 1838 and employed 500+ people. The factory produced 2.3 million feet (700,000m) of cloth per year until it ceased production in the 1990s. In 2010 it was opened as a museum of wool production.
I took this opportunity to have lunch at a local restaurant indulging my senses with crepes filled with melted pecorino and leeks as an appetizer followed by spaghetti alla chittara topped with scallops and zucchini and washing it down with a glass of chianti.
Refreshed and a full belly, I gently began my ascent to Sacro Eremo Di Camaldoli (3,937ft/1,200m), a monastery and hermitage surrounded by dense fir forests in the heart of the Camaldoli National Park.
Camaldoli is a community of Benedictine monks that was founded by San Romualdo, a 10thC nobleman turned monk. San Romualdo was born into aristocracy and lived an indulgent life until he witnessed his father kill a relative over property. Devastated he did 40 days of penance and continuing to struggling with the situation decided to become a monk and live in seclusion spending the next ten years studying monasticism. With his new found knowledge he spent the next 30 years travelling through Italy building monasteries and hermitages such as the Camaldoli.
The Camaldoli is made of two houses, the Sacred Hermitage and the Monastery. They "represent two fundamental dimensions of the monastic experience, solitude and communion". Where the hermitage is a place of solitude, silence, prayer and work; the monastery is a place of fraternal life and community. The monastery welcomes visitors to share in their faith through hospitality. The monastery also has a guesthouse called Foresteria which is open for cultural and spiritual retreats and events.
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This is a collection of my writing and correspondence with a few bits of poetry and random thoughts mixed in. I started this blog after learning that some of my letters had an uplifting quality. In the pages of this blog you will find my real life trials and tribulations, the nature of what I think is truth, and the dust and grit of my real life.
Friday, January 5, 2024
Wednesday, January 3, 2024
St Francis Way - Florence
The romantic city of Florence is a visual feast of Renaissance architecture, art and monuments. Famous historical figures from the Renaissance era (14th-17thC) such as Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Galileo and Donatello, emerged from Florence producing and leaving an incredible body of work that continues to move and inspire people today. Museums, galleries, cafes and restaurants are in every nook and cranny. And then, there's the food; gloriously filling, tastebud dazzling, tantalisingly aromatic. Every corner is an architectural experience from Corinthian columns, grand domes and endless arches to interiors adorned with richly-detailed frescoes and motifs.
Filled with 2,000+ years of history, Florence began as a settlement in 59BC, established by Julius Caesar, the Roman Emperor for his veteran soldiers. It quickly became a commercial centre and a major crossroad between Bologna and Rome. Florence is currently the capital city of Tuscany with the highest population density in the region. In 1982 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.
The most iconic building is the cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, otherwise known as the Duomo. Built between 1296-1436 in a Gothic style it towers over the city with its terracotta-tile dome visible from all of the nearby hilltops. The Piazzale Michelangelo across the river from the cathedral provides a magnificent view of the city of Florence and the Duomo.
A stroll alongside the River Arno leads to the very popular Ponte Vecchio, translated as "Old Bridge". The bridge is a medieval arched bridge built in 1345 and at one time housed shops run by butchers, tanners and farmers. Now it is tenanted primarily by jewellers, art dealers and souvenir sellers. During WWII, at the behest of German officer, Gerhard Wolf, the bridge was spared destruction unlike the neighbouring bridges which were detonated in order to buy more time for the German retreat. Wolf was once a student in Florence and had a special affinity towards the bridge. The Florentine's made him an honorary citizen in 1955 and placed a plaque on the bridge in his honour in 2007.
Some notable artworks that can be found in Florence are Michelangelo's sculpture of "David", a marble sculpture completed early 16thC; Leonardo da Vinci's oil and tempera painting "Anunciation" dating late 15thC; and Boticelli's tempera painting "The Birth of Venus" dating late 15thC. There is no shortage of paintings, sculptures, fountains or architecture to immerse oneself in but when rest is needed head for the nearest coffee bar and ask for a café macchiato. Italians traditionally stand at a bar to have their shot of coffee instead of sitting at a table before pressing on with their day.
The Way of St Francis pilgrimage begins at the Basilica di Santa Croce, a 13thC Franciscan church located in the Piazza Santa Croce. The church is the burial site for Galileo (astronomer), Machiavelli (politician and diplomat) and Rossini (composer) and many other notable Italians. Dante was originally buried here but was later moved. His tomb, however, remains on site. A memorial plaque for Da Vinci (polymath) and memorial monument for Florence Nightingale (pioneer of modern nursing) can also be found here. Outside the church is a monument to classical writer, Dante Alighieri, built in 1865 by Enrico Pazzi.
The pilgrimage trail is 312mi (550km) long and inspired by the life of St Francis of Assisi. Taking an ancient Roman route from Florence to Rome via Assisi, the trail finishes at Basilica di San Pietro in the Vatican City. The route travels past ancient ruins, through medieval villages, crossing mountain passes and valleys, making this pilgrimage perfect for nature lovers, history buffs and outdoor enthusiasts.
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Filled with 2,000+ years of history, Florence began as a settlement in 59BC, established by Julius Caesar, the Roman Emperor for his veteran soldiers. It quickly became a commercial centre and a major crossroad between Bologna and Rome. Florence is currently the capital city of Tuscany with the highest population density in the region. In 1982 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.
The most iconic building is the cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, otherwise known as the Duomo. Built between 1296-1436 in a Gothic style it towers over the city with its terracotta-tile dome visible from all of the nearby hilltops. The Piazzale Michelangelo across the river from the cathedral provides a magnificent view of the city of Florence and the Duomo.
A stroll alongside the River Arno leads to the very popular Ponte Vecchio, translated as "Old Bridge". The bridge is a medieval arched bridge built in 1345 and at one time housed shops run by butchers, tanners and farmers. Now it is tenanted primarily by jewellers, art dealers and souvenir sellers. During WWII, at the behest of German officer, Gerhard Wolf, the bridge was spared destruction unlike the neighbouring bridges which were detonated in order to buy more time for the German retreat. Wolf was once a student in Florence and had a special affinity towards the bridge. The Florentine's made him an honorary citizen in 1955 and placed a plaque on the bridge in his honour in 2007.
Some notable artworks that can be found in Florence are Michelangelo's sculpture of "David", a marble sculpture completed early 16thC; Leonardo da Vinci's oil and tempera painting "Anunciation" dating late 15thC; and Boticelli's tempera painting "The Birth of Venus" dating late 15thC. There is no shortage of paintings, sculptures, fountains or architecture to immerse oneself in but when rest is needed head for the nearest coffee bar and ask for a café macchiato. Italians traditionally stand at a bar to have their shot of coffee instead of sitting at a table before pressing on with their day.
The Way of St Francis pilgrimage begins at the Basilica di Santa Croce, a 13thC Franciscan church located in the Piazza Santa Croce. The church is the burial site for Galileo (astronomer), Machiavelli (politician and diplomat) and Rossini (composer) and many other notable Italians. Dante was originally buried here but was later moved. His tomb, however, remains on site. A memorial plaque for Da Vinci (polymath) and memorial monument for Florence Nightingale (pioneer of modern nursing) can also be found here. Outside the church is a monument to classical writer, Dante Alighieri, built in 1865 by Enrico Pazzi.
The pilgrimage trail is 312mi (550km) long and inspired by the life of St Francis of Assisi. Taking an ancient Roman route from Florence to Rome via Assisi, the trail finishes at Basilica di San Pietro in the Vatican City. The route travels past ancient ruins, through medieval villages, crossing mountain passes and valleys, making this pilgrimage perfect for nature lovers, history buffs and outdoor enthusiasts.
PS. Experience our virtual challenges in real life - The Conqueror Adventures
The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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Monday, January 1, 2024
Road to Hana - Alelele Falls Viewpoint
Crossing the bridge at Oheo Gulch, a series of tiered pools can be seen from the roadside that make up the area known as The Pools of Oheo. Palikea Stream flows through the gulch creating a succession of waterfalls that cascade from one pool to the next, before travelling beneath the bridge and pouring into the ocean. The pools are a tranquil and peaceful swimming area, except during heavy rains when they are prone to flash flooding and become a safety hazard.
The pools are also informally referred to as the Seven Sacred Pools, a term coined in the 1940s by a local businessman who wanted to draw more tourists to Hana and its surrounds. The marketing worked since visitors to the area increased, bringing new concerns that the land and its natural pools would eventually be lost to commercial development and become inaccessible to the public. To alleviate this concern a parcel of land was purchased and donated to the district for safekeeping. In 1969 it was incorporated into the Haleakalā National Park, remaining a publicly usable space in perpetuity.
The nearby Pipiwai Trail is a 4mi loop that leads through a dense bamboo forest, past a huge banyan tree and the 185ft (56m) Makahiku Falls. The trail ends amongst dense jungle at one of Maui’s tallest waterfalls, the 400ft (121m) Waimoku Falls.
Returning to the highway and a short distance away in a churchyard is the final resting place of Charles Lindbergh who in 1927 shot to fame as the first solo person to fly nonstop across the Atlantic from New York to Paris covering 3,600mi (5,800km) in 33.5 hours. His feat was a turning point in aviation development and advancement. In the latter part of his life, Lindbergh became a conservationist particularly concerned about the impact new technologies had on the Hawaiian people and their environment. As such he helped Laurence Rockefeller establish the Haleakala National Park that includes The Pools of Oheo.
Having arrived at the last bridge, known as Alelele Bridge, I took a short hike inland to the last waterfall on this journey, the Alelele Falls and its 40ft (12m) drop over black lava rock formations. The small pool was cool and refreshing for a final dip. I reached the end of my travels at Alelele Falls Viewpoint, a small roadside pull-out with views of Maui’s east coast and narrow winding highway. Here I completed my 64mi (103km) Road to Hana journey.
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The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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The pools are also informally referred to as the Seven Sacred Pools, a term coined in the 1940s by a local businessman who wanted to draw more tourists to Hana and its surrounds. The marketing worked since visitors to the area increased, bringing new concerns that the land and its natural pools would eventually be lost to commercial development and become inaccessible to the public. To alleviate this concern a parcel of land was purchased and donated to the district for safekeeping. In 1969 it was incorporated into the Haleakalā National Park, remaining a publicly usable space in perpetuity.
The nearby Pipiwai Trail is a 4mi loop that leads through a dense bamboo forest, past a huge banyan tree and the 185ft (56m) Makahiku Falls. The trail ends amongst dense jungle at one of Maui’s tallest waterfalls, the 400ft (121m) Waimoku Falls.
Returning to the highway and a short distance away in a churchyard is the final resting place of Charles Lindbergh who in 1927 shot to fame as the first solo person to fly nonstop across the Atlantic from New York to Paris covering 3,600mi (5,800km) in 33.5 hours. His feat was a turning point in aviation development and advancement. In the latter part of his life, Lindbergh became a conservationist particularly concerned about the impact new technologies had on the Hawaiian people and their environment. As such he helped Laurence Rockefeller establish the Haleakala National Park that includes The Pools of Oheo.
Having arrived at the last bridge, known as Alelele Bridge, I took a short hike inland to the last waterfall on this journey, the Alelele Falls and its 40ft (12m) drop over black lava rock formations. The small pool was cool and refreshing for a final dip. I reached the end of my travels at Alelele Falls Viewpoint, a small roadside pull-out with views of Maui’s east coast and narrow winding highway. Here I completed my 64mi (103km) Road to Hana journey.
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The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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Friday, December 29, 2023
Road to Hana - Wailua Falls
With the hairpin turns ending in Hana this next stage of the journey is a little more straightforward with a few gentle curves along the east coast of Maui. A slight detour for more beach opportunities are presented with either Koki Beach for surfing and views of Alau Island in the distance or Hamoa Beach further south that is great for bodysurfing and views of a row of pine trees on Maka’Alae Point.
The pine trees known as Cook Pines are endemic to New Caledonia but have been cultivated around the world including Hawaii. First classified by naturalist Johann Forster, the pines were named after Captain James Cook whom Forster joined on the 1772 round the world voyage. A quirky phenomenon about the Cook Pines is their lack of upright growth and rather obvious tilt. Looking like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the strange aspect of its lean is that those cultivated north of the equator such as Southern California tend to lean southward and those cultivated south of the equator such as Australia or New Zealand tend to lean northwards. It seems depending where they are planted, they lean towards the equator. One particular tree in South Australia slants at a 40 degree angle.
With no shortage of waterfalls on the highway, Paihi Falls comes into view very close to the bridge. Tucked in a concave position, dense vegetation obscures it coming from Hana until pretty much located on the bridge. It is so close once seen you could almost reach out and touch it. At 50ft (15m) tall regardless of whether it’s a light trickle or full the waterfall is a pretty sight as it falls along several narrow rocky ledges to the pool below.
A quarter of a mile further (480m) is the scenic 95ft (29m) drop at Wailua Falls. Visible from the road, a better view is a short hike to the falls’ base to watch the upper section plunging halfway down onto a rocky ledge before fanning out slightly to cascade into the swimmable pond.
PS. Experience our virtual challenges in real life - The Conqueror Adventures
The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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The pine trees known as Cook Pines are endemic to New Caledonia but have been cultivated around the world including Hawaii. First classified by naturalist Johann Forster, the pines were named after Captain James Cook whom Forster joined on the 1772 round the world voyage. A quirky phenomenon about the Cook Pines is their lack of upright growth and rather obvious tilt. Looking like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the strange aspect of its lean is that those cultivated north of the equator such as Southern California tend to lean southward and those cultivated south of the equator such as Australia or New Zealand tend to lean northwards. It seems depending where they are planted, they lean towards the equator. One particular tree in South Australia slants at a 40 degree angle.
With no shortage of waterfalls on the highway, Paihi Falls comes into view very close to the bridge. Tucked in a concave position, dense vegetation obscures it coming from Hana until pretty much located on the bridge. It is so close once seen you could almost reach out and touch it. At 50ft (15m) tall regardless of whether it’s a light trickle or full the waterfall is a pretty sight as it falls along several narrow rocky ledges to the pool below.
A quarter of a mile further (480m) is the scenic 95ft (29m) drop at Wailua Falls. Visible from the road, a better view is a short hike to the falls’ base to watch the upper section plunging halfway down onto a rocky ledge before fanning out slightly to cascade into the swimmable pond.
PS. Experience our virtual challenges in real life - The Conqueror Adventures
The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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Wednesday, December 27, 2023
Road to Hana - Hana
A mere 2.4mi (3.8km) further from Upper Waikani Falls is the Wailua Iki Falls. More of a cascade visible from the road to the right, the flow is part of West Wailua Iki Stream coming from up north. The stream, making up the Lower Wailua Iki Falls, plunges 150ft (45m) beneath the bridge into a pool below. This part is easily missed on the way to Hana as it’s not visible from the road unless travelling in the opposite direction. A good view from the road is 528ft (160m) after the bridge looking back and even better is to hike down to the stream via the Wailua Iki Trail that’s nearby. The impressiveness of the falls is dependent on the amount of rain that has fallen which dictates the strength of the flow. Seeing the flow of the cascade on the right would be an indicator if it’s worth looking for the waterfall downstream.
The next roadside waterfall is Hanawi Falls. Fed by the ample waters of Hanawi Stream, this year-round cascade flows beneath a nearly century old bridge continuing 9mi (14km) downstream into the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by dense vegetation, the stream is home to an endangered damselfly species (similar to dragonfly) that feeds plants such as white ginger, the endemic koa tree and sandalwood. Groups of hala trees with its pineapple-shaped fruit are dotted throughout. Culturally significant many parts of the hala tree are used such as: the fruit, eaten fresh or preserved; the trunk as building materials; and the most common use are the leaves that are weaved into goods like baskets, mats or hats. One of the most pristine streams in Hawaii, the swimming hole is inviting but can be extremely cold.
Arriving in Hana is where the Road to Hana driving tour ends. However, this journey continues on along Hana Hwy for another 14mi (23km) or so along the east coast of Maui. Hana is a small community and one of the most isolated towns on the whole island. Settled by Polynesian people between the 6th-9th centuries, Hana was home to sugarcane plantations from the mid-1800s until 1949 when the last plantation closed. With the opening of the first inn, in the same year, Hana’s economy moved towards tourism which was further boosted with the construction of Hana Hwy.
Exploring Hana Bay along its black sand, a result of eroded lava that washed ashore, leads to Hana pier on the east side with views of Hana town and Haleakala Mountain in the background. Even more interesting is a meander along Kaihalulu Beach with its red-sand beach and whilst very rocky in some areas there is a sheltered swimmable area amongst its jagged ruggedness.
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The team at The Conqueror Challenges
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The next roadside waterfall is Hanawi Falls. Fed by the ample waters of Hanawi Stream, this year-round cascade flows beneath a nearly century old bridge continuing 9mi (14km) downstream into the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by dense vegetation, the stream is home to an endangered damselfly species (similar to dragonfly) that feeds plants such as white ginger, the endemic koa tree and sandalwood. Groups of hala trees with its pineapple-shaped fruit are dotted throughout. Culturally significant many parts of the hala tree are used such as: the fruit, eaten fresh or preserved; the trunk as building materials; and the most common use are the leaves that are weaved into goods like baskets, mats or hats. One of the most pristine streams in Hawaii, the swimming hole is inviting but can be extremely cold.
Arriving in Hana is where the Road to Hana driving tour ends. However, this journey continues on along Hana Hwy for another 14mi (23km) or so along the east coast of Maui. Hana is a small community and one of the most isolated towns on the whole island. Settled by Polynesian people between the 6th-9th centuries, Hana was home to sugarcane plantations from the mid-1800s until 1949 when the last plantation closed. With the opening of the first inn, in the same year, Hana’s economy moved towards tourism which was further boosted with the construction of Hana Hwy.
Exploring Hana Bay along its black sand, a result of eroded lava that washed ashore, leads to Hana pier on the east side with views of Hana town and Haleakala Mountain in the background. Even more interesting is a meander along Kaihalulu Beach with its red-sand beach and whilst very rocky in some areas there is a sheltered swimmable area amongst its jagged ruggedness.
PS. Experience our virtual challenges in real life - The Conqueror Adventures
The team at The Conqueror Challenges
https://www.theconqueror.events
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